Anyone see a problem with this?

Seriously though, when I put the motor back together it will be 100% stock except the compression ratio is going from 9.2:1 to 9.8:1 and the bore will be 81mm to 81.5mm. So shortly after putting it together I will be putting the turbo on and tuning it. But I was curious if anyone thinks damage can occur from the stock tune on this. What I will be doing is running 93 octane instead of 87 octane because it will be running a bit leaner than factory.

But, thoughts? I do not want to tune the car only to tune it again a month later.

 

Its not worth taking a risk when you've already done the work and paid the cash to build the engine. You're still not "stock" anymore. I would not use the stock tune for anything more than the initial startup, and getting the car to the tuner.

Watch AFR closely.

 

I understand the default answer that is that. But on a N/A motor that the only difference is .6 more compression and .5mm larger holes...Is there REALLY a chance of harming the motor in lean conditions especially considering the added use of 93 octane? I'm not trying to half *** anything here, just wanting to be realistic.

 

The general rule is: the closer it is to stock, then the more likely you can use your stock ECU.
For your’s the thing that stands out is the high compression. The .5mm wider is within the “service limit”.
I think you’ll be alright with your stock ECU as long as you stay partial throttle, and low RPM. Just use it to get to a tuner, and no spirited driving. Don’t try to use your stock ECU very much thinking it’s just like stock. Ideally you would just tow it to a tuner.
Also, I don’t think it’s a good idea to put the turbo on soon. Although some people do hard break ins of the engine, I think it’s better to break it in for 1000 miles gently.
So for your’s you should take two trips to the tuner. One for breaking in the engine. Then go back later for a turbo tune.
I’m deciding myself which order I’ll do things too…Since mine is low compression and stock otherwise, I’m going to use my stock ECU to start, and gently drive my built engine.

 

You should be fine.

 

No sir.

Laskey Racing Online Store (Break in instructions)

Most dynos have a "break in" mode that they can use while tuning as well to vary the load and RPM for proper ring seating. Tune once with all of your things installed, no need for going back and forth. There's also no need to baby the engine after it's been tuned, just keep the oil changes a bit more frequent for the first 3K miles or so.

 

The whole breaking the motor in gently for xxxx amount of miles before beating on it is a long time myth and we aren't here for that. Sounds like I was right, I'll be fine. Obviously I do not plan to beat on it or ring it out to 7,000rpms with the tune "off".

You can break it in gently, normally, or beat on it and if the motor is built fine I doubt there would be a difference. I agree with above that you should change the oil sooner/more as possible.

 

Just make sure at a minimum you have your wideband set up correctly and watch your AFR. May also be worth considering paying a slightly lower price for an E-Tune from Jeff Evans or Phearable as a stop-gap tune.

Good luck, hope the build continues going well.

 

I co-sign this, however, I'm a person that will break-in with the turbocharger on, and disconnect the I/C pipe at the throttle body so you don't go into vacuum if you plan not to use a pre-tuned software/hardware combination. The thing that worries me, (forgive me if you stated this) is the idea of running the new engine on a stock ecu with any larger-than-stock injectors. I'm sure you aren't but just in case, ya know?

750-1000 mile break-in for me is normal. If possible, head to the tuner with the stock ECU to change ECUs and have a break-in tune, then come back for the final tune. That's the best way to start off if you can.

 

Yup. Stock ignition will be fine. Adjust afr to be right.

My break in: once it's not leaking, start tuning it, and don't hold back. If it's going fine it'll be fine. I've had builds with less than 300 miles going right to the race track for lap racing. Never had long term issues. I don't use any special break in fluids either. I do an early oil change to inspect but that's it.

 

I’ll be starting off with stock injectors on a stock ECU.
The thing about breaking in engines is it can’t hurt the engine and can help, and it’s easy to do.
Here’ a sheet Golden Eagle Manufacturing sent me:


Golden Eagle Manufacturing recommended break in for their sleeves.
I figure I might as well follow the procedure. Hard breaks ins can work also if you have a good process for doing it.

 

"Do NOT rev the engine over 3500RPM in the first 200 miles"
That is dumb advice IMO, and also somewhat contradicts what they follow that up with saying "don't keep the engine at the same RPM". Also from what they're proposing you'd be very limited on what you're able to tune at such light loads and limited throttle application, despite them stating "Tuning is KEY!"

I also would definitely not run the same break-in oil for 1000 miles... Meh, whatever, each company/builder seems to have their own intended method...

