I have a 95 gsr turbo. I cracked a sleeve in Feb when turboed the stock block with almost 200k miles.
sent the block off to Golden Eagle for a engine build. head was sent to Laskey for the 3 angle and supertech special
put everything together in July and tuned in July also. after driving the car for about 100 miles it started overheating, b/c coolant was going to the oil pan.
sent block to golden eagle to get it checked and everything was ok
sent head to machine shop to get pressure tested, its ok

recieved my block back last week and installed everything
pulled a vacuum on the cooling system after putting engine together (with ARP headstuds and GE 84mm gasket) and did not drop vacumm at all (over 20 min)

test drove car today and same ****!!!
coolant level low and oil level high
no sludge, clear as day "oil"

head was staigtedged and was straight, new dowels, new head gasket, torqued the head 25, 52, 80 ft/lbs

please help! any ideas welcome. I pulled a vacumm and it held, I dont get it
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Modified by mangina at 4:31 PM 11/1/2008


Modified by mangina at 4:14 PM 11/3/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mangina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 95 gsr turbo. I cracked a sleeve in Feb when turboed the stock block with almost 200k miles.
sent the block off to Golden Eagle for a engine build. head was sent to Laskey for the 3 angle and supertech special
put everything together in July and tuned in July also. after driving the car for about 100 miles it started overheating, b/c coolant was going to the oil pan.
sent block to golden eagle to get it checked and everything was ok
sent head to machine shop to get pressure tested, its ok

recieved my block back last week and installed everything
pulled a vacuum on the cooling system after putting engine together (with ARP headstuds and GE 84mm gasket) and did not drop vacumm at all (over 20 min)

test drove car today and same ****!!!
coolant level low and oil level high
no sludge, clear as day "oil"

head was staigtedged and was straight, new dowels, new head gasket, torqued the head 25, 52, 80 ft/lbs

please help! any ideas welcome. I pulled a vacumm and it held, I dont get it
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use a block tester to check the cooling system for combustion gases. If that comes back + then you know for sure you have an issue. If you mix oil and water, I have yet to see it NOT turn the oil to a milky color... You clearly mentioned your oil is not turning milky. Could be possible to have a slight crack in something that is holding when cold and leaking down when warm also. I would run the car to normal operating temperature (don't overheat it, just warm it up) and then pressure check the cooling system as well.

 

I will try the block tester

still dont know why oil stays so clean either
the oil level has gone up about 1/2 qt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mangina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will try the block tester

still dont know why oil stays so clean either
the oil level has gone up about 1/2 qt
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bring it to operating temp and test the cooling system again.

 

will borrow a pressure tester tomorrow
and test.
thanks for your help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mangina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will borrow a pressure tester tomorrow
and test.
thanks for your help</TD></TR></TABLE>

Kind of a "quick and dirty" way to test the pressure also is to warm the car up with the cap on. You can squeeze the top hose and tell if there is pressure in the system. Although this method isn't nearly as good as the pressure tester itself, it will allow you to verify that the system has reached pressure and also to check if it bleeds off in a realtively quick fashion as well.

 

Could coolant be draining from your turbo to your oil pan. is that the oil feed on top?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by megomaniac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could coolant be draining from your turbo to your oil pan. is that the oil feed on top?</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^^^good call

OP. where is that black line on the VC going? where is your oil feed?

 

the black hose is a coolant line.

the oil feed is the braided line

I had the water lines on the turbo when I vacuum tested the system.

I will just pressure test the cooling system when hot and see what happens
I also added some dye to the coolant to see if I get the "glowing oil"

 

Is there any coolant in the catch can? Does your block have that water oil cooler on the back like my h22? just throw'n some stuff out there, don't give up,
hey, i just spotted you head gasket, I've read that copper ones are prone to leakage. is it copper? I've been told the stock one is really good.

 

headgasket is stock bored to 84mm w/copper spray.
I pressure tested the oil cooler while it was out and it held pressure for about 5min
and vacuum tested with the whole sys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mangina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">headgasket is stock bored to 84mm w/copper spray.
I pressure tested the oil cooler while it was out and it held pressure for about 5min
and vacuum tested with the whole sys.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I still dont understand why everyone feels the need to add copperspray to headgaskets. Its just something more to have to clean off the block/head when you take it apart. I've built over 20 setups and to date NEVER had a headgasket failure.

 

just went with the GE instructions

it does make a mess tho

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mangina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just went with the GE instructions

it does make a mess tho</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you try re testing the cooling system at operting temp again?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

BARS LEAK. That has a possibility of fixing you issue, even if it might not be the block/sleeve seal that's the issue.

The copper spray only helps if your head is warped to the point of almost not working. The black coating on the top/bottom layers is a special graphite or rubber compound that helps seal like hylomar.

 

Do a leak down test once the engine has reached operating temperature.

This will definately rule out mating surface problems.


Hector

 

I hate my car too. I dont have any technical input, but i feel your pain when you run into problems. I hope you get it resolved

 

so you have coolant going into ur turbo but you have a oil return line to the pan. is it water or oil cooled turbo? also do you have a oil cooler like inbetween ur filter and block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91(si)hatchey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you have coolant going into ur turbo but you have a oil return line to the pan. is it water or oil cooled turbo? also do you have a oil cooler like inbetween ur filter and block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most likely its oil AND water cooled. I don't know of any ball bearing turbos that aren't..

 

I had a similar issue a couple months ago. I hope you get it figured out. mine I think had something to do with my block not sealing but oh well it's been great since, so hope to see this fixed.

 

will check today when I get to the shop.

and will report.

bars leak sounds tempting too

 

try bypassing the coolant lines going to your turbo by looping them together and running the car(eliminating the turbo as an issue). was the radiator, heater core ever cleaned after the last bad headgasket ?(could disrupt flow and ad to the hot issue) does the cooling fan work good or push air the right way? if its on all the time and/or spinning the wrong way it wont let any air to your radiator(being used as a pusher). use some paint filters and cups to check the thickness of your oil to some new oil, if your mixing it should def be milky. stay away from bars leak its only a band-aid to your real problem and could end up clogging small passages in your cooling system.

 

well I feel like a idiot!
added dye to radiator sat. night, after driving noticed dried up dye on the radiator. never noticed a leak b/c it dries quick and I always thought it was coolant that I spilled while topping off.
oil level went high b/c when measuring at my house if you move the car 4 feet back, level goes up like crazy.
thanks for everybodys assistance.

im a idiot.

 

I had a crack in my rad one time and I thought it was the head gasket, took like 2 weeks till I figured it out, the whole oil thing was puzzling , congrats

 

replaced radiator cap with a rx-7 cap
and after driving for about 30 miles coolant was still full.

im so happy