DragSource

I have seen a few posts similar to this from searching but none addressed what I wanted to ask about.

I will be using a Helms, and a couple buddies as a guide too keep me on track. The block is a Benson sleeved block if that makes any difference (83mm bore) B18B1 block.

Are there any "discrepancies" with what helms says should be done and what should really be done?

In other words - if I follow the helms and check all clearances 500 times, will I be okay?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I would love to pay earl $3000 for the sleeves and bore and parts/assembly through benson (as I'm sure the build would be better), but I take more pride in doing it myself - and I think it makes the hobby more enjoyable to know "how things work".

Thank you in advance folks.

Sonny

The only thing that comes to mind are the piston-to-wall clearances and the ring gaps. They will be larger for forged pistons.

I used the Helms for every part of my build...hasn't let me down.

Sonny

DragSource

Awesome! Great to know! About how much bigger than OEM gaping are we talking?

turboEGhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DragSource &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awesome! Great to know! About how much bigger than OEM gaping are we talking?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whatever your piston spec sheet says on it.

You kept all the spec sheets from everything you bought, right?

DragSource

You betcha

platinum00

if you using stock parts, you the spec from the book, if your using aftermarket, use the spec sheet that comes with the part.

Phil Koury

are you doing it all from beginning to end then? if so check this out and see if it helps...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=814615 &lt; very good engine building thread if you click the first link....

Good Luck!

ScottEK

I'm in your exact same shoes, I have a 84mm AEBS Sleeved GSR in my room with everything ready to go in it. I'm just waiting for spring break (1 week) to start my virgin build. I'm using the Helm's manual and the following link,

If you haven't seen this it's something you're definitly going to want to check out:
http://www.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=326

earl

You should have .003"-.0035" piston to wall clearance, about .018" upper ring and .020" middle ring gaps, .011"-.014" rod side clearance. Most everything else you can go with Helm

Soon_2b_evil

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should have .003"-.0035" piston to wall clearance, about .018" upper ring and .020" middle ring gaps, .011"-.014" rod side clearance. Most everything else you can go with Helm</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats some GREAT INFO right there. i'll make sure i write that down. this is why i love this place.

DragSource

Thank you all very much for the information. . . a lot to take in - Luckily I have a good guide to help me through the rotating assembly for this first build.

platinum00

good luck man.

take you time and double check everything and you should be fine.

for the DIY crew..

W O T

How about a D series guide

turbosi03

dude, I just finished doing what you are about to do definately worth it, and I only used the helms and HT...

bottom rings are much softer metal then top rings so be carfull not to file off too much.

turbodohcsi

if you have trouble timing your car up with the helms (like i did), try doing it this way.

1. loosen up the tensioner bolt
2. set crank and cams to tdc
3. put belt on all three
4. with the tensioner still loose turn the cams 3 teeth till they meet each other again
5. tighten the tensioner
6. rotate crank and cams a few times to make sure it stay timed.

DragSource

You guys all =

I'm feeling much more confident about this already. . . after a short 5-6 hours of reading.

I have only one problem thus far. . . I can not find a "Dial Bore Guage"

Where might I find one of these little bastards?

dasher

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DragSource &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have only one problem thus far. . . I can not find a "Dial Bore Guage"

Where might I find one of these little bastards?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.ne...l#399

dasher

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DragSource &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are there any "discrepancies" with what helms says should be done and what should really be done?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure you follow the aftermarket instructions instead of Helms for installing the ARP/AEBS head-studs.

Do not follow the Helms manual for torquing down rod bolts. Use a stretch gauge method as described in that link.

Do not trust the Stamped codes on the block for the Main journal sizes. Test everything with a calibrated micrometer. Then test it again. After blueprinting the engine, test with plastigauge, to insure that your micrometers are calibrated or you did not make a mistake.

When using a dial bore gauge make sure everything is torqued to spec before taking measurements.

Oil squirters are no longer needed as Helms indicates for B18c engines when using forged pistons. You can tap them and plug them or use Golden eagle oil squirter bolts.

Most important rules---

1) Cleanliness is Godliness.
2) Faith is non-existent. Do not guess or hope. Test everything multiple times and compare.

DaZman69

it may seem overwhelming, but once you start doing it your gonna be thinking wtf this is easy as hell. I had a practice long block one time, i got the valves out, bearings, everything completely dissasembled and put back together with no manual in like 2 hours, spun fine..this was my first time doing it....its easy as hell.

i would never put that motor in my car but you get the point, you should be able to assemble everything to perfection in 3-4hours

DragSource

I'll be starting on this in the next 2 weeks.

My turbo came today. . . I'm getting antsy but don't have all the parts yet, so I haven't touched it.

dasher

Get all the parts first. After you think you have everything and begin working on the car you will need more. Prepare to have a backup ride while waiting for more parts to ship to you.

platinum00

your antsy now..

just wait till you got everything built and your car is just sitting there wating for tuning, and you cant drive it till then

i look in my garage everyday like, should i drive this , should i not.

ScottEK

I'm looking at dial bore gauges, I have an 84mm bore which would mean I would need one that has a 3.3 inch anvil. On boosted hybrid's pics his set goes from 3.2 to 3.4 inch. Is this a problem or can you adjust for the lengths between 3.2 and 3.4 (obviously I've never used a dial bore tool).

ScottEK

I still have this question:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScottEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm looking at dial bore gauges, I have an 84mm bore which would mean I would need one that has a 3.3 inch anvil. On boosted hybrid's pics his set goes from 3.2 to 3.4 inch. Is this a problem or can you adjust for the lengths between 3.2 and 3.4 (obviously I've never used a dial bore tool).</TD></TR></TABLE>

And I was also wondering how you measure bearing clearances without using plastigauge. The only way I could imagine if you do an inside measurment on the area where the crank sits, then measure each of the crank journals and find the difference?

Thanks

ScottEK

bump for answer