 

I plan on doing neighborhood driving at first, so I should be able to keep it at low RPM and not a constant speed, just kind of cruising up and down the local area. Mine isn’t registered or insured yet, so I hope the local cops don’t mind me just driving around the close streets, lol. I’ve seen kids on dirt bikes/ go carts, so I should be alright.
You’re right about the 1000 mile first oil change- I will be changing it first at 30 minutes, the again a few times before 1000 miles, using non-synthetic 5w-30.
Yeah, the “break in” is all kind of theory and different builders use different ways of doing it.
I think StopSign32v is good to use his stock ECU/injectors…

 

Vacuum pulls (engine braking) is one of the best things you can do to help seat the rings. You can't even really engine brake from only 3500RPM.
And yeah, we're on the same page on oil changes. I may overdo it a bit because I'll change the oil at least 3 times before 1K miles, but whatever. Conventional oil is pretty cheap, and I want to see if there's any particulates in the oil or caught in the filter. After the first couple hundred miles and after a couple changes, or after the dyno, you shouldn't see any metallic sheen or "dust" at all in the oil.

Magnetic drain plugs also very nice to have for this purpose.

 

I would hope you know me better than that by now.

Couldn't run a stock tune with larger injectors. Well at least not too well if you could.

 

Don't baby it

Drive it normal but vary the RPMs. You are coming across as if you will damn near stall it starting from 1st and then shift no higher than 2,000rpms. It isn't going to blow up unless something was done wrong and if it was nothing you can do will save it. You are breaking in the rings to the cylinder and RPMs combined with heat (to a point) is what helps here.

Some will argue to break it in on the dyno with WOT tunes and I wouldn't say they are wrong. Ever heard the saying "Break it in like you plan to drive it!"? That is where that term comes from. My opinion falls somewhere in the middle but I DO NOT agree with keeping the RPMs below 3,500.

 

This has me wondering...Should I install the GE sandwich plate along with the oil pressure gauge before breaking in the engine? Like you two I plan to change the oil frequently until 1,000 miles or so. Will probably use cheap Walmart oil unless I research a reason not to.

 

It would be a very good idea if you're able to, monitor it either from a direct gauge or from Hondata/ECU. I mentioned in another thread that I bought a Vibrant oil cooler sandwich plate, but I'm actually using AN caps to close off where the lines would be running to the cooler - Instead I'm initially only going to use it for the smaller ports on the side for an oil pressure sensor and gauge.

AFR gauge of course is non-negotiable.

 

Start the motor. Get it to 180 degrees. Drain the oil. Break in the motor right after. Change that oil and you should be good.

I change my oil after every other track event as i see my oil pressure drop.

 

The only thing you need to do is seat the rings which happens a lot quicker than most people think. With a freshly machined block and new pistons, they should be perfectly round and ready to go. If the machine work is done correctly you should not burn ANY oil during initial start up or afterwards. Your ring gaps and P2W are set, your bearing clearances are set. Ring seating happens under load and heavy vacuum. The more load, the better(to an extent) because it forces the rings outwards towards the cylinder walls and promotes sealing. Heavy vacuum does the same but it sucks them outwards.

I never bought into the "baby it for X miles" crap. Within the first ~15 miles I'm doing pulls off the wastegate. After 500 miles it's full send. I change the oil after the initial start up/warm up, then after 50 miles, then after 500, then at 3000 and full synthetic after that. Never had an oil burner or engine with issues. If it's built right and tuned right it will be fine.

No need for any fancy "break in" oil either. Just get a reputable dino oil and add a bottle of ZDDP additive every oil change until you switch to full synthetic.

 

I only use vr1 oil 20-50

 

You wouldn't want to break the motor in with that. But why do you use such a thicc oil? Baby got back on that one

 

I used to run the same 20-50 VR1 as well before changing to Amsoil, and I've known other people that really like Valvoline VR1 as well for these cars.

Great zinc content, and in hotter climates sometimes the xtra thicc oil is nice for the added pressure, and otherwise doesn't cause problems.

 

I plan to also run VR1 but not in 20-50! Why wouldn't you run the VR1 10W-30?

 

Because my local parts store only had 20-50, Texas is more or less always an extremely hot environment, and the added oil pressure was welcome (at the time I had a stock non-shimmed pump).

I'm not saying it's ideal (I've since switched to using Amsoil Signature 10-30), but Valvoline worked well for me during that time and I never saw any signs of damage. And similar to Pepe, I know many others use it as well on B & H engines.