is an FMU worth it?
alright guys, im in a huge dilema, i have a t3 .60 ar saab turbo that my buddy has re-built for me, not like it really matters, forget all that bs, what it comes down to is that i have a 96 d16y7, its obd-2 non-vtec, now in order to tune on crome, uberdata etc. i have to convert to obd-1, and i really don't want to do that, and being non-vtec, i believe that makes the swap more difficult, i only want to run 7 psi, i believe thats what the turbo is internally wastegated at, but i also want to pass emissions this june, so in short, will an fmu caz me to run rich or lean, and caz me to fail emissions, and can't i buy a apexi afc and have some sort of crude fuel tuning....help me run the most effective set-up with an fmu
If you dont want to spend the money on tuning or converting to obd1..get an afc..Thats all you need. AFC and bigger injectors and you can tune it good enough to run right.
http://www.turbod16.com is your best friend
http://www.turbod16.com is your best friend
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedEj8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you dont want to spend the money on tuning or converting to obd1..get an afc..Thats all you need. AFC and bigger injectors and you can tune it good enough to run right.
http://www.turbod16.com is your best friend</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea thats what i thought, in addition to the fmu, run afc and i have d16y8 injectors in the basement, i think they run 240 or 220 or something
http://www.turbod16.com is your best friend</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea thats what i thought, in addition to the fmu, run afc and i have d16y8 injectors in the basement, i think they run 240 or 220 or something
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedEj8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No if you have an afc you dont need the fmu.If you get an fmu you also need a missing link. Get some 440's and an afc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
From what I heard, the AFC doesn't have anything to do with the MAP sensor. So therefore you WOULD need a missing link.
From what I heard, the AFC doesn't have anything to do with the MAP sensor. So therefore you WOULD need a missing link.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by genocide43110 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
From what I heard, the AFC doesn't have anything to do with the MAP sensor. So therefore you WOULD need a missing link. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you take enough fuel out, it makes the ecu think it isn't in boost, because it cuts the map sensor voltage down so much. That is how it works, it manipulates the voltage from the map sensor, going to the ecu.
From what I heard, the AFC doesn't have anything to do with the MAP sensor. So therefore you WOULD need a missing link. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you take enough fuel out, it makes the ecu think it isn't in boost, because it cuts the map sensor voltage down so much. That is how it works, it manipulates the voltage from the map sensor, going to the ecu.
Ok, I stand corrected
. I could of sworn someone told me that even running an AFC, you would still need a missing link. I guess they were wrong.
. I could of sworn someone told me that even running an AFC, you would still need a missing link. I guess they were wrong.
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the afc tricks the ecu so it does NOT see boost.No need for a missing link. But even the afc is a very crude way to tune fuel, and you have no way to tune ignition timing. Still, its better than the FMU&missing link route.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by genocide43110 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I stand corrected
. I could of sworn someone told me that even running an AFC, you would still need a missing link. I guess they were wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It depends on how much boost you run and how big your injectors are. This setup is way out dated, I don't see a need at all to run this crap.
I take 20 minutes to convert my car back to OBD2 to get emissions inspected. I don't see what the big fuss is about.
And for the Y7, you just move 2 pins around for the IACV and you are back to stock.
. I could of sworn someone told me that even running an AFC, you would still need a missing link. I guess they were wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>It depends on how much boost you run and how big your injectors are. This setup is way out dated, I don't see a need at all to run this crap.
I take 20 minutes to convert my car back to OBD2 to get emissions inspected. I don't see what the big fuss is about.
And for the Y7, you just move 2 pins around for the IACV and you are back to stock.
Dammit quit being such a tightwad and buy a damn socketed obd1 computer and a conversion harness and get it tuned..Your car will never pass emissions turbod anyways..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It depends on how much boost you run and how big your injectors are. This setup is way out dated, I don't see a need at all to run this crap.
I take 20 minutes to convert my car back to OBD2 to get emissions inspected. I don't see what the big fuss is about.
And for the Y7, you just move 2 pins around for the IACV and you are back to stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea but even if i convert back to obd2, i wouldn't pass emissions because what would it be tuned by then??? it would be crude as ****
It depends on how much boost you run and how big your injectors are. This setup is way out dated, I don't see a need at all to run this crap.
I take 20 minutes to convert my car back to OBD2 to get emissions inspected. I don't see what the big fuss is about.
