Ok, so I am doing my first Honda build and I am slowly learning the ins and outs of the Honda world. But I am building a fully built turbo b18b1 that I am putting in a CRX. So far I have Brian Crower valves, springs, retainers, stage 2 turbo cam, STROKER KIT Part #: BC0024LW, LW 95mm Crank, I Beam Rod (5.394"), 85mm CP 9.3-1 compression pistons, Darton wet sleeves, Skunk2 intake manifold, composite fuel rail, ARP Head Studs, and 70mm Skunk2 TB. I am about to order a Quaife ATB Helical LSD, ACT Prolite 8.8 lbs Flywheel, and Competition Twin Disc Clutch 4-8026-B. My questions are: what little parts should I get to complete the set up, what axles should I get (I'm looking to make 600hp+), should I do a rebuild kit on the trans, and what suggestions do you guys have?

 

Do you want to keep the motor non vtec ?

 

If you are keeping the non vtec head, port and polish the sh*t out of it. Lol

 

I am keeping it non-vtech

 

I am currently having the head ported and polished and having all the parts balanced.

 

http://www.raxles.com/

 

Thank you for your help. I just called them and for what I need, this is the best place to check out http://www.driveshaftshop.com/

 

Im surprised people are still buying those stroker kits. The cranks are crap, hate to be the one to say it but they break in two. Stock crank ftw . if its going to bwe turbo there is no need for a massive stroker crank. that money could be put to better use. 85mm pistons is really on the edge too. the bore difference doesnt add a whole lot extra power and better to have more meat between the cylinders than anopther mm of bore size

 

I don't understand why you would say that; no one else has said anything but positive things about Brian Crower kits. And the 85mm pistons aren't for making more power. The bigger the piston, the faster the turbo spools. And I don't have to worry about cylinder thickness because I am putting 84mm Darton wet sleeves in there. Half a mm taken off each side will not do any damage.

 

^^

OK, so it sounds like you know what ur doing... Go for it!

 

I agree with turbo-ls on this. The OEM crank is the strongest crank you can get, they are a forged crank already. I have heard of aftermarket cranks braking and I have never heard or seen a OEM crank break. They have been proven to handle 1000hp so why mess with it.
Also for your power level stick with the stock crank or a Type R crank would be the lightest I would go. The Victor X manifold would be a much better mani for you goals as well over the Skunk2. You will choke out the motor under the boost levels with the Skunk2, while you can get to 600hp with it it will take more boost and effect the power curve. I personally never really was pleased with how "turbo cam" performed in the real world. 403 or 404 cams would be the way I would go but JMO.
Yes larger pistons will spool the turbo faster but so will cam timing, have a higher compression like 9.5-10:1, 10:1 boosted motors are much more responsive out of boost and peak boost if reached sooner. This allow for the same type of response you seek and keeps the sleeves thicker and stronger. Yes you are doing Darton sleeves but 81.5mm bore has stronger sleeves then a 85mm bore no matter what the sleeves are. Just speaking from the realm of caution and beefier the better.
You have a plan over all sounds good but for sure go with a OEM crank.

 

any advice about the trans??

 

If your going to go with a stroker kit, go with the golden eagle kit at the very least. If your going with a 85mm bore then do yourself a favor and locate a P8R casting non vtec head. It is a 33mm valve JDM variant that came on certain b20b engines across the pacific. It has an 84mm bore and a 47cc combustion chamber volume, so you will need to account for this when determining your static compression ratio.

 

Ls trans is great for boost with the longer gearing. It keeps you on the boost longer.

 

also ls syncros fail sooner

 

the LS trans is horrible for boost...do NOT run that trans....

GSR trans+LSD is a pretty sweet combo...

 

You're talking about running an 85x95 motor to get the turbo to spool quicker, but you still want to run an LS head? More cylinder head flow is just as, if not more, important than having a slightly larger bore size.

An 85mm bore on a 95mm crank will net you about 50cc's more displacement. The chances of you noticing the difference in power is slim to none. The chances of you being able to rebuild the motor if you have a piston failure are also becoming slim to none, because there isn't enough cylinder wall left to bore it out more. The gains over an 83 or 84mm bore setup are very minimal, but the risks of having a useless sleeved block are high.

 

What turbo will you be using, and what will you be tuning with? These are the main parts in any setup, and you should build around the turbo, not build and then try to figure out a turbo.

But IMO, you are off to an awesome start, can't wait to see the TQ curve from a stroked LS.

 

I'm not sure on the turbo set up. I was going to run a hondata ecu. Any suggestions on tuning or computer components??

 

Wait this silly myth is still alive ????

Shorter gear ratios = better acceleration

The LS syncros dont fail sooner than vtec syncros. generally syncros in a honda trans barely wear and even when being replaced are still well within serviceable limits. Problem with LS trans is the syncros are smaller than gsr trans. a set of carbon syncros help out by slowing the gears down faster for smoorther shifting which helps the trans but then you hit 3rd gear and its such a ratio difference from 2-3 gear the car is a dog untill the rpm come back up. and then into 4th gear you go and start that battle all over again lol. the gear ratios suck.

Yes aftermarket cranks just arent very good in honda applications unless your having some big name high dollar company make you one stock is the way to go. 85mm isnt for better power output but to spool the turbo better???? My friend you have alot of research to do and you clearely arent ready to be building a big power car yet. 85mm is the limit on sleeves and by sleeves I mean sleeves not stock block. The material between the cylinders is very thin and you can end up with headgaket issues all the time. Listen to me ive been down the road your taking. Misguided and building an LS motor. nothing wrong with LS but do it right and listen to what people are telling you otherwise your going to end up with 15grand worth of paperweights

 

Hmmm same as B16 and GSR. All B series hydro trans share the same syncros. P21 syncro set.
GSR is geared a bit shorter while it is good for boost IME the LS is better. If drag racing with a GSR trans you either trap in 5th gear (one more gear to shift) and the LS trans keeps in on boost longer. I just know the with my old boosted set up running a B16 trans I was shifting a lot more.
GSR+LDS+LS final drive is a sweet combo.

 

your not staying in boost longer, its a longer gear so your can go faster in said gear with lower rpm's but if this gentalman is drag racing with this setup its going to be a built head with cams and will be turning more rpm and with the properly sized slick the gsr trans will be optimal

 

heres the place for trans and parts

http://shop.synchrotech-transmission...issions_c3.htm

 

awesome! I haven't been able to find any good trans websites. Thank you

 

Why the I beam rods?