I have been doing my research and have come up with a few options. I just wanted to get some good advice. I need to make at least 400 whp on 94. I am not worred about the price either. need to run solid 10's in my hf rex.

What I have to start with:
LS block (GE sleeves not sure what bore to choose)
b16a2 head
crower valves, retainers
eagle rods
skunk 2 cam gears

The set up I was thinking:
ITR cams
JG intake mani
good head port job
84 or 85mm JE pistons around 10.1?
rotating assembly ballanced
gsr girdle,oil pump and water
turbonetics 62-1 stage 5 wheel
exhaust manifold (not sure on)
full 3" dp and exhaust no cat
70mm tb with 3" IC pipe
255 walbro
1000cc injectors ( I know I dont need 1000 but they are a few bucs more)
35mm wastegate
35mm BOV

Well there it is, tell me what you guys thing. Tuned on crome or uberdata.

 

sounds like yer thinking the right parts do some research on here look at some peoples dynos. why nbot make this power an 91 or 92 octane??? ive seen dynos of people making over 500whp pn pump gas 400 is kid **** anymore

 

94 is pump gas where I live. How much hp are you putting out? Do you like that hytech manifold? I had a hytech exhaust on a 99 gsr that I just sold it was some good ****.

 

What kind of BOV and WG were you looking at? I rarely ever see anybody using the 35mm WG nowadays. IMO it would be better to just go with a 38mm WG since they are a lot easier to find. Also you should check out the TIAL 50mm BOV.

Since you have a CRX you have to be careful with what turbo manifold you go with. You have to match up your manifold, turbo, radiator and crossmember very carefully. Check out the link for the 4 page turbo EF thread in the EF forum. People have pics along with what manifold, turbo, radiator and crossmember they have. The easiest thing to do is get a Full-Race traction bar, the PWR shorty radiator they make for CRX's. Then you just have to find a manifold that will work.

Do you know if you want to run the compressor towards the driver or passenger side?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1412529

 

your right the wg/bov is 38mm. I like the cold side on the left, it makes it easy to run the ic pipe to the cooler. thanks for the fitment info I will check it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nitroice40 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">94 is pump gas where I live. How much hp are you putting out? Do you like that hytech manifold? I had a hytech exhaust on a 99 gsr that I just sold it was some good ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i love it and i havent gotten it dyno'd yet it still needs a few more toys ill have it dyno tuned and back to me by about mid-feb ill be sure to post dyno sheets in FI section as soon as i get it back. my buddy has teh hytech exhaust on his 96 gsr its so clean i love it and its so quiet too nice for those looking for high flow low noise guys buts its $$$$$

 

How much hp do you think I can squeez out of a t3/t4 to4e? I have it now, with all the rest of the things I have listed.

 

i suggest 9:1 compression honestly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickromeo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i suggest 9:1 compression honestly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Second that. 10:1 is the stock compression of a GSR.

 

=

 

i say get at least 40 mm wastegate for no boost creep, bore i say 81mm or 81.5 for less traction issues so u can get a torque curve similar to all motor cars why do u think they get into the 10s with such little power, also stiffer suspension ir u going to be draging, after market crossmember and sticky tires my 2 cents

 

I thought it would be a bit easier with a bigger bore to make power. But what you said about the traction makes sense. The car has junk2 coilovers on it now.What kinda drag springs do you think will help my 60fts? Definately aftermarket traction bars, and I have a set of 20x8x13 slicks (to small I think) and a set of 225 50 15 bfg drag ( they might not fit). What do you think!

 

 

drop the compresson if u plan on 400+ on pump. you can stay with the 84mm bore and just work more on traction. it seems alot of guys are more conserned with power then puttin the power they have to the ground. get an lsd and maybe some omni coilovers.

 

I was talking to Tom from camp1320, ( that dude is the ****). he said to stay with a 81 or 81.5 bore and I will get better traction and be at the same power less tq. He said I had to use traction bars, 24.5x8x13 slicks and 1000lb coilovers omni in the rear.

 

don't need nearly that much **** for 400 whp
good luck on your build

 

traction bars, lsd, omni coilovers are your friend. also a nice set of slicks...

 

Man you are running a VERY light car. With 500 whp you should be able to hit your 10's mark easily with limited traction. Save your money on **** like the head porting and 70 mm tb and invest in hondata 300 or aem ems. If you havent already bought the 62-1 I would seriously consider going to talk to Ken at cheapturbos.com/phoenixturbo.com and see about getting a blowzilla. I have it on my ls/vtec turbo tuned on aem and let me tell you its the **** for $900 shipped! T3 .63 hotside and gt40 compressor housing with gt35 wheels, bad *** turbo for the money! Definitely get the 1000 cc injectors also, trust me, you'll want to run higher boost eventually and you'll have the fuel ready if you need it. I already made that mistake buying 750ccs. Also, just stick with the 81.5mm bore cuz you might be needed to bore it out later and you'll have plenty of room to grow..........good luck with your setup!
Ryan

 

how much are you laying down? Whats your setup? the only things I am unsure about arre the fuel pump (walbro 255 or sump), wastegate and bov size (38 or 40+) and exhaust manifold

 

man if you live in pittsburg do not buy aem or hondata, neptune all the way
http://www.evans-tuning.com

 

if you want good pistons do go with JE the rings suck get some 84mm 9.1 CP pistons that is safer for you on pump gas and if your tune is not that great almost same price and way better if you dont know how much it is to get your rotating assembly ballanced then you dont want to and if you are planing on useing all GSR stuff anyway you wont need to do any of that no ballance here and shift at 10 grand at track. And the 3'' IC pipeing sounds like a good thaing but not for what you want to do go with 2.5'' or 2.75'' that way you get good boost PSI and faster spool and the head porting is not needed ether to get you to the 400hp range and the eagle rods well i dont know if you would want to take thouse any higher then 400hp or you will have a nice hole in the block but ever thing looks good to go

 

I read that eagles can handle 600hp.

I am going to get it tuned at Evens when I get it done. Is neptune a free program like uberdata or crome? How do you like it?

 

neptune is 600 bucks for the program and the tuning. how do I like it? I love it, my car drives like its stock out of boost and in boost its nuts. 330 to the wheels on stock block imagine what you will do

 

what is your setup?

 

neukin manifold,sc61, gsr block,b16 head,550 injectors 10 psi