ty521825

Hi All,

I picked up a used JRSC for my GSR. It was bought new last summer and was only used for about 2 months. 3000 miles at most. The guy made around 230whp with it. He purchased the stage 2 upgrade kit, which I also have. He didn't have it on the dyno after that, however he thinks he would be up around 250whp.

During this past winter I had my head port and polished, 3 way valve job, ferrea oversized valves, gsr cams, type r dual valve springs and retainers, greddy timing belt, skunk2 adj cam gears, jrsc manifold port matched to my head, 70mm skunk2 throttle body matched to the charger. stock usdm bottom end with jdm pistons and rods.

The kit was installed on my head by a tech who had installed two other JRSC kits. Everything seemed to be good. All vaccuum lines were hooked up properly. New gasket for between manifold and charger. The car is running off a chipped p06 ecu. It has been street tuned with Chrome. The car runs and drives fine. The idle goes up and down usually from 900-1500 rpms. Sometimes it will fix itself, other times it just surges up and down. This almost sounds like a boost/vaccuum leak to me, but we can't find any. The main problem is that the car will not build anymore than 3-4psi of boost.

All belts are tight. The pulleys are straight. No gaskets are leaking, and no vaccuum lines are leaking, new PVC valve and more or less a new JRSC kit. But it will not build anymore boost than 4psi. With the car turned off, we have pressurized the system by putting an end cap where the cold air intake would be. With a valve we have put pressure to the system and the boost gauge will go up to 10-20psi (depending on how long you pressurize). When you take the pressure off, the boost gauge goes to 0 slowly. It does not instantly drop and nor will it keep boost. We understand the boost is going to leak through the engine, but there are no significant air leaks that we can feel or hear.

We have used a Snap-on stethoscope style digital camera to look inside the throttle body at the by-pass valve to see if it is working properly. It seems to be working right. With the car off it is closed and sealed properly. When the car is running, the linkage on the outside moves as the throttle is touched.

We have contacted the tech at Jackson Racing, and he told us to check all gaskets and to replace the pvc. We have done so, but cannot find any issues. We have a suspicion it may be the by-pass valve, but we do not know of any tests to check this.

Does anybody have any idea what our problem could be? Any advice would be great.. We are running out of ideas of things to check.. Hopefully somebody has seen this before and can point us in the right direction.. I appreciate any advice.

Thanks.

bigislandc2

you should try to swap boost gauges out. I know that might not sound right but i've seen many times when it was it.
i think the stock boost is 4-5psi and the upgrade is 7psi boost pressure will drop when vtec engages with the crank pulley upgrade right and btc?

The bypass valve should be working ok. according to youre notes thats is how it functions.

ty521825

I have been told to swap boost guages as well from a few others. The weird thing is, when its in vaccuum it seems to be reading properly. Around 22-24 on the gauge at idle. Also the guy who has done my tuning recently tuned a JRSC B16A SIR. It made about 210 whp with the stock crank and charger pulleys. He is seeing full boost right around vtec which is at about 4500 rpms. It reads between 6-8psi. His car will break free in 1st and 2nd. Mine will not. The tuner says it doesn't feel like mine is making full boost at all. Not close to the B16. Thats why I don't think the boost guage is wrong. I will try that though and see if that helps at all.

Any other ideas? Thanks man..

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

Can you hear the blower for one ? Wineing ? The bypass valve when off should be closed at idle it will be open when u snap the throtle it should be closed. Check it for tightness.

If you can not hear the blower wine then something is not right.

ty521825

Charger whines like it is suppose to. Valve acts exactly how you described. Any other ideas?

bigislandc2

first just try that it wll read normal at vacuum you can try to take it off and use compress (compressor) air, and regulate the pressure and if the boost gauge register that is not the problem.

Also check that the belt is tight and not slipping. and vac. hose not kink or anything

ty521825

We have done everything you just listed. Belts are tight. No slipping for sure. We put pressure to the charger by capping the air intake tube off and putting a valve stem in the cap. We put compressed air to it and the boost guage will go up depending on how much air pressure you put up to it. So as far as we can tell the boost guage is working proper. Shows boost when there is pressure in the manifold and when the car is idling, it shows about 23 on the vaccuum side.

As far as we can tell there is no vaccuum hoses kinked or anything. We are going to pull the charger off and put new gaskets on it where needed. Make sure all hoses are correct again and hope for the best.

