i have a 99 civic si with b16a2 and i am planning on doing full engine rebuild with skunk2 internals, i want to turbo making 350 to 400 whp. Can anyone give me a shopping list for that? and help on internals would help too!

 

You really need to go to the forced induction section and read the FAQs.

 

**Moved to Forced Induction**

Start by reading through this a few times: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/


Just a tip since you're new...people around here are not keen on spoon-feeding answers to new members (or to anyone for that matter). There are plenty of resources on this site, if you care to use them

 

i suggest a GTX3071 (not GT3071)

realy you wont regret it...

power from 3000 rpm and up to 500HP at 1.5 bar

much better than any greddy...

 

I would agree similarly, but the GT3071R and GT3251B Journal can do that as well depending upon budget. Even 44lbs/min-56lbs/min on average can do that. It doesn't have to be a steel ball-bearing cartridge to do it , but a GTX3071R isn't necessary. But it is nice. An 18G at 41lbs/min would be a little stressed to do 350whp.

 

the GTX3071R has about 20% more flow than GT3071R, and response about 500-700 rpm lower than the GT3071R,

i ve seen how the GTX turbo works, literally i am in love with these turbos....

I know that they are much more expensive, but if you want the power of GT3076R (and mabe more) and the response of GT2860R, the GTX3071R is exactly what you need...

 

A gtx3071r seems a little overkill for his power level. Seems like a gtx2860r, gtx2867r, or even a garret t3/t04e 57 trim would be a better match for 350-400hp

 

A 50 trim t04e would be the best match, not to mention the most affordable.

the 10 and 11 blade gtx wheels definitely have their limits, mostly at high boost pressures but I'm not going to get into turbocharger design theory here.

 

why not to ?

i believe we are at the right topic, and that is a very interesting subject.

i think that we must use every turbo no more than his maximum efficient pressure ratio, that means almost untill 1.6-1.8 bar.

if we want more power, we have to get a bigger turbo....

IMO it is wrong to push your turbo up to 2 bar...

realy T04e 50 trim is an excellent low cost turbo choice for the b16a2

 

57 trim feels good. 500$

 

Turbomaniac, are you crazy?? Its "wrong" to push a turbo up to 2bar???
Have you ever seen a compressor map if some larger turbos? The meat of their efficiency island LIVES in the 2+ bar range. Some turbos simply dont shine till you really crank them up because of their design

 

...like the Borg Warner S200/S300 series turbos. They're over 70% efficient to nearly 3.5bar and hardly working at 2bar. http://myfiero.com/uploads/19238_.jpg

The GTX series is great and all, but its overkill for the OPs goals. Personally i would snag a new T3/T04e 50 trim. Its small enough to be responsive and big enough to make the power you want plus it doens't blow your budget.

 

of course if the efficient pressure ratio is more than 2.0 bar than its ok to have more pressure...

but in physics it is the pressure that increase air temperature and not the flow so IMO i would prefer more power with less pressure...

ie to the b16, i would prefer 1.5bar and 600 hp with a GTX3071, than 2.5 bar and 600hp with a T04trim50..

 

anything less than 20psi on most turbos is just sad, you don't even get into the meat of the map

5+5, 6+6, and 7+7 bladed compressor wheels are the best choices for high airflow above 18-20psi. the gtx wheels only improve response times below 20psi and after that the lower blade count wheels take over.

the reason everyone loves the gtx series is no one has ever seen a compressor map for a billet wheel... the strength of billet wheels means they can see pressures of 50-60psi without issue. if they are point milled then you have unlimited flexibility with the profile and back angle of the wheel, plus a billet wheel means thinner blades and thinner hubs so a billet wheel will move more air compared to a comparable cast wheel.

that's about as deep into as I'll get, don't feel like defending science against the self righteous and opinionated internet lol.

 

sounds very impressive..

there are people, though that believe billet wheel only offers more liability and potential for higher boost levels, and not more flow at the same pressure..

 

A cast wheel has to be designed in such a manner that it can be removed from the mold/tooling. with a billet point machined wheel this isn't an issue and you can go very aggressive with wheel profiles and angles, thus giving the billet wheel an indefinite airflow and efficiency advantage over a cast wheel.

also cast wheels can have flaws because of the casting process.. there can be minute air pockets, inconsistent areas of thickness or flow of the grain, etc. having a forged billet to machine a wheel from eliminates this. if you were to cut a billet wheel in half and etch the surface to see the grain you would see it actually flows in the direction of the blade profile.

it also helps the grain and strength of the material because Garretts billets are forged into a rough compressor wheel shape.

 

And I even got the Garrett project/tech leads at PRI last year to admit to all of this... they were dumbfounded at how much I knew about turbocharger design and theory for someone who wasn't directly or indirectly involved in the turbocharger market/field. I almost felt like asking for a job lol.

 

so billet wheel is no1 right now...

do you suggest any billet compressor wheel manufacturer?

i suppose that you can change the cast wheel with a billet without further mods to compressor housing (if exducer and inducer dia is excactly the same)?

 

Garrett T3/T04E Stage III Turbo 50 Trim i found this one for around $680 thinking i might do this one

 

this is ok for you...

 

it fits my budget, but does it work with what power im looking for?

 

this turbo will make about 330hp at 15 psi

it is very important before you do anything read the facts:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/complete-how-turbocharge-your-honda-rep-ing-hypnotik-speed-1263795/

i disagree with some things that they are written in the faqs (ie possibly you will not need to replace fuel pump), but it is an excellent place to start learning how you will do it.

if you dont have any do it your self skills, it is better to make a market recearch and choose an expert to do the mod.

 

I'm sure Wantboost has his suggestions ..

As for changing the cast wheel to a forged aluminum compressor wheel, one may have to do some machining of the contour section of the compressor housing, but the rebalanceing of the cartridge is a requirement for it to work properly. Most of the "good" compressor wheel manufacturers won't sell their compressor wheel independently. You'd have to on ebay and take your chances.

However, most of the eBay and MAP wheels are of a lower grade aluminum (not all "billet" is the same grade) that can cause more problems than their cast equivalents. Plus, if they're just copies of the cast models with no viable changes in their design, you're just swapping out a cast wheel for something "shiny".