Have recently started my build and going all out for high compression/high boost built to kill... Need facts and opinions what y'all would think.....

Engine & Engine Head: H22a4 VTEC (Open Deck) stock block and stock engine head

----Build Information----

-GReddy e-Manage Ultimate-
****Yes I AM KEEPING ATTS WITH THIS BUILD AS AN EXPERIMENT****
-CP Forged Pistons-
Compression Ratio: 11.5:1
Pin Size 22mm
Compression Height: 1.220
Rod Length: 143.15mm
Stroke: 90.7
Bore: 87mm
Material: 2705 Alloy
Bore Size: STD

-Manley I-Beam Turbo Tuff Rods-
Rod Bolt: 3/8” ARP 2000
Gram Weight: 614
Big End Width: 0.935
Big End Bore: 2.008
Beam Type: Turbo Tuff Rods
Pin Size: 22
Rod Length: 5.636
Material: 4340 Steel

-Darton MID Sleeves Honda Prelude H22-
Bore Size: 87mm To Fit Piston Specs Above

-Supertech Valvetrain-
Valve Spring Pressure: 93lb Seat Pressure
Intake Valve Size: STD Size Dished Face
Exhaust Valve Size: STD Size Dished Face

-Skunk2 Ultra Series Stage 3 Camshafts-
Exhaust Centerline: 108deg
Intake Centerline: 104deg
RPM Range: Varies
Valve Clearance (Intake/Exhaust): .008in / .010in

-Skunk2 H22 VTEC Pro Series Cam Gears-

----Turbo Information----

-Gen II Garrett GTX3582r Dual Ball Bearing-
Boost: 16-24lb
OR
-Precission Turbo Billet CEA 6266 Dual Ball Bearing-
Boost: 16-24lb

----Fuel Setup Information----

-Walbro E85 Fuel Pump High Performance 450LPH-
Type: Universal E85 Intake Fuel Pump
Fuel: FLEX (E85 Ethanol Safe)
Horsepower: 750HP+
Flow Rate: 450LPH
Operating Pressure: 35-120 PSI Outlet
Diameter: 10mm (3/8”)
Diameter (upper body): 39mm
Diameter (lower body): 50mm

-Summit Racing PTFE Hose-
Hose Size: -6 AN
PTFE Lined: Yes
Hose Length (ft): 10.000
Outer Material: Braided Stainless Steel
Hose Color: Natural
Hose Material: PTFE
Hose Inside Diameter (in): 0.320 in.
Hose Outside Diameter: 0.430 in.
Minimum Recommended Temperature: -65 degrees F
Maximum Operating Temperature: 400 degrees F
Minimum Operating Pressure (PSI): 2,500 PSI
Quantity: Sold Individually
Notes: Requires PTFE fittings
Recommended Hose Ends: Summit PTFE
E85 Compatible
Gasoline Compatible

-AEM Electronics High-Volume Fuel Rail-
Fuel Rail Material: Aluminum
Fuel Rail Finish: Black Anodized
Fittings Included: Yes
Hardware Included: Yes
Quantity: Sold Individually
Horsepower Rating: Up to 1000HP

-AEM Electronics High-Volume Billet Adj. Fuel Pressure Regulator-
Pressure Range (PSI): 20-60
Regulator Style: Return
Regulator Location: Fuel Rail Mount
Boost/Vacuum Reference Port: Yes
Boost/Vacuum Rise Ratio: 1:1
Gauge Port: No
Mounting Bracket Included: Yes
Fittings Included: No
Rebuildable: Yes
Inlet Quantity: One
Inlet Attachment: Female Threads
Inlet Size: -6 AN
Outlet Quantity: One
Outlet Attachment: Stock
Outlet Size: Stock
Return Attachment: Stock
Regulator Material: Aluminum
Regulator Finish: Black Anodized
Quantity: Sold Individually
Horsepower Rating: Up to 1000HP

-AEM Electronics Universal High-Flow Inline Fuel Filter-
Fuel Filter Style: Inline
Inlet Quantity: One
Inlet Size: -10 AN O-ring
Inlet Attachment: Female Threads
Outlet Quantity: One
Outlet Size: -10 AN O-ring
Outlet Attachment: Female Threads
Filter Element Included: Yes
Smallest Particle Filtered: 7 Microns
Filter Element Material: Fabric
Filter Housing Material: Aluminum
Filter Housing Finish: Black Anodized
Overall Length (in): 10.000 in.
Outside Diameter (in): 2.000 in.
Mounting Bracket Included: No
Fittings Included: No
Clamps Included: No
Quantity: Sold Individually
Horsepower Rating: Up to 1000HP

-Honda Prelude 1000CC RC Fuel Injectors-
Flow Rate in CC per minute: 1000CC/min @ 43.5 PSI
Flow Rate in LB per hour: 95LBS/HR @ 43.5 PSI
Resistance: 2.5 ohms
Voltage: 8-15 Volts, nominal 13.5 Volts
Amperage: Peak 4.0 Amps / Hold 1.5 Amps
Pressure: Min 30PSIG/ Max 100PSIG
Spacers/O-rings Included: Yes
*****Additional Notes******

1. You must have your computer setup for low impendance.
2. OBD1 style injector clips are REQUIRED. If your vehicle still has the stock injector clips and needs OBD1 style injector clips, please select them from the drop down menu above – additional $19.95.

That is mostly everything for the engine alone....
Comment and let me know your opinion...

 

Legit just copy-pasting off of retail sites... Tonnes of unneeded info, lacking a lot of actual useful points.

