OK guys I got my car out of the shop and it is still overheating. At idle it gets hot real quick and on the dyno at load it gets really hot before we can even do 1 pull. New water pump, no leaks so all I can think of is my radiator.

I bought a used Fluidyne couple years ago before I boosted and not sure of the conditoin of it.

Question:

1. Should I get a new KOYO half radiator for my EG hatch?
2. Just be safe and get a full size and take out my AC?

I see a bunch of cars running with half size even with a BB GT3076R and have no heating issues. We can't figure it out.

The radiator is the last thing. Replace thermostat also. Have a S fan that most people run in this forum too!!!

What do you think I should do? Half size or be sure with a full size?

 

Other info.:

New thermostat Jackson Racing

Bleed the coolant for 25 mins. and still getting huge air pockets.

NO milky stuff in oil, so not blown head gasket. It is brand new fresh built motor.

Anyone???

 

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Bleed the coolant for 25 mins. and still getting huge air pockets.
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Get all the air out, or find out why you can't get it out.

 

just cause u dont have milky oil doesnt mean u wont have a blown head gasket.
If u cant get all the air out its probably cause u have air getting into the cooling system through the combustion chamber from a blown headgasket. Is ur cooling fan turning on??

 

cooling fan is turning on. We ran it for 30 mins. to get all the air pockets out. The motor is fresh built with 0 miles on it with a new cometic head gasket. I was told ARP head studs were torqued 70 (Is that right?).

So don't get a new radiator yet until I can determine if it is the head gasket even though it is brand new.

 

I have a gt3076r full race setup in my dc2. I have the same problem... I have a PWR half size radiator, good fan that runs constant, jackson low temp thermo, and I run 100% water w/ water wetter. The car is ok at night but in this 90-100F temp if I sit at a light the gauge goes from right over a 1/4 on stock gauge to halfway. If you cut on the heater then it goes back down. So i'm stuck driving with the heat on in 100F weather...

I'm thinking about switching to a stock thickness full size integra radiator. I have a fullrace ac compatable manifold so I have major clearance issues with my wastegate and a full size radiator. I have my turbo water return line going into the pwr radiator so I have to figure out how i'm going to reroute my water return line before i make the swap.

My buddy with a boosted ITR had the same problems with a half sized radiator if he didn't ride with his bumper off. He switched to a full size and said he ran 180-190F even in traffic.

 

Thanks for the info. I hope that works. I will probably just buy it since my radiator is old already. I might get rid of the AC, so I don't have to do the heater on trick to bring temps. down. I hope that gets rid of the bubbles or else it is truly my head gasket even if it is new.

 

yea, ive thought about ditching my condensor/compressor for airflow as well. I paid extra for the ac compatable manifold so I haven't given up on ac just yet.

 

When you guys say 180-190F, are you guys taking the temps after the radiator or before?

I have a mechanical gauge that reads off the upper radiator hose, so my temps are quite a bit higher.

 

I'm talking about the temp that the factory ECT sensor reads

 

yeah u should just try and get a new radiator. since it is old it might be clogged or corroded from time or previous owner. hope that works for u!