i am going to swap my head for a new one because i have a few problems with mine- (both heads are b18c1)

i need to replace two bent exhaust valves from the head i am getting so the question is:

1) should i just buy 2 oem valves and all new stem seals and swap heads
2) should i P&P while i have it off
3) should i go with Ferrea parts all around?

please help with any advice
thanks

 

the Ferrea 6000 series valves are cheaper than OEM and are made of better material. As far as what else to do with the head that would depend on how much money you got.

 

well in essence the Ferrea are not cheaper than oem - BECAUSE

I have to either replace all the valves with ferrea (about 350+) or i can just replace TWO (2) of the bent exhaust valves with oem stuff.

the fact is that the car is boosted but not sleeved because i didnt have the money at the time. I am running forged internals though.

currently using the greddy kit but i plan to make real power after this head work so ill be getting an inline pro mani, t3/t04e with a TiAL WG or maybe HKS
i want to break 350whp on the dyno but use only about 250 for street use--

with that said-- what kind of headwork is needed here---

 

you dont really need any headwork for your goals. ide just replace the bent valves if your on a budget. if you have 1500+ then you can do the head if you want.

Landon

 

what about the valve guides? if out of spec they can ruin the seals

 

well yea when replacing valves the guides should be done also.

Landon

 

yes you are correct if i did build the head with OEM valves- i would replace the valve guides and ALL stem seals because the head has been sitting a while- i cant trust those seals to still be good.

so now again im second guessing.
go with ferrea guides and valves too or oem-- i plan on building the head myself then having it checked by a machine shop to make sure its not warped etc before i put it on.

 

You don't need to replace the guides just because you put valves in a head, if there not broke or worn leave them if you don't have the money. If you need just a few stock valves to fix your head I could scrounge some up around here.

 

that would be great- what condition or how many miles would they have-- good stuuf i guess other wise you wouldnt offer right??

thanks man-- how about any idea about the seals?
thanks again.

 

would there be a difference in me switching from GSR internals in a GSR head to ITR valves, springs, and retainers with FI

if i plan to run say 17psi


i mention this on the basis that OEM is better quality and longlasting than aftermarket ferrea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95gsrturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i mention this on the basis that OEM is better quality and longlasting than aftermarket ferrea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oem is not better than ferrea, and for the money, unless your getting a good deal, ferrea is a WAY better buy.

Landon

 

well, the valves would be reconditioned so the milage would be not a issue and I will sell them cheap. As far as seals, to me if it's apart why not replace them at that time.
If your going to spend money and replace everything you should go with Ferrea 6000 series valves, way cheaper then OEM and a crap load better. For instance, if your piston where to really tag one of the valves because ( and I have seen this alot in FI apps. where guys don't pay attention to spring pressures) the valve pulls throught the retainer, the stock valve will break where the Ferrea will only bend.
And they probably have one of the best valve spring packages on the market.

 

good lord thats the worst chamber ive ever seen.

when do stock springs in FI pose an issue?

 

so consensus is that i should spend the money and get ferrea 6000 valves and guides and retainers... but ive read that these need to be changed out more often because these valves were not meant for long term use...especially if they are titanium.

funds are an issue because i am still in school but i would rather charge it and only have to do it once than have to repeat later on down the line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HEAD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> For instance, if your piston where to really tag one of the valves because ( and I have seen this alot in FI apps. where guys don't pay attention to spring pressures) the valve pulls throught the retainer, the stock valve will break where the Ferrea will only bend.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

true but keep in mind that only happens when you over rev or raise stock redline. A stock valve snapped on me when I was only at 240 hp but hit 9500 rpm (power shifting and no rev limiter at the time, own me ). Ive been 315 hp for a year on a stock valve train and havent passed 8500 rpm yet. So far no problems.


Modified by Turbo Chris at 7:05 PM 5/15/2004

 

your not buying a Ti valve, it's a steel valve. If it were a Ti valve it would be $45 a valve and you couldn't run them on the street-at all.