INeedMoreGOFAST

Kind of a long read but I've tried everything I know so far to no avail.

run down:

Set up:
1995 GSR Sedan
Stock B18C1 w/190k
Prescission SC34 .48/.70
Rev Hard Stg2 log manifold
Rev Hard Stg2 FMIC (24X6X3)
TiAL 38mm Wastegate
TurboXS RFL BOV
DSM 450cc bluetops
Wahlbro 255
Custom 2.5" downpipe > Stock exhaust w/ cutout

Tuned w/ CROME Pro @ 10.5psi

The car had been running perfect for the last 7 months (when it was tuned by Jeff at RRev motorsports). About 3 weeks ago it started having cooling issues which I finally found the cause to be the thermostat. I replaced that last weekend and it's been ****ed up ever since.

I pulled the distributor off for better access to the thermo housing but I made sure to mark it to ensure accurate placement when putting it back. Finished putting in the new thermostat and put it all back together then the car wouldn't start.

I wasn't getting spark, took the distributor back off and apart, the screw holding the rotor on had come off and ****ed **** up on the inside. Got a new distributor, put it on and it started and idled almost normal, a little lower (500rpms) but still smooth.

This is when I noticed the extent of car's current problem. It starts and idles fine but when put under load it struggles to accelerate. It will only gain speed if i use less than 5-10% throttle, any more and it will bog/misfire. If I give it WOT, the turbo will build up to full boost and blow off as normal when I release but the car will not gain any speed.

Things I've checked; I checked the turbo, the wheel spins freely with hardly any shaft play, replaced the spark plugs and wires with no difference. I even checked the compression, 180psi on all 4 cylinders cold. I sanded and cleaned the ground wire that connects to the thermostat housing and checked for any wires/vac lines i may have unplugged accidentally, nothing.

Tonight I got the ***** to take it on the freeway (it's slow as ****). After a minute or two I got up to 60-70mph and cruised for about 10 minutes. When i got home i popped the hood and my manifold was glowing red hot. Yes, the cut out was taken off (opened) to make sure it's wasn't a clog in the exhaust.

I'm told this means my timing is retarded causing the EGTs to skyrocket...? I have no idea what could have caused this, I've taken off my distributor several times and never had a problem before...what could throw the timing so far off? Can I simply get it retimed or is there a sensor that needs to be checked/replaced?

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

Have you put a timing light on it?

Any way you could get access to a wide band?

1qwkinline4

I agree with (jfoster) most likely there is a timimg issue. and yes you need a wideband so you'll beable to check your mixture
Also do it old fashion way do I WOT then pull the plugs on the spot and see what they read
Borrow a friend ECU and see what it does also....
sorry not much help but things I would try

INeedMoreGOFAST

Well I'm currently working (wind turbine QC) in BFE Texas, about 3 hours from any city that might have a tuning shop that knows what an Integra is let alone know anything about one that's turbo'd.

I'll just have to order a wideband and wait for it in the mail. I've never used a timing light before so I'm going to have to read up and give it a shot.

Mostly I'm just curious what could throw it so far off out of nowhere.

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

Yeah need more info to really help. Timing lights are cheap and cake to use. Like posted above go WOT and right when its doing it the worst kill it without lifting and pull over and pull out some plugs.

I am guessing they're caked black = super rich. Just be careful as they'll be crazy hot and its easy to cross thread them back in when the alum head is hot/soft.

INeedMoreGOFAST

#1 and #4 plugs look like they just come out of the Burger King flame broiler. Charred black. #2 and #3 are slightly blackened but still what I would call clean.

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

did you do a wot shut off? or just out the cold motor?

check this -> http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html

you should def get a light on it and confirm propper base timing since you touched the dizzy.

INeedMoreGOFAST

Ok, I just tilted the dizzy as far back as it would go (advanced) and the car is idling back at 800-900rpms, is very responsive again and feels to be accelerating as it use to. I haven't tried any WOT pulls because I'm afraid the timing is still off and I don't want to detonate. Waiting for it to cool back down so I can take off the valve cover and check if the belt jumped a tooth.

EDIT: Just tried a WOT pull and it's definitely still bogging but not as bad as it was.

INeedMoreGOFAST

I was told it could be a bad MAP sensor so I picked one up and installed with no difference...took it back and got a timing light. I will be checking that when I get off work tonight.

I would have just taken it to a shop by now but i'm working on location in BFE, 3 hours from any city that knows anything about a turbo Honda. Just to clarify how deep in BFE i am; I called the local Firestone automotive and explained my problems to one of their mechanics and his reply was "Acuras aren't suppose to be turbocharged, that's causing all of your problems". *facepalm*

Really hope to find the problem soon because bumming rides SUCKS. I'm extremely boost deprived right now and starting to get really depressed.

