turbohf

PLEASE READ BEFORE RESPONDING

lets start with devastation:









01 ITR head... with Omni-Power retainers, Rocket Motorsports Gen1 springs (95lbs seat pressure, 265lbs @ 12mm). Crower 63402A cams (I-255*/E-248* duration @ .050" 12mm lift).
WAS NOT A KEEPER/RETAINER FAILURE

pretty sure the failure was caused from a slightly bent valve from an incident about 1000miles before. and the valve was weakened from flexing every time the valve opened and closed popping the ****** off...


now, i will be running pretty much the same setup as before... thats a B16A with forged bottom end and the same valvetrain/cams listed above. the motor will be reved just as high, 9500rpms... but probably not higher, even though i would like to. AND YES IT DOES MAKE POWER THAT HIGH


k, on to choosing valves.... [unless you have relevant questions on the setup that i missed?]

ITR: i have heard many (peoples opinion i trust) say that ITR valves are fine. people have made more power than me, reved higher, ran bigger cams, etc and have not had issues, other than bending them. and others that have said that i may be running springs with too much seat pressure for them. and "ITR intake valves are famous for failing with increased spring loading, as well as bouncing off seats in turbo applications"... not sure what that last part is suppose to mean?

PR3: i really dont care about the "extra flow" of the ITR valves, not really worth the hype to me. i ran them cuz they where in the head. i do have another set, but a set of PR3s also. are the intake valves gonna be stronger than the ITR valves? or im assuming that they are made just the same and its not gonna matter...

aftermarket: heard also from people i trust, that some are just ****, poor quality, etc. and that some if tapped by the piston will just break. so trying to find the right ones is tough. especially when trying to buy them now when comparing the quality from 2 years ago to now and vise versa...


im leaning towards running standard PR3s after having the machine shop check them over and giving them a clean bill of health...


THANKS FOR THE HELP!

mike93eh2

supertech valves

0morgan@synapse motorsport

deja vu lol. same thing happened on my buddies motor. ITR valves as well. was a stock itr head actually. the stock itr valves are lightweight and typically wont cause a problem, but not the strongest available. def go aftermarket.

quicksilver1689

yeah honda made them lightweight so they would'nt require stiff springs that would contribute to wear/fatigue. Ferrea makes good stuff, look into some of there valves or supertech cant go wrong.

turbohf

crowder13

wow man that sucks and holy ****. my buddys stock itr did the same thing. sounds just like ur story except it wasnt boosted. he overrevved it about 1000 miles before he dropped a valve

Blackturbohatch

rev or ferrea

turbohf

i havent seen anyone run REV valves in a long *** time? never really hear anything about them...

i was told not to run Ferrea Valves by an engine builder... and to run SuperTech valves, actually everyone seems to be saying to run them...

boostedcivicsir

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blackturbohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rev or ferrea </TD></TR></TABLE>

rev last year old setup,
ferrea this years setup.
both are great.

TheThiefTheKnife'NTheGun

I use Ferrea, Dave at HeadGames suggested them to me and I definatly trust him

Garcia-Racing

We run supertech inconel valves. Gotta love 'em.

tepid1

Manley valves here.

HEAD

when running a stock valve lock with a ti retainer, I would never rule out that it was a probable cause of failure..especially because I doubt the valve would last 1000 miles bent, or that you wouldn't have noticed the power difference in it, if it were the case. even though, a turbo will sometimes mask the effects..the stock Honda lock is a semi nice piece but it is stamped steel, and not very accurately made..on the other hand, the ti retainer your using is accurate within a tenth of a thousandths. Combine the two and what do you really have? You have a valve that could very well pull through the retainer, and kiss the piston. It won't take long after that bending and hitting for the valve to come apart as you have. And a stock valve definitely wouldn't last that long under those conditions, the material is just not good enough, I am not stating that is what happened...just what we have seen.

If you go with the Manley lock, with any valvetrain you use, you have a better chance of nothing going wrong. It is a good, and accurate duplicate of the stock lock. The Ferrea lock and retainer is completely different, as it is longer in length and takes some of the stresses of high spring pressures of the tip of the valve.

I won't go as far as saying I would put a particular brand in your head, but I will say you should go with a good aftermarket valve..one that bends and does not break like stock.

turbohf

ALL 16 valve springs/retainers/locks look EXACTLY the same as the day i put that head on the motor. all the springs had tension on them, and all where the same...

I WILL BE REUSING THOSE ITEMS ALONG WITH MY CAMS....

HiProfile

I'd go with inconel before SS any day, and almost regardless of the company. Inconel retains almost its full strength until its red-hot, and most SS alloys are much more brittle to begin with, and loose strength once your egt's get too high. Regular steels are less brittle, but are not as strong and loose strength with high egt's too. The problem with inconel is the price - the scrap chips can be worth more than new stainless.

turbohf

yeah the inconel are like 26bucks each vs the Nitrided ones at 16bucks each.... thats 80bucks more for the 8 exhausts...

then 16bucks each for Nitrided intakes... probably go with dished cuz im sure they are a hair lighter than the flats...

Nitrided over Chrome right?


&lt;~me

mike93eh2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbohf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Nitrided over Chrome right?


</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes!

turbohf

good i dont like shinny parts


also...gonna pass on the inconel valves... they sound nice, but for my power level and budget, i really dont see the need...

0xenocron

Supertech or Ferrea Valves...

Although, I wouldnt waste any more money if you are going to continue running that chinese valvetrain you have in there now.

Just my opinion

riceburner700

supertech

turbohf

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Supertech or Ferrea Valves...

Although, I wouldnt waste any more money if you are going to continue running that chinese valvetrain you have in there now.

Just my opinion </TD></TR></TABLE>
Chris you sell SuperTech? lmk on a price for the valves...

whats wrong with my valvetrain? Rocket Motorsports springs and Omni-Power retainers...

JoePSI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbohf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i havent seen anyone run REV valves in a long *** time? never really hear anything about them...</TD></TR></TABLE>

My bro runs REV valves, hes never had a sour word to say about them.

I run a full supertech valvetrain, ti retainers, SS valves, supertech stage 2 springs/retainers (b16).

turbohf

was just talking with another guy about my valve failure here and he is still suggesting a "valve float" then i remembered something...



those are my cams... they seem to have a pretty steep ram to them... may have that have been a cause????