A/f gauge installed not working
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A/f gauge installed not working
i installed my a/f gauge its an autometer in my 97 integra LS, when i turn the car on and drive the lights just start to fly back and forth, they dont stay in place, my car is not turbo yet just stock
#2
Re: A/f gauge installed not working (boostinteg777)
WIthout wideband O2, A/F ratio gauge is useless,
http://www.streetrays.com/cata.../2970
http://www.streetrays.com/cata.../2970
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Re: A/f gauge installed not working (boostinteg777)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostinteg777 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i installed my a/f gauge its an autometer in my 97 integra LS, when i turn the car on and drive the lights just start to fly back and forth, they dont stay in place, my car is not turbo yet just stock</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is working just fine. That is what they are supposed to do. Good luck tuning it with that guage.
It is working just fine. That is what they are supposed to do. Good luck tuning it with that guage.
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Re: A/f gauge installed not working (underpressure02)
the only time you'll get a "true" reading with that gauge is at WOT - the lights should hover in a certain area indicating rich, lean, or stoich. not very accurate to say the least.
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Yep, sounds like it's doing what it's supposed to do.
The af gauge is useful for a few things (don't even think of trying to tune with it)
1.) lets you know when the ecu is in closed (lights reciprocate), or open loop (lights are steady)
2.) lets you know when your O2 sensor is not functioning properly (if the reciprocation is slow, it should be fast back and forth with a healthy sensor)
3.) lets you know when your ECU is in "limp" mode (the lights don't reciprocate when they should be.)
The Honda ECU is normally in closed loop at less than ~72% throttle angle, higher than that it will be in open loop.
The af gauge is useful for a few things (don't even think of trying to tune with it)
1.) lets you know when the ecu is in closed (lights reciprocate), or open loop (lights are steady)
2.) lets you know when your O2 sensor is not functioning properly (if the reciprocation is slow, it should be fast back and forth with a healthy sensor)
3.) lets you know when your ECU is in "limp" mode (the lights don't reciprocate when they should be.)
The Honda ECU is normally in closed loop at less than ~72% throttle angle, higher than that it will be in open loop.
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Re: (boostinteg777)
OBD2 ECU's will dance the whole time. It only stays steady at WOT. It will read rich under load at WOT. If you use certain programs, the light will be steady (ex. PYR) but not all of them.
My A/F results:
Stock OBD2 - Light show, sweeps the entire time, rich @ WOT regardless of AFC setting.
OBD1 w/PYR - Very precise. No movement, very steady.
OBD1 w/ uberdata - pretty steady at partial throttle and WOT. Sweeps while cruising.
My A/F results:
Stock OBD2 - Light show, sweeps the entire time, rich @ WOT regardless of AFC setting.
OBD1 w/PYR - Very precise. No movement, very steady.
OBD1 w/ uberdata - pretty steady at partial throttle and WOT. Sweeps while cruising.
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