Possibly a worn thrust washer would be my guess..

 

This could happen if the block over heated or some other spontaneous problems..but it's probably very rare..anyways im referring to a shift in the cylinder which would shift the piston in the bore making the small end of the rod ride against the one side of the piston and it could also **** the rod to one side making those bearings appear they way they are..just something to throw out there for you to think about..sorry to hear about your mishap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder if something clogged the oil passage to that particular bearing? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agreed, that would be my guess. Also dude, no two ways about it, that motor is gonna have to come back apart and that crank will have to be turned down. So you should get on that and take some more pics while inspecting further.

Also, this is kinda a long shot, but maybe that rod is slightly bent putting some weird load on one side of the bearing.

 

I just finished getting the motor out of the car. I'm about to go strip it down right now....

I'm taking the block to the local machine shop tomorrow morning to inspect the damage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I wonder if something clogged the oil passage to that particular bearing?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, he did find the end of a dipstick stuck in the oil pickup.

 

what crank is that? and what bearings are you using? i know that a gsr crank has smaller journals than si and ls.... so if you put si bearings in a gsr motor it would rub badly...gsr rods on a si crank give you a lot of play also

 

block is a b18a and im assuming the crank is also. I didn't assembly the block, but was told they are oem bearings.

 

well i assumed my crank was a gsr but ended up being an si... that gave my rods room to move side to side....check your stroke on the crank

 

Hmmm Well thats weird. I can vouch for the block thats for sure. I saw this thing runnin and it ran great right before it was tookin out.

 

I just got back from the machine shop and have come to a conclusion as to what has cause the problem.

The machinest said it was due to too tight of clearance between the wrist pin and small rod end, as well as too much clearance on the big rod end. The crank is no good due to the large ridge the rod wore into it, the rod is burnt badly, and the piston also needs to be replaced because of the scarring.

EDIT: Forgot to mention the machinest also said wrong bearing sizing could aided the damage as well as mabye a clog in the oil passage.

Pics of the crank:







nasty scarring















Modified by Blackack26 at 12:31 AM 3/3/2005

 

thats shitty man

 

So what is your recourse with who sold you the block? I would always be weary of anyone selling a barely used built motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerofdreams8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what is your recourse with who sold you the block? I would always be weary of anyone selling a barely used built motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Trying to work something out...

He said the block ran beautifully before he sold it, and I do believe him. He has plently of vouches and is respected. However it knocked the second it fired up.

I dont know if mabye something during shipping aided to this? mabye it was knocked real hard against the crank pulley? The pulley was chipped in a few places and it was packaged rather shitty.

 

I vouch for the fact it knocked when it was first started. Even though it did get quieter when it warmed up all we did was swap the blocks. It had plenty of oil.

 

FWIW, the pics on first page show #3 rod installed w/ bearing tang to intake and #4 rod tang to exhaust. Assume rod cap was installed correctly?