sshaikh01

I'm in the market for a new DD and looking for a GSR to be specific.
I found a 2001 GSR with stock internals. The guy has a Garrett T70 A.R70/63 t3/t4 turbo on it.

I'm new to the FI world. What is the size and specs of this turbo can someone please assist.

also he mentioned that car smokes a little from the exhaust after turbo was put in. what should i look for when inspecting the car.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

the aspect ratio of the housings doesn't mean anything... there's an endless combination of wheels that would fit in those housings.

we need pictures, etc.

if it smokes it's likely the turbo has a seal issue, or the motor could have a bad valve stem seal or the rings/pistons are damaged

again, we need pictures and specifics, like a full parts list, power level, etc.

I would suggest you have someone do a leakdown and compression test to gauge the health of the motor

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

the aspect ratio of the housings doesn't mean anything... there's an endless combination of wheels that would fit in those housings.

we need pictures, etc.

if it smokes it's likely the turbo has a seal issue, or the motor could have a bad valve stem seal or the rings/pistons are damaged

again, we need pictures and specifics, like a full parts list, power level, etc.

I would suggest you have someone do a leakdown and compression test to gauge the health of the motor

sshaikh01

He claims he just slapped a turbo on few months ago, and still is tuning the car, so i don't have any power levels or dyno sheets.

Stock motor. here is what i have from a specs aspect.
Turbo
Garrett T70 A.R70/63 t3/t4 turbo
Greddy type rs blowoff
Turbodynamic log manifold
Tial wastegate
3" charge piping

sshaikh01

Not sure if you can tell much. But here are the pics that i have.

sshaikh01

The owner bought the turbo second hand

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

again, what you are telling us about the turbo doesn't mean ****.

that turbo could be anything and without specific wheel measurements we don't know what it is, I can tell you that if that motor is on stock internals then that turbo is totally overkill

what is he using for engine management? bigger injectors, fuel pump, etc?

Uprgaded clutch?

that manifold looks rough and you can clearly see rust on most engine components

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

again, what you are telling us about the turbo doesn't mean ****.

that turbo could be anything and without specific wheel measurements we don't know what it is, I can tell you that if that motor is on stock internals then that turbo is totally overkill

what is he using for engine management? bigger injectors, fuel pump, etc?

Uprgaded clutch?

that manifold looks rough and you can clearly see rust on most engine components

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

also not running a filter on the turbo makes me nervous. it doesn't take much to damage a compressor wheel and even the residual dirt and dust floating in the air will wear down a compressor wheel due to the sand blasting effect.

It doesn't sound like this guy even knows what he owns, I would honestly look for a good condition chassi and do the modifications myself, that way I know quality parts are used and everything is done properly

LTCxD2B

Looks like a laggy death trap of money honestly .... If ur set on getting it just sell the turbo set up keep the pipes and save for something u have researched

sshaikh01

Thanks I now learned that there is filter for turbos. ( i swear I've seen everyone run their turbos without one)

Thanks again.
One of the questions i'll bring up would be turbo engine mgmt. system.

going to see/drive/inspect car tomorrow any key questions i should be asking, and car's behavioral things i should notice while driving/reving, idling?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the wiring harness isn't hacked up, and vacuum, boost, and coolant lines are all routed sensibly. Make sure there is a turbo timer, and it's set and being used. Make sure the CEL works, and isn't on. Make sure it was properly tuned. Make sure there is a properly sized oil restrictor on the feed line. Do a compression test, and make sure all cylinders are above 160 and within 5PSI of each other. Make sure the transmission goes into each gear smoothly. Ask what kind of clutch is in the car. Make sure the idle doesn't fluctuate, and sits near as possible to 750 RPM.

These are all fairly basic things. You're edging dangerously close to "If you have to ask, you shouldn't do it".

sshaikh01

I'm comfortable with N/A motors.

Just not sure about the tell tales of turbos. Specially this one since owner openly claims the motor smokes when he gets on boost.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That could be any number of things, which is why you should bring a compression tester with you and use it. Regardless of the results, though, you should expect to spend at least $500 fixing that problem, and it should definitely be fixed sooner rather than later.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Like I said it could be the motor or the turbo

if it's the motor walk away, that isn't a cheap repair, especially if he's asking top dollar for a shitbox

a typical turbo rebuild is at least 250 with another 80 for a rebalance and that assumes that no components are damaged.

that turbo is more than likely somewhere in the at least 60mm inducer and 82mm exducer range on the compressor wheel. which makes it entirely too laggy for a sub 400hp (probably more like sub 300hp) stock internal car.

honestly I wouldn't even waste my time looking at it unless it's dirt cheap. between the corroded engine components, the unknow size turbo, unknown condition turbo and motor, the fact that it smokes, the fact you don't know what causes it to smoke, the fact you don't know what ems he's using, the general tossed together look of the car, and the fact that he's beating on an untuned turbo motor would make me walk away immediately

unless it was dirt cheap and I could sell most of the stuff to fund a proper rebuild.

Schister66

x2

Unless its a killer deal, I wouldn't buy someone else's mess. Its only going to be a frustrating money pit