I am looking into getting the GT35r since I have sold my GT35e.

Are there any other options for the coolant lines other than hooking them up at the throttle body? I want to make the install as clean as possible and use all Stainless Steel lines with AN fittings if possible. Anybody can help me out? I can't seem to get a hold of Stan the man for the fittings and what not.

 

Id like to know if you can just block off the waterlines all together and not run them...id think you could..

liam

 

Do you think you could run one line from the top coolant hose housing?Then put the return line in the freeze plug fitting.Drill the center of the plug out then tap for AN fitting and the same for the housing.You would get the cooler water hitting it first.It somewhat would be like a DSM setup.Short lines less of a mess and some manufacturers will not warranty the turbo if those lines are not used.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liam821 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Id like to know if you can just block off the waterlines all together and not run them...id think you could..

liam</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would you want to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 11psiTurboSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why would you want to?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the same thing I'm wondering!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liam821 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Id like to know if you can just block off the waterlines all together and not run them...id think you could..

liam</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yah you could run them without the waterlines, but I know too many lazy *** people that don't and guess what BYE BYE turbo.

I am tryin to find the cleanest way to do it, as well as get fresh cooled coolant to the turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yah you could run them without the waterlines, but I know too many lazy *** people that don't and guess what BYE BYE turbo.

I am tryin to find the cleanest way to do it, as well as get fresh cooled coolant to the turbo. </TD></TR></TABLE>


the drain plug in front of the block. tap that as 1 source = hidden. then hide one and tap it off the water neck or TB. less lines.

 

I would say that you need to feed the turbo from the thermostat housing/water neck. Maybe where the fan switch cause that is before the thermostat or weld a bung on the bottom end tank of the radiator. Either way this will feed coolant that was just cooled by the radiator. As far as return you can either drill and tap the upper water neck or weld a bung on the upper end tank of the radiator. This is the the most functional way to do it because you dont want to use coolant that has been heated by the motor.

 

That sounds pretty easy. I can have a friend of mine tig a bung on both the top and bottom of my half size C&R. But if I use the radiator, flow won't actually start happening till the thermostat opens. Sorry having a brain fart. My car has been out of commission so long.

Now where in the world can I find the bung so that I can thread a AN fitting to it.

 

check out pic in my sig, i have changed to nomex (sp) wrapped lines and now take coolant from the bottom of my radiator to the turbo and back into the t-stat housing.

 

D@nny has his welded to the bottom of the radiator.

its pretty clean.

 

i'm doing mine this way i think the cleanest way would be to

1 tap the freez plug for a -6an fitting and line. that line only needs to be a few inches to get to the back of the turbo

2 i'm running one of those radiator hose adapters for the water temp sender for an after market water gauge. i'm going to drilll and tap a an fitting of the back of this adaptor next to the water temp sender.

 

i guess time for me to clean my turbo setup...coolant lines are all over the place under my engine bay...good info gonna go the freeze plug and the water inlet tap both of those...

 

You have to remember a few things .....


coolant flows from the bottom radiator hose down the back water pipe past the pump into the block and then up through the head and into the top of the radiator...

so the top of the radiator is hot coolant and the bottom is cooler.... I welded a -6 aluminum fitting on the bottom of my fluidyne as the feed...its a very short line and you cant even see it......then for the return and to make the coolant flow through the turbo I ran a -6 line to a fitting on my edelbrock manifold ....

very simple ill take pics now

 

if someone can host them i have pics...we-todd is down...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to remember a few things .....


coolant flows from the bottom radiator hose down the back water pipe past the pump into the block and then up through the head and into the top of the radiator...

so the top of the radiator is hot coolant and the bottom is cooler.... I welded a -6 aluminum fitting on the bottom of my fluidyne as the feed...its a very short line and you cant even see it......then for the return and to make the coolant flow through the turbo I ran a -6 line to a fitting on my edelbrock manifold ....

very simple ill take pics now
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No Honda's use reverse flow cooling.The head is the first thing to receive cooler coolant to help cut down on detonation.Then flows into and around the cylinders to water pump and out to the thermostat housing tube.I can start my cat up and let it idle before the thermostat opens completely and still touch the upper radiator hose and bottom is still hotter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silver99hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