Fuel injectors are way too small, and undersized compared to the rest of the build/fuel system. You'll need E85 or Meth/Water injection to satisfy that compression ratio.

You never mentioned your power goals. I'd go with Garrett over Precision, personally.

 

One post wonder? Keeping the ATTS lol? Good luck not blowing that fancy differential apart.

 

First all I have to start somewhere to gain knowledge. That's why I posted here to learn. Horsepower goals 600... I've already went and bought out the rods and pistons, as well as a resleeve. How big of injectors would I need to run? 1600cc or 2000cc without maxing the injectors.

 

The correct place to start is Google, and searching. H series turbo builds have been done 10000x times over. You've clearly done next to 0 research coming into this, which is funny since you've apparently already dumped a couple grand into this.

Both turbos overkill for 600.

Just leave.

 

Just a little over 2grand has been spent. That's not much at all. Pistons, rods, and a resleeve. From other people's knowledge, a 6266 isn't really overkill at all. Running E85 how big of injectors would I need to run? I would appreciate if you steer me in the right direction👍🏼

 

My h22 on e85 maxed out around 450hp on rc1000.. im on fic1850s right now and am just under 600hp and still not maxed out on 23psi with a borg s362... need a retune with my 4port boost controller and i should be able to squeeze 650ish out of her..

 

What engine management system do you intend to use that would allow the use of the stock ECU and transmission control ???

 

I am really interested in this ATTS experiment that will some how keep the ATTS clutches/gears together over their known 250whp limit....

 

 

atts will slip like all hell north of 250whp, ive personally seen it happen. your experiment will be a failure and cost you money and time and cause you to use a less than stellar ems. ditch the SH block and make your life easier. not to mention that soon to be useless atts unit is heavy and will just weigh you down further in a car that is already heavy as hell.

 

My only option at this point is to convert to OBDI and run Hondata s300. I could keep this a separate project and run all motor with the SH to turn it into a cornering beast on the track then buy a jdm h22a for FI.

 

I was reading a persons thread (Revi if that's correct) the ATTS unit holds three small clutch disk and I wanted to take it to a shop so they can custom fab stronger padding to withstand an FI build. I can make it happen

 

I appreciate the knowledge you're sharing thank you. I will go with ID 2000 injectors instead that way idling will be smooth and I wouldn't have to max my injectors to reach 600hp. Anytime along the road I decide to crank up more hp, I'll still have a bit more to squeeze out of the injectors.

 

Thats what a person that wanted to maximize their dollars spent and their time would do. I think its cool that you want to keep the atts, but youre going to spend a fortune having someone totally dissect a 20 year old honda atts unit and design clutches that can handle more than moderate power, let alone anything near 600whp. Dont waste huge money on the atts unit, the value and reliability just will not be there. youll end up sleeving a block you wont even want to use later on because theres a 50+ pound weight hanging off of it and its just little inconveniences that come with it. the intermediate shafts from base model and SH are different, the transmissions are not interchangeable between the two, etc.

youre going to find yourself irritated as hell later on replacing parts that will wear out trying to run down people parting out SH preludes that arent real common cars. I dont know that you can even have gears made for the SH trans even if you went that route. The SH cars themselves have a somewhat better suspension to begin with, just be happy with that and run. theres a lot of reasons people dont heavily modify the atts equipped preludes. if it could be done reasonably, id have one.

idk man, just trying to save you the headache later on. either way, good luck.

 

That is the only option that I am aware of. Better than nothing, but certainly not state-of-the-art by today's engine management standards.

This option will NOT work... the OBD-1 ECU must communicate with the ATTS transmission controller... and since that device didn't exist in 1995, this cannot happen. Using the Hondata s300 in a 5G "SH" Prelude essentially kills the electronic LSD inside the ATTS transmission. A really heavy open diff transmission is what you get. If you want to keep and use this "SH" chassis, I suggest you find a standard H22A4 block and conventional LSD transmission to drop in... it will lower the weight of the car overall, provide a transmission that is proven to handle the power that you want to make, and allow you to use better engine management choices. Sounds like a "win, win, win" to me.

 

Quick question beforehand... If I get an OBDI H22 block with a base transmission, I can swap out the gears from the SH and drop them into the base transmission right?

 

Regarding the e-Manage Ultimate, many here on H-T dislike it, because it was not the easiest to integrate, and there weren't many tuners that were familiar with it from the beginning. But it can and has made over 500-700whp on applications. Now if it were the standard e-Manage, I'd show more concern. But here on H-T, it will always remain labeled as the "red-headed step-child" of Hardware/software management.

 

Also I do feel like the ATTS unit slips because of launching. Would it slip even if you were to do a straight line pull let's say 65mph roll.

 

The best of knowledge. Thanks for sharing

 

from my understanding, it activates under heavy cornering only.

 

I'm not sure. ATTS uses a few factors including wheel slip to choose when to engage. I think it measures rotational G forces as well.

I'm not sure if wheel slip alone from a hard launch would be enough for it to try to engage the clutches. If so, an explosion wouldn't be far behind it.

 

That's what I read as well. If that's the case, then I don't mind keeping the atts. I'm not taking my car to the drag at all and it's pointless to corner full throttle anyways. I'm pretty content on driving an open diff as well as keeping the extra weight from the atts so it can hook better also. Keeping ac, and power steering. Using sheepy built exhaust manifold to keep those two units👍🏼

 

When I saw the thread I was like YES a big build, lot's of power! Ends up being a street car build, dang.

 

Big plans for another H22 build along the road... Sorry for the disappointment.