So either the head is lifting under boost, or the gasket is blown. I am running a Z6 bottom end with a Y5 head btw. Going to use an OEM 3-layer Y8 gasket with copper spray and reusing the stock bolts with a bit of extra torque (no cash for ARPs). I have searched for a write-up, but for some reason can't find one (I was almost sure there would be one somewhere!). I have the 92-95 civic shop manual in PDF form, so it kinda sucks to search for stuff. I couldn't find anywhere where it gave step by step instructions to do this. If anyone has a page number I'd be much obliged. I have done the engine and tranny swap, and installed a custom turbo kit on the civic so I am pretty mechanically inclined. It looks like the hardest part of the install will be getting the crank pulley off. Does anyone have some tips/tricks? Maybe common mistakes that people make so I can avoid them?

 

bump

 

- make sure the surface of the block has NOTHING on it, and make sure its DRY
-clean the head real good, and make sure its DRY when you re-install it onto the block.
- out the head stud holes real good.(compressed air helps, i usually use a blow nozzle, and put a rag over the hole so oil doesnt fly all over the place)
- put assembly lube/oil on the head studs and washers
- torque in sequence and to proper spec.

goodluck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jizzmaster Zero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It looks like the hardest part of the install will be getting the crank pulley off. Does anyone have some tips/tricks? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Here's a tip.................don't take it off. Why would you need to take the crank pulley off to change a headgasket????? Neway, if you REALLY want to take the pulley off the easiest way is to use a pneumatic impact gun with more than 100psi or so behind it. If this is not an option then wedge something in between the middle of the rotor and the caliper (leave the axels in to do this), doing so will not allow the tranny and consequently the crank to move (if it's in gear). After this just use a really big ratchet or breaker bar. gl.

 

I didn't know you could do it without taking the crank pulley off, how's that possible?

 

Set the motor to TDC and then loosen the tensioner, mark the timing belt and slide the timing belt off. Then pull the head. Put the head back on and make sure the cam gears are at TDC and then put the timing belt back on with the marks in the same spot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by King Tut33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Set the motor to TDC and then loosen the tensioner, mark the timing belt and slide the timing belt off. Then pull the head. Put the head back on and make sure the cam gears are at TDC and then put the timing belt back on with the marks in the same spot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome. Would it be easier by zip tying the cam gear to the belt and taking the cam gear off the cam?

 

undo all the timing belt, drive belts, distributor, and all the sensors.

Remove the valve cover, and remove the camshaft.

Remove all the head bolts and pull the head off the block.

Replace the headgasket with a new one, make sure you wipe acetone at all the surface (headgasket must be install dry, no grease, oil or coolant)

Put everything back in the order it was removed.

stan

 

acetone or LAQUER Thinner does the excelent trick

 

what's the take a copper spray gasket. I have to do mine very soon If possible id tell you to get ARP's def worth the $120.00 Try and borrow some $ b.c you will thank yourself later for the extra insurance.

 

I wasn't aware that the cam had to be removed, and I am going to leave all of the sensors plugged in to the intake manifold and just leave that in the engine bay.

 

On B series they have to be removed to reach the head bolts. It might not need to be on a D series.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jizzmaster Zero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wasn't aware that the cam had to be removed, and I am going to leave all of the sensors plugged in to the intake manifold and just leave that in the engine bay.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats a PITA. just unplug them, and pull the coolant hoses off. its easier than taking the intake mani off in the engine bay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats a PITA. just unplug them, and pull the coolant hoses off. its easier than taking the intake mani off in the engine bay.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I've heard from plenty of people it's easier to just leave it in the engine bay. I don't see how it would be a pain in the ***.

Do I or do I not need to remove the cam? I was under the impression that I can just remove the cam gear and take the head of complete.

 

D series do not emove teh cam or rocker assy

 

d series tha cam can stay in...b they cant...it depnds on where the heatbolts are...

 

Ok so here is my plan, please let me know if anything is wrong/unnecessary/could be done easier.

Drain coolant from block, get engine to TDC, disconnect exhaust and intake manifolds (leaving them in the car), upper timing cover is already off, loosen timing belt tensioner (I can do this w/o removing the lower cover correct?) zip tie cam gear to timing belt, remove cam gear and keep tension on belt so it doesn't move down below, remove head bolts in correct sequence, copper spray new gasket and install everything in reverse order, torquing my head bolts a little extra tight.

How does that sound?

 

I just take the timing belt off anyways. Put the car in gear, have someone step on the brake pedal and hit the nut with an impact gun.

I'd throw a set of ARP headstuds on there if you're taking everything apart. You might want to have a spare intake manifold gasket on hand just in case the stock one tears apart while you're pulling the manifold off (mine did). Clean the hell out of the surface to and check with a straight edge to make sure its not warped at all.

 

Again I am NOT taking the crank pulley off.

 

Dont remove the cam or cam gear if you dont have to, but you should remove the coolant hoses and the sensors. They are easy as **** to put back on, it will save you a shitload of work. It is hard enough to try to keep the surface of the head and block both clean, then add on top of that having limited movement because wires are still plugged in...... Just unplug and remove the hoses.
DO NOT remove the pulley, and don't remove the cam if you dont have to just turn the engine to tdc and mark the timing belt then slide the timing belt off.