sorry im not sure i follow? Quench?

 

something similar happened to me. i was in boost and as soon as i come to my vtec engage point, it fell on its face and made a terrible noise. this is after it has already been tuned. it happens for sometime and i went thru all the same **** you did until one day, it thru a code for vtec pressure switch. i went thru everything you did, and in the end it ended up throwinf that code. swapped the vtec unit from the head with a buddies and the problem went away and the code went away. but this is just what happened to me. does your car bog when the boost drops, or does the boost just drop and the car still runs strong. i dont thing its your charge piping since your boost reading would be the same everytime you drive it, or worsening, it sounds like something that is on the verge of going bad completely and right now its just letting you know that its pissed off

 

ok, well car pulls hard untill it gets to this particular point (not an exact rpm point, it varys) and the boost drops to zero, and the car falls on its face but obviously keeps driving, just no power what so ever.

 

Is your bov connected strait to the IM? in other words it is not sharing a vacuum with another vacuum dependent part? Maybe you have a POS tube fitting or maybe the vacuum line is slightly leaking at the connections on the IM or BOV and when you hit vacuum it gets "sucked" back into position. Sounds weird i know, but it's another point of view. Check vacuum line to WG as well. Good luck trying to get this.

 

all vacuum lines were changed and are properly installed, BOV to IM, and wastegate to the compressor scroll on turbo.

 

what we did was to completely bypass the BOV by putting a steel plate over the hole. When we did this the car pulled hard to redline and held boost. Took the plate off, and the car fell on its face about 6-7k.


Modified by Bseriescivic5 at 6:40 PM 6/21/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bseriescivic5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry im not sure i follow? Quench? </TD></TR></TABLE>

NGK's site explains it, put your netsearching pants on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bseriescivic5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what we did was to completely bypass the BOV by putting a steel plate over the hole. When we did this the car pulled hard to redline and held boost. Took the plate off, and the car fell on its face about 6-7k, so im thinking the BOV may be fucked, changing it to a greddy today, and i will report back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like it's the blow off valve then.

This same exact thing happend to my car. My car had the same symptoms. Turns out I had chipped one of my turbine blades just a hair, and the wheels were out of balance just enough so that when I hit 7 psi of boost the wheels would start making contact with the housings, and slow them down enough that the boost would push back through the compressor.

Took me for freakin ever to figure out what was happening. I tried everything you are going through right now, and finally pulled the turbo and found the chipped blade.

I hope your problem is a cheaper fix than mine was!

 

your running a realy small gap for you motor. id just leave it at the stock gap the plugs come with. .025. what plugs are you using? are you sure none of the couplers are ripped?

make one of these and report back

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you can use the valve stem as shown or an air fitting like i said.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

my builder explains that the gap is, fine and he ran it on his race car on the street with no problems....(he was at 9psi at the time) they are NGK 7's changing the BOV and then will go from there.

 

still waiting on a flange......tomarro will have more info

 

flange came in today, will have results tonight

 

BOV was not the problem,. pressure testing all charge piping today, will report back.

 

went through 70% of the charge piping with the pressure tester we made, (thanks guys for the idea) the BOV flange/welds were pretty bad leaking wise, patched them up, and permatexted the gaskett, but ran out of argon for the welder. Will get more tomarro and finish up, more info to come.

 

ok, charge pipes were completely went through and pressure tested and all leaks welded up. Changed gaskett between manifold and turbo, and inspected manifold for leaks, cracks, ect, and couldnt see anything. changed couplers, permatexted the **** outta the BOV gaskett where it meets the flange and charge pipe, and took for drive. Car feels better especially in the low end (stayed right with my buddy (60 trim t3/t04e) up to top of third, then car kinda fell off, right at VTEC, but still held boost.) I kinda feel like the car needs more timing? Vtec comes in but almost feels like the car gets slower (not getting faster at all).

 

im not tuning expert, but how much have you retarded the timeing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bseriescivic5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I kinda feel like the car needs more timing? Vtec comes in but almost feels like the car gets slower (not getting faster at all). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Given that you just sealed up a bunch of leaks in the charge piping I guarantee that more timing is the last thing you need.

Get the car tuned - as of fixing your charge piping, it isn't tuned.

 

Time for a re-tune!

 

maybe, may have more issues. The tune on the car was setup for a 60 trim t3/to4e and now I have a 20g which is smaller. Can this account for the problem?

 

the tune in general is not the problem, i know this for a fact. However it was originally tuned on the t3/to4e so i am suspecting this may explain some of the problem.

 

up for anymore ideas.....

 

turned the boost up to about 12psi, car started breaking up, looks like im back to square one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bseriescivic5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the tune in general is not the problem, i know this for a fact. However it was originally tuned on the t3/to4e so i am suspecting this may explain some of the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do you know the tune is in general is not the problem? using a different turbo wouldnt require a retune?

i know someone already asked but i didnt see an answer, what kind of timing are you running @12psi?

 

vtec is basically pointless in a turbo motor.. its not helping you . just disconnect the vtec and run with out it see how she does.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bseriescivic5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turned the boost up to about 12psi, car started breaking up, looks like im back to square one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How are you back to square one. The boost is holding now and your tune is CLEARLY off. Get it re-tuned dude!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93widebodyeghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vtec is basically pointless in a turbo motor.. its not helping you . just disconnect the vtec and run with out it see how she does.</TD></TR></TABLE>

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