Help! catch can drain back thoughts.
longest project ever
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
my Accord already came with a pretty decent oil separator factory, so this is just an additional one, I ran two sets of holes at angles to each other, so vapors dont have a straight shot, the top of this will get filled with baffling material. vapors from the factory separator come up from the bottom, and up a tube inside of the can, condensed out water and crap collects in the bottom. vacuum from the PCV valve and collector is pulled at the top, since PCV valves are weak, and can back flow, I ran a positive check valve in line with the pcv, this will stop a vacuum at the header collector, from pulling mixture backwards into the exhaust, under low manifold vacuum. 





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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Maybe in California they require a sealed evaporative system but here in Georgia I've taken full blown race cars through emissions tests with 0 issues lol.
longest project ever
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,494
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
no emissions here, even in Atlanta it's well beyond the 25 year mark, I designed this one to keep a negative pressure on the crankcase as much as possible, plus keep garbage out of the intake, pcv works best at idle, it's still important to keep it, as it helps pull all that garbage out of your engine, keeps it nice and clean inside, I don't know if you've ever seen the inside of an engine that used a road draft tube before PCV, nasty as hell
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
yea they get pretty nasty.
I've managed to keep the inside of my motors 100% new looking by running a non drainback can. the sr that came out of the drift car still looked brand new inside, no staining whatsoever.
the motor I'm building is probably going to get a 3 scavenge section dry sump oiling system so I'll have adequate crankcase vacuum and I'll simply build a breather can for the oil tank like I did on the Z06, should keep any oil contaminants out of the oil
I've managed to keep the inside of my motors 100% new looking by running a non drainback can. the sr that came out of the drift car still looked brand new inside, no staining whatsoever.
the motor I'm building is probably going to get a 3 scavenge section dry sump oiling system so I'll have adequate crankcase vacuum and I'll simply build a breather can for the oil tank like I did on the Z06, should keep any oil contaminants out of the oil
Thanks for all the guys! So my plan here is to get somthing like this..
Then run no drain back system. Safty wire the drain tee. Run the valve cover port to my intake Pre-Turbo. Sorta like factory system. i also plan on runing a rag or somthing incase he does decide to come out the catch can top breather port. What do you think? i can make a small diagram when i get home from work. Thanks agian.
Then run no drain back system. Safty wire the drain tee. Run the valve cover port to my intake Pre-Turbo. Sorta like factory system. i also plan on runing a rag or somthing incase he does decide to come out the catch can top breather port. What do you think? i can make a small diagram when i get home from work. Thanks agian.
longest project ever
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,494
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
I'm not so worried about the plugs leaking as I bought new oem washers and applied some liquid plumbing sealant. I'm worried that the it might not breath correct. Only because when I search I only come up with people's engines Bay being puked on.
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
that's only with the prelude fittings
and all of those people were using a catch can that wasn't baffled... a baffled catch can is needed because it gives time for the oil to separate from air
and all of those people were using a catch can that wasn't baffled... a baffled catch can is needed because it gives time for the oil to separate from air
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