Hi, i'm Joe. I'm new to the board. I thought i'd come here because you see, a few of my buddies had crx's in high school, and ever since then i've wanted one. Well now i have the money to build one, and i wanna do it right. Here's my starting plan, let me know what you think.
I've been doing a lot of research on this site lately, and i can tell not a lot of people like the B16's but i do.


B16a3 block
cp pistons, locks, wrist pins, piston rings @ 9.0:1
ACL race bearrings
Gates timing belt
Blox intake manifold
70mm throttle body
Eagle rods
Adjustable cam gears
Blox dual valve springs
B16 high volume oil pump
KMS b16 stainless steel valves
Blox titanium retainers
GSR camshafts

I figure this is a good start for parts.
I'm not sure on a few things, such as:
1. Do i want a stock oil pan, or do i want like a moroso oil pan with the turbo inlet/outlet tubes?
2. Will a stock throttle body and intake manifold perform just fine? Or do i need aftermarket?

Any ideas/thoughts are appreciative. Thanks!

 

what is your power goal?

will you DD this car?

turbo ?

ems ? ......... if you havent bought one yet just buy what ever your tuner feels comfortable using. the tune should be your main concern.

most of the things you have bought are not necessarily needed to achieve 350+ whp although they dont hurt either.

whats this b16 high vollume oil pump most people stick with oem oil pump.



oem oil pan is fine.. you will have to drill and tap or weld a bung to it later for the return line but its a lot cheaper then buying a moroso.

oem throttle body is fine you wont see major performance what so ever when you boost by swapping them out but if you desire to get one i suggest the omni power 70 mm and while your at it buy a 3bar map sensor because if you plan on running more then 10 or 11 psi you will need one but also the oem map is riveted in witch makes it a pain to replace it doesnt have to be a 3 bar but usually best bet to go with.
check out phearable.net......
so this is sitting in a crx through up some pics man. good luck.

 

Awesome. Thanks for the tips, i appreciate it. I'm going to start buying the parts very soon, within the next week.
I wanna work on engine 1st, then later on, get a crx shell and dump it in. When i do start building, i will definitely post pics.

Not sure what DD is.
My goal is 300hp, 325 max.
I have a used T25 turbo my buddy gave me, i don't wanna push the engine to its max ;p
I thought a high volume oil pump would be necessary to pump the oil efficiently enough so that i don't end up spinning a bearing and keeping the turbo well oiled up.

High volume oil pump: http://www.honda-performance.com/info-lv2.asp?id=284

 

daily driver.


300 whp.... can be achieved really easily with just a set of arp headstuds basically.pretty safely too.

your still going to need injectors, fuel pump, fpr, and a ems tho I.E,, chipped ecu , chrome, hondata S's neptune, ect...

 

I plan on driving it without a turbo for awhile, as i cannot afford the turbo fittings immediately upon completion, but within about 2 months afterwards. If you see where i'm pushing the limits on stuff, feel free to let me know. I don't want to buy parts that i'm not going to need!

 

like you sed b16/ is ok.ive seenb16/ls block it do 550hp just with 70mm throtlw-body.cp 84mm, 9;0comp 750 injectors, ls rods, t3/t4. p28chip, blox block gurd, tuned right.

any ways youre oem oil pan is ok,but if you whant a easyer oil plug for youre turbo.and cleaner look then i say moroso.

and for better air flow i say 68mm and higher is perfect,remember b16 head has one of the best air flow allready you will only make it better for youre turbo.you have the right idea.
keep it up bro.i hope i answerd you questions.

 

Would it be quick with the stock intake manifold and throttle body?
Do i really NEED it? Not buying that aftermarket stuff would help fund other parts of the project. Again, i don't really wanna spend money if i won't see that significant of a difference.

 

First you say you want to do it right and then you say you don't really wanna spend money :D

 

what parts do you already have?

1.if none i would get atleast 9:5.1 if this is a dd+(more response)
2.b16 cams are ok for boost or just get some type r cams(gsr cams r fine to)
3.keep stock oil pan and tap it(just as good)
4.b16 mani is fine, a type r mani is better, i like the skunk2 mani but i dont think u need a bigger throtle bodie for boost"depending on ur power goals"altho bigger wont hurt
5.type r dual springs are good any aftermaket dual springs are better,ss valves are good,but i dont think u need any titanium valvetrain parts yet but there great
6.use the stock oil pump and stock water pump,also the b16 rods are okespeacially if u upgrade the rod bolts to arp but if u upgrade to forge rods now u wont have to open the block back up for high boost

these are my opinion if u wanna build a good strong engine and have the money then go 4 it but if u just wanna boost it with only the supporting parts needed then i would only upgraded the internal parts needed for boost first cause you can always upgraded the bolt on later when you feel fit

when i did mines i knew later on i would go from 10 to 16-20 lbs every now and then so i went the expense way with.