Thanks for the ideas. I thought somebody may have run into the same issue before and maybe there was a known quick fix.

Thanks again.

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

Hey man i may be coming to halifax and the cape area in a few weeks maybe i can swing by lol.

Your not seeing boost at all on the gauge have you checked on what engine managment your using?

ty521825

I see 2-3psi when the engine is warm. I have seen 6psi when the engine is relatively cold. By warm and cold I mean.. warm the heat guage is up to normal level.. cold the heat guage isn't up to level yet, but the car has idled for 5 mins and drove 1 km before any WOT driving. My guage is reading, and works fine. Its something else.

I am changing the belts tomorrow and making sure they are plenty tight. I will test it out and see if there is any change. I don't think thats the issue, but I want to check the cheapest easiest fixes first..

Crx Jimmy

when you tuned are you looking at the pressure the map reads? if so and its the stock map on the throttle body. make sure you have the JRSC map adapter installed so it reads boost post charger, not before or you will have problems. Also new gaskets are not necessary, just use hondabond. Also I would remove the pcv and just use a catch can I had problems because the JRSC pulls so much vacuum it was sucking oil right through the pcv into the manifold.

I CRX I

would you just plug the hole for the pcv hose?

Crx Jimmy

Yes plug the hole with a 1/8 npt fitting and just run the black box line to a catch can.

ty521825

But the PVC system isn't going to cause me to not build boost will it? The tech from Jackson Racing told me to change the PVC valve to a new one.. I did that, but it didn't change a thing. It still seems like a vaccuum leak, but through the pressure test, we couldn't find anything leaking..

ty521825

Talked to the tech at Jackson Racing again today.. He told me to check my Skunk2 throttle body. He said he has seen the aftermarket TB's leak by the throttle plate and the ports in the TB not be drilled correctly for them to flow properly. I am going to throw a stock GSR TB on tomorrow night and see if there is any difference.

bigislandc2

best way to check for leaks are with a smoke tester visual!

bigislandc2

but try to swap the gauge. according to youre story you state that boost pressure does not drop instantly. the gauge should be dropping fast if you release pressure from it

ty521825

Boost pressure does not drop instantly when pressure is applied from an outside source. I think this makes sense seeing how the valve is not opening or closing to lose the boost instantly. The engine is going to allow the boost to go through it around the valves and such. We are pretty sure the boost guage is not the problem. The car doesn't have the pull it is suppose to have. The boost guage reads the proper vaccuum at idle and when touching the throttle. Thats why we don't think there is a gasket leak between the manifold and head or between charger and manifold. If it is creating 20-24 inches of vaccuum than there shouldn't be an issue with it leaking. The guage is reading this properly so we don't see it being the guages problem.

We are going to do a few things to the car today. Do a compression test. Change the belts. And change over the Skunk2 Throttle body to a stock GSR one. After each test I'm going to drive it and see if there are any obvious differences. After these done I will borrow another boost guage just to make sure.

Thanks again for the input fellas.

ty521825

Changed the TB to stock GSR one last night. At first I thought it helped as I made 5-6psi of boost. I guess the car wasn't warm enough though. After driving it for about 20 mins of normal highway driving, I went WOT on a straight stretch and it still only made 2-3psi. Starting to get frustrated now..

I have a general question.. If my valves are too loose or too tight, will it affect my boost being built? and also, if my timing is off a little bit, will it affect my boost being built?

The reason I ask is my valves need to be adjusted for sure. After the rebuild, they haven't been touched for about 1000kms. Also, I have Skunk2 adjustable cam gears, and I have heard/seen them be out before..

Thanks again.

LA_HONDAS

well adjust your valves

I CRX I

just a suggestion but have you made sure your SC pulley has the key in it? maybe the pulley is slipping at higher rpms...

Crx Jimmy

are you running the stock gsr crank pulley or a ctr one?

ty521825

Running the Jackson Racing Stage 1 upgrade crank pulley. Got it with the supercharger kit..

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

If your valves are too tight yes u wil not build boost well. check them for clearence.

ty521825

Adjusted my valves today. Intake valves were almost all tight. Set them to proper clearances. Exhaust were mostly perfect. Still not building any boost. We did a compression test as well. Its not great at all. I'm running JDM pistons and rods in a USDM block. We are swapping my boost guage out as soon as I find another known good one to change. Will update when I know more info..

ty521825

Oh yeah and comp test results were... 125 on cyl 4, 160 on 3, 160 on 2 and 170 on 1...