No Honda's use reverse flow cooling.The head is the first thing to receive cooler coolant to help cut down on detonation.Then flows into and around the cylinders to water pump and out to the thermostat housing tube.I can start my cat up and let it idle before the thermostat opens completely and still touch the upper radiator hose and bottom is still hotter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope....try again....

before the thermostat opens the bottom hose will always be cold.......theres a bypass hose to let coolant circulate until the thermo opens.

if the thermostat is closed and coolant flows from the head down...then how would the bottom hose get hotter? the thermostat will be closed not allowing coolant to even enter the hose

 

I do know that full-race never runs the coolant lines on thier GT turbos, if i remember from what Geoff said, he doesn't like to run them because it just rises the heat of the coolant significantly to where he doesn't want it. He hasn't had any problems not running it.

I think i may be moving to a true GT3567r over my gt35e as well. If i do run coolant, i'll just run it where my heater lines used to go, from the head, and then back to the water tube. But i would rather just weld two fittings on my radiator at top & bottom and do it that way.

 

As I said before it completely opens.There is a bypass in the thermostat.If it don't flow this way there must be something wrong with every Honda/Acura that my family and I have ever owned.Then Honda employees must be stupid by putting the thermostat in backwards.The pellet is supposed to be on the hotter side of the water.Which is in the thermo housing/tube not the hose.

 

Ideally you want a resevoir higher than the turbo to provide a thermosyphon when the engine is not running. Otherwise coolant will boil in the hot turbo.

Coolant in to the turbo, out to the resevoir (located physically higher than the turbo CHRA) and then back to the water pump. Earle's et al have fittings that fit or you can go hose barb since this is not really high pressure stuff.

Good luck!

-Brian


Modified by Alfa Turbo at 6:20 AM 2/9/2006

 

Here are mine:

Return:



Feed:

I drilled out the small hose barb and tapped it with a 1/4 to -6.


Both:



I eventually had to reroute coolant lines to the throttle body(FITV) and IACV. I evnetually got rid of the FITV though which made coolant routing easier.
I got all my lines from Stan BTW.




Modified by Doodoo at 10:41 AM 2/9/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silver99hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As I said before it completely opens.There is a bypass in the thermostat.If it don't flow this way there must be something wrong with every Honda/Acura that my family and I have ever owned.Then Honda employees must be stupid by putting the thermostat in backwards.The pellet is supposed to be on the hotter side of the water.Which is in the thermo housing/tube not the hose.</TD></TR></TABLE>


you are saying the coolant flows into the motor from the top radiator hose down through the head and returns through the bottom hose.....and you are wrong ...

the wax pellet is infact on the side facing the water pump so what the hell are you talking about?

you seem to fail to understand the way a thermostat works....when it is closed the coolant in the water jacket is recirculated around the block when this coolant is heated to about 150 degrees the thermostat (on the side with this hot coolant) opens and allows the coolant to flow through the radiator.

do you need me to draw you a picture?


again ...the coolant flows into the motor from the bottom hose, passes the thermostat goes through the water pump where it is pushed through the water jacket up through the head and expells the hot coolant into the top of the radiator...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matkeller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say that you need to feed the turbo from the thermostat housing/water neck. Maybe where the fan switch cause that is before the thermostat or weld a bung on the bottom end tank of the radiator. Either way this will feed coolant that was just cooled by the radiator. As far as return you can either drill and tap the upper water neck or weld a bung on the upper end tank of the radiator. This is the the most functional way to do it because you dont want to use coolant that has been heated by the motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im gonna give this a try makes alotta sence ..thanks matt

 

doodoo


the line you have labeled as feed will not feed the coolant.......the flow of coolant will be pushed towards the water pump ... so the line you have labeled as the return will actually be feeding the hot coolant from the top of the head ....

 

Godamn my family and I must of had some freak honda's.We have had atleast 10 if not more and they work the way that I am saying.Cause the coolant enters the head first.Why would you want to heat the head first.Look up Gm LT1-LS2 reverse flow cooling.They do it so you have less of a chance for spark knock and even cooling of the engine.I would also like to know why the radiator is hotter at the bottom than the top and the coolant sensors are on the thermostat housing.I want my fan to kick on after the water goes past the radiator.