eagle rods,je pistons(9:8.1),acl bearings,arp bolts and studs,cometic head gasket kit,titanium valve springs and retainers-(bcuz my GF drives it and always breaking ish)and sk2 pro2 cams and gears,sk2 im,stock throttle bodie

and to me that was going overboard

 

I want it to be done the most efficient way. I've had 7 cars, and every single engine has had problems such as seizing up, broken a piston, leaked oil, blew a hole in the block about the size of an egg. I'm getting tired of car problems. If i'm going to invest money into a car, i want to not have problems for at least a little while. I figure spending the most money is the best way to do that, but if i can save $5 and $10 on parts, then that will help in other aspects as well you know? I don't know the weak point of b16's. I don't know what will break, and what will last through the toughest of stuff i put it through.

 

ok, ive been doing this long enough i can give some advice:

goal of 300-350hp

head - you can do all oem parts shy of an intake manifold if you want to get a blox or skunk2. avoid the victor x for your power goals. cheapest valvetrain combo is gsr cams with the b16 springs(the retainers are the same) which you can do recommending a rev limit below 8400.

a little more money would be get some oem itr springs and cams. you can usually find a spring/retainer set used for 100 or less. this can safely rev to 8700 but i wouldnt go more.



block - chose your piston getting compression ratio somewhere between 9 and 10:1. eagle rods will be fine. id say bring the bore to 81.5mm to help ensure you get the proper piston to wall specs, roughly .0035 for that (varies slightly from piston to piston with silicon content). also get new water pump/oil pump/timing belt/headgasket and thermostat, i suggest oem for all of those, including rod and main bearings. get arp headstuds too.

get a good clutch, take your pick of brands just no ebay crap.


the best money you can spend is on proper management and tuning. and oh yea, dont run that tiny *** t25 on your motor. t3t4 50 to 57 trim are good choices, also perhaps a borg s256 or anything in that size range.

 

Thank you!

 

thats a nice answer to ur question

 

Everyone's responses were very informative and i'd like to thank everyone for the tips. I will keep all of you updated on the status.

 

Alright. So i bought my block:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I'll take some pics tomorrow, and friday ill have my engine stand (yay). Set it up on it, get it all cleaned up and post some pics.
Crank looks decent, so does the oil pan and windage tray.
Should i buy a new oil pump, or can i reuse this one?

 

Good luck on this project! Post some picks when you get some..

 

new 1

 

new oil and water pump

 

I would agree with the 50 trim, but the 57 may be a tad too big for his goals and the S256, as much as i love it, is too large. Hell, my S256 is too big for my goals and i'm looking for nearly 400whp...i think a downgrade may be in order

 

yeah, even smaller would work. S252, S247 or GT3251B

 

Well, if i ended up with more power than what was initially intended that's okay. My MAIN goal is to have a reliable car. Revving to 9k rpms has however always been a dream of mine, and i know that honda's are VERY reliable if treated right. Hell, i think i could even tear the living **** out of this, revving to 9k several times a day and it'd still run good for a long time, am i right?

 

The main fact that a Honda motor will rev to 9k easy depends on who built the motor. If the right parts are in the motor and it is put together crappy then it wont rev to 9k very long. The main problem with reving is the rods and the valvetrain.

If your power goals are 300...just get a decent turbo and rods and a cheap set of forged pistons. Use the extra money to upgrade that valvetrain.

 

Any suggestions on cheap forged pistons?

 

depends what you mean by cheap

you can get a set of forged Wiseco pistons for 4 to 5 hundred with wrist pins,rings ect and they should more then suite your power goals. ive pulled Wiseco's out of a b16 that had been 300+ dd for years and they looked fine.

ruffly or little bit more expensive like CP, Mahle, Arias check honda-tech sponsor FI section.

But here lies your problem if you wanna do it the right way you should buy a set of rods as well get the crank micorpolished, new oem bearings gaskets , and get the block hot tanked and honed. thats gunna cost you a bit more.you shouldn't just throw new pistons in a block that already has normal wear the rings don't like to seat right and the wear patterns don't necessarily match up, so like i said if your power goals are 300ish hp you should be fine with just a set of arp head studs and a good tune considering a compression and leak down check are in order. imo either do it right way or not at all. GL.

 

Questions like this can easily lead you down a bad path. If you're going to build it, realize that its going to cost money, and do it right once. The last thing you want is to cheap out on Part X and down the road have that part fail...now you're in a world of **** all to save a few bucks.