just curious what the outcome is.

 

Yeah i did mine STR block gaurd. Dropped in in the coolant duct and used a small punch and lightly tapped in place near the cyl divider. I used a ruller and made sure that it sat in there straight. I have not had one prob since

 

im currently runnning a str block guard in a stock b20 bottomend (b20vtec) and have been boosting it for over a year with out any ill effects of just slapping it in(no filing.grinding).... just got lucky i guess...

 

Mine installed


Rougly 4mm deep all around

 

bump

 

bump

 

i've HEARD.... that if its a tight fitting block guard, and its just slapped in... it can actually shift the cylinder walls ever so slightly...

i know somebody on this board didn't have success with it. in for more responses

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmsiR20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've HEARD.... that if its a tight fitting block guard, and its just slapped in... it can actually shift the cylinder walls ever so slightly...

i know somebody on this board didn't have success with it. in for more responses </TD></TR></TABLE> I have heard the same also, that if it has to be forced in, it will put unwanted pressure on the area that it was forced into and it will distort that area. I have a B16 Short Block assembled in my garage now and I have an GE Blockguard, I went yesterday to see if it would go in rather easily and it needed to be rubber malletted in about 3 places so I didnt install it.

 

i had a shop install mine....they said they put it in 1st then did the machine work after cuz incase the sleeves moved on him...hope this helps ya

 

to do it correctly, yes you should hone it after the install. BUT on this car with a inline pro gasket and blockguard, we got 275 ouf of a small turbo and only 10 psi. stock internals.

i filefit installed the block guard and put the new gasket on.

cliffs,
do it right, honet it after.
can it be done and work? yes.

 

Had a customer bring me a block that had a blockguard installed(GEM) W/O machining, the guard was soo tight it cause the cylinders to mis-shape and created a oval like cylinder that would not allow the piston rings to seat, hell when I tried to tear the motor down it took 30min t get 1 piston out of a sleeve, It made the cylinder close so much under heat/driving, the piston skirt was actually rubbing on the cylinder wal causing it to almost seize up!, not the rings on the wall, the piston side skirt!

Do it right or do it twice, Installing a block guard in a cold motor and checking clearence is a diffrent game than when the motor reaches opperating temps and things expand... in this situation it ended up costing the owner a new block and pistons needless to say, he now runs sleeves and wont try something like this again without the correct tools and help...

 

ive heard of freezing it and then installing it so it fits in easier and then it expands as it warms up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive heard of freezing it and then installing it so it fits in easier and then it expands as it warms up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

but when it expands it would shift the sleeves right?