I have a LS/Vtec with a GSR head, sleeved LS block running 10:1, been on low boost at 13 pounds. also running ARP head studs.

noticed a small coolant leak on the distributor side, right where the head and block meet... turned into a bigger leak. Thought it might have been the HG but some of the head studs had pulled out the thread from the block....

has any one seen this before? i guess i have to put in time-serts and get new head studs

 

how tight were the studs originally threaded into the block? were the holes in the block clean or was there oil/coolant in them? how tight did you torque the head down too?

find a new block or find a time-sert kit and repair it.

 

Yea remember when putting studs in, you only hand tighten them into the block i believe. I know you don't superman them into the block, then torque the nuts to 80lbs i think, it's been a while. Looks like your gonna have to heli coil it, or the serts like you said. Can't say Ive seen it before, sounds like the studs themselves got torqued into the block

 

yeah I am def trying to not get a new block since this block is built.... i do not know how tight everything was torqued, but it was put together by people who know what they are doing... atleast i hoped so

but time-serts should hold fine?

 

or go with 1/2 studs

 

you'd be surprised. out of all the years ive been doing it that has never happened to me. Ive seen it happen before though

 

The proper way is First and foremost, make SURE that the holes are clean and clear of debri. The best way to do this is to spray brake cleaner or intake/carb cleaner down the holes, and use compressed air to blow out the cleaner and debri. Make sure to cover up the cylinders so that crap doesn't get into them though. Make sure to lube up both sides of the studs w/ ARP moly lube (which is included with their bolts), or with 30w oil (Not 10w30, but solid 30w), if you bought them used. Tighten the ARP head studs all the way down with an allen wrench, then back them off about a 1/4 turn (ARP recommends they are hand tight, and this is equivalent). But, beware. When they say handtight, they do not mean tighten them down with your hand. This is just silly because you can't thread the studs all the way down by hand; they won't all be even. What they mean is, thread the studs all the way to the bottom, but do not have the bolts applying any pressure to the block (no torque). You can also use the double nut technique, which is just putting two nuts on the stud, and using a socket or box wrench to tighten the upper nut. This will turn the stud because the lower nut will hold the upper nut in place. This will ensure that they are all at equal height. Do NOT torque the studs INTO the block. This will negate the whole reason you are using studs instead of bolts in the first place. The advantage of studs is this...the block will be "pulling" down on the head, which is the opposite force of combustion, as opposed to the head "pulling" up on the block, in the same direction as combustion, which is what the stock head bolts do. The studs help create a better seal.

 

lol @ pulling

 

Like said above if it actually did pull the threads out of the block, have timesert's installed and put it back together.

 

I find that if you don't wiggle the studs when you thread them into the block, it builds an air pocket at the bottom of the cavity that prevents the stud threading in to the bottom easily. After a few cycles the air manages to leak out or depressurize somewhat and bam, instantly you have no torque on one or more of your head studs.

You're also supposed to retorque the ARPs after a few heat cycles. I'm guessing the reason I stated is why.

 

heli-coil, or just use 1/2 inch headstuds

 

I have seen this happen and unfortunately experienced it as well personally.

 

time sert or bust.

 

yeah i am going to get time certs for all of the head studs, should prob get new head studs too. I am pretty sure they did not stretch but just to be safe.

 

QFT. I've seen some wild **** from "reputable" people too.

Best cleaning method is to take a nylon "pipe cleaner" brush (twirled bristles, like a toilet brush), cut off the handle, and put it into a drill. Fill the hole with degrease, twirl it around (lefthand), then do it with brake kleen. You will not get a cleaner hole w/o sonic cleaning. I also do the wiggle thing to remove that air. I got the brush at ACE Hardware.

Oddly enough, when I've put ARP's in SOHC's, I've never had an issue with retorquing. All remained at the original torque value.

 

I used one from the gun aisle....45acp I think. Cut it off like ^^^^ and put it in my reversible drill with brakleen. It was brass and I don't think hurt the threads but really scours 'em out. I don't think I used it on my deck, but my mains. Head threads weren't nearly as dirty, just used brakleen and chased repeatedly with a head bolt and air.
Saw some Helicoils put in a guys LsVtec tonite (2). Put the studs back in and torqued. He stopped @70 ft.lbs. What do u guys torque them to?

 

so put the engine on the machine to do the install for time certs they need to take it all apart?? .... so now i am stuck rebuilding?