And for the Y7, you just move 2 pins around for the IACV and you are back to stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea but even if i convert back to obd2, i wouldn't pass emissions because what would it be tuned by then??? it would be crude as ****
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young noob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yea but even if i convert back to obd2, i wouldn't pass emissions because what would it be tuned by then??? it would be crude as ****
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It will still pass emissions. You have to put your stock injectors back in and it will run just like it was OBD2 and stock again. You obviously can't beat on it, I drove my car for a full week with the stock stuff back in it. I passed emissions without a problem.
yea but even if i convert back to obd2, i wouldn't pass emissions because what would it be tuned by then??? it would be crude as ****
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It will still pass emissions. You have to put your stock injectors back in and it will run just like it was OBD2 and stock again. You obviously can't beat on it, I drove my car for a full week with the stock stuff back in it. I passed emissions without a problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedEj8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea but will he be running a cat?</TD></TR></TABLE>
And he would pass without a cat even if he stayed with the AFC hack?
You obviously have to put whatever was on your car stock, back on.. to a certain point.
And he would pass without a cat even if he stayed with the AFC hack?
You obviously have to put whatever was on your car stock, back on.. to a certain point.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young noob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you say put my stock exhaust manifold on and all that crap, then get it inspected??
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No NO, that is why I said to a point. Like if you need a cat to get the car inspected, obviously.
But you should be able to leave the turbo on there, if they don't care about such things. It just depends on how hard your emissions are.
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No NO, that is why I said to a point. Like if you need a cat to get the car inspected, obviously.
But you should be able to leave the turbo on there, if they don't care about such things. It just depends on how hard your emissions are.
ok, well i would still like to stay obd-2, so what would you rec. as the best set-up for running an obd-2 with 7psi OR LESS, 7psi is my max, thanks guys, and ill be running a cat with 2.5 mandrel bend, probably 3 inch downpipe
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young noob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, well i would still like to stay obd-2, so what would you rec. as the best set-up for running an obd-2 with 7psi OR LESS, 7psi is my max, thanks guys, and ill be running a cat with 2.5 mandrel bend, probably 3 inch downpipe</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't really recommend turboing the car then. Call me whatever you will. I don't believe in hacks, FMUs or anything like that.
But if you really need to know, 450 injectors and a SAFC.
I don't really recommend turboing the car then. Call me whatever you will. I don't believe in hacks, FMUs or anything like that.
But if you really need to know, 450 injectors and a SAFC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young noob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill take your word for it, but why don't you believe in them?
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Think about it for a second.
with a SAFC, how do you control timing.
If you open up any stock honda rom and take a look at the ignition timing, you will see what I mean.
If you use the SAFC to manipulate the MAP voltage, you will be running in a lower load column and actually you will be ADVANCING the ignition timing.
Last time I checked, the proper way was to retard the ignition in boost. The only real way to get around it is with a MSD BTM. But even then you are spending all this money, when a chipped ecu and conversion harness would solve your tuning problems at the same cost.
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Think about it for a second.
with a SAFC, how do you control timing.
If you open up any stock honda rom and take a look at the ignition timing, you will see what I mean.
If you use the SAFC to manipulate the MAP voltage, you will be running in a lower load column and actually you will be ADVANCING the ignition timing.
Last time I checked, the proper way was to retard the ignition in boost. The only real way to get around it is with a MSD BTM. But even then you are spending all this money, when a chipped ecu and conversion harness would solve your tuning problems at the same cost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I take 20 minutes to convert my car back to OBD2 to get emissions inspected. I don't see what the big fuss is about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only problem with an ems basemap is that many times they suck. But in all fairness, you can still destroy a motor with the fmu making it pig-rich.
I take 20 minutes to convert my car back to OBD2 to get emissions inspected. I don't see what the big fuss is about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only problem with an ems basemap is that many times they suck. But in all fairness, you can still destroy a motor with the fmu making it pig-rich.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The only problem with an ems basemap is that many times they suck. But in all fairness, you can still destroy a motor with the fmu making it pig-rich.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And anyone with half a brain cell wouldn't boost/race with a basemap anyway. Tuning is the only way to a decent life expectancy of the motor.
But yes, especially rather low boost, on an FMU, talking like 2-3 psi usually causes a really rich condition.
The only problem with an ems basemap is that many times they suck. But in all fairness, you can still destroy a motor with the fmu making it pig-rich.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And anyone with half a brain cell wouldn't boost/race with a basemap anyway. Tuning is the only way to a decent life expectancy of the motor.
But yes, especially rather low boost, on an FMU, talking like 2-3 psi usually causes a really rich condition.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young noob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn, im thinking twice about boosting now....****</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, Pm me or IM me. It would be easier to discuss there.
Dude, Pm me or IM me. It would be easier to discuss there.