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, since you messed with the dist its a good idea to confirm that you're back at the base timing it was originally tuned at.

If you have a multimeter you can also test your ICM/coil/dizzy to confirm good spark.

Also if your t-stat issues involved driving the car cold because it wouldn't reach op temp it is possible that your plugs are fouled and should be replaced.

Checking your fuel pressure to confirm that it is correct and steady can rule out fuel delivery problems.

Also check for boost leaks, if you took charge pipes loose to do the t-stat you might not have got all the couplers tight or one might be ripped.

Did your car ever get really hot? Have you done a compression test since? Is there oil in your coolant or vice versa ?

Does your turbo spin freely?

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

Have you checked the cam timing yet? Might have jumped a tooth some how.

INeedMoreGOFAST

jfoster- The first post lists everything i've done so far. Pretty much everything you suggested I've done apart from the fuel pressure check and multimeter to check the dizzy. However, I did throw a whole new dizzy on so i know it's not the culprit. It did get hot, 3/4 the way up once. Comp test pulled 180psi on all 4 while cold and the oil and water are still 100% separate.

93turbo16- I'm going to check it tonight after work.

edit: I'm also being told that crome could have just gone apeshit on me for no reason...i don't know how likely that is though.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

whenever you take a distributor off you ABSOLUTLY need to retime the engine by jumping the connector and etting it to your base 16 degrees if thats what you tune is. if you dont do so the ignition & fuel timing will be off and cause this very problem.

INeedMoreGOFAST

I just did a WOT shut off when the car was fully warmed up. here is a picture of the plug:


As for the chance of belt jump, it did not.


Still nice and tight:



I haven't checked with the light yet (ran out of time, gotta go to work) but hopefully I'll get off at a decent hour tonight so I can tomorrow. I'll also try to pick up a fuel pressure gauge today during lunch and check on that tomorrow as well.

b20beast83

my plug looks like that too

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

that doesnt seem very tight, i dont have any play in the belt betweenthe two cam gears or very little, your actually lifting the belt up, it could have jumped and judging by the picture it did jump. if the crank pulley is dead nuts then your exhaust cam jumped a tooth. it the crank pulley i forward a little then your intake cam jumped a tooth

INeedMoreGOFAST

It's really not that much play at all, pulling up and pushing down I'd say there is less than a .25" of travel.

The exhaust cam's "up" arrow does point a little off to the front of the car but the hash marks are both level with the head when they are pointed to each other and I was told the hash marks were more important/exact than the "up" arrow indicators. Maybe not...i don't know.

Here's a picture of the indicators direction highlighted:

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

This is what I have been saying and still agree with.

That pic of the cams is odd looking but it may just be the angle of the photo more than anything....as long as all marks are straight up it should be on.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

nah that exhaust cam is definatly off a tooth. redo your timing belt and then adjust that distributor properly

1qwkinline4

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I wasn't getting spark, took the distributor back off and apart, the screw holding the rotor on had come off and ****ed **** up on the inside. Got a new distributor, put it on and it started and idled almost normal, a little lower (500rpms) but still smooth.

This is when I noticed the extent of car's current problem. It starts and idles fine but when put under load it struggles to accelerate. It will only gain speed if i use less than 5-10% throttle, any more and it will bog/misfire. If I give it WOT, the turbo will build up to full boost and blow off as normal when I release but the car will not gain any speed.

I thought of you today when I was trouble shooting a friends car earlier..Same exact issue on a boosted single cam..
I wish I could post his text message to me saying" under WOT he was getting passed by the mail man LOL...So back on subject...I checked to see if his CAT was clogged no result/ checked plug gaps..good/ timing belt. good and tight; redid timing just cause to make sure; check dizzy was firing so didn't think nothing of it...Well after more and more searching, we popped a friends Dizzy on for the hell of it...and what do you know ran like it did before(nice and crisp)..Wierd cause it didn't throw a code or anything....
So if you have access to a friends dizzy or have a extra one try it out and see what happens.

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

I am going to agree.

Its more apparent if you make the pic small and look at the arms on the gears.

INeedMoreGOFAST

I apologize for the shitty phone pictures, I did the best with what I have available.

I'll take a picture of it further away when I get back from work tonight. I'm just having a rough time taking in the belt jumped. I mean it ran perfectly fine the night before all the way into the garage, then some how over night it jumped a tooth?

I'm not saying you guys are wrong, it seems like it'd take more than that to jump a tooth but I don't have a lot of experience with timing belts.

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

Well, from your pic it definately looks like the intake cam gear is square with the timing cover and straight up whereas the exhaust cam looks to be not square with the cover and not straight up....

1qwkinline4

DAMN ME sorry.... back to the timing...