To start things off you might remember me asking if 700hp was attainable with the setup i had posted. Well sorry to say im back.
Scince then i have gone to erick aguilar from ericks racing and inqiured he expertise. My goal has change to 700hp to i hope somewhere near 600hp. here are the specs!

B18c1
sleeved with darton open deck sleeves
stock crank just micropolished and balanced
crower rods
85 mm pistons @9.1 comp
fluidampr
type r water & oil pump
new tensioner
toda timing belt
endyne breather kit

b18c1
built by alaniz
ported and polished
welded combustion chamber
bronze valve guides
.5mm oversized valves
alaniz ti retainers with springs
gsr cams
cam gears not sure yet
poerted and polished matched jg intake manifold
ericks racing 72-70mm throttle body

stock ignition

b16 tranny with ls 5 gear
type r lsd
tilton twin disk clutch

fuel has not been discussed with erick but any advice will be appreciated!

i've been looking at full race turbo kits above 550 and not sure which would give me a good power curve and low rpm spool!

sorry for the essay but had to put details. thanks for looking and the advice!

 

Sounds like you have your mind already made up but you are doing a lot of things wrong, IMO.

 

care to share what is wrong with the setup?

 

i would say the throttle body is unnecessary or way too big

 

?????


why would you start with that big of a bore.....thats really pushin it..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erebunicrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">care to share what is wrong with the setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

he didnt buy it from him. haha


j/k

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfab &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he didnt buy it from him. haha j/k</TD></TR></TABLE>haha
I didn't want to get into knocking something publically but I will say that starting a turbo block at 85mm makes no sense at all. Also, I guess everyone knows I am not a Crower rod fan because of all the problems I see with the small ends of those rods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha
I will say that starting a turbo block at 85mm makes no sense at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know of some extremely fast turbo B series cars running 85mm bore...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I know of some extremely fast turbo B series cars running 85mm bore...</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you know who your talking too, be careful tony

 

Why do people run LS 5th gears in b16 tranny's when you still use the 4.4 FD. wont crusing rpms be at most 400rpms less because you still using such a tight FD?

 

FI FIGHT! FI FIGHT! FI FIGHT!

Hope you reach your goal one way or the other.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I know of some extremely fast turbo B series cars running 85mm bore...</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1 The only downside is you have less sleve material to work with if you thrash a sleeve

 

this is what i dont understand. Here on honda tech people say not to run with eagle rods at high boost. secondly a couple people that i know said that their rods snapped at pushing 22lbs of boost. so which one is it crower or eagles?
plus ERE had built a 500+ hp turbo gsr with darton open deck sleeves running 85mm and still daily driven today! so im pretty sure that erick aguilar knows what he is doing!

 

If you are a seasoned veteran, you can run 85mm boosted. However, the originator of this post is an obvious nube or he would not be asking for help. One slip of the tune-up and his 85mm block is history. I would start the guy at 81.5mm. He will still make enough power to blow the tires off the car, IMO

 

I'd start him at at least 83mm. If you blow up enough times to trash an 83mm block, you should be out of the game anyways. lol

 

I would skip the cylinder head work on the first go around, as 600whp is definitely doable on a stock head. You can always throw on a ported head if your not satisfied with 600-650whp.

Justin

 

i understand that the bigger bore equals less sleeve material which would probably ending up in buying new sleeves. what i dont understand is why people still do it then. Yes tuning is the heart of the motor but if its done right there should be no problem. a couple people here have done it. Please note i still have some clue of whats going on! I just figured the bigger displacement will then give me more power so i dont have do boost so high!

 

Parts fail and tune ups fail. What happens then?
Turn the boost up one extra pound and you will make up for a MM of bore.

 

More displacement really helps spool a turbo better, which allows you to run a bigger turbo and make more power. I'm pretty sure you can get the head to flow more with a bigger bore by unshrouding the valves as well. Yeah, you can run more boost and get the same peak numbers, but i think the better powerband of the bigger bore is definitely worth doing.

 

i'm currently at 85mm on my GE sleeves due to the fact i dropped a valve last year when it was 84mm. i just recently had it tuned at 28lbs. i'm confident it will last and see no reason why it should fail. i still would start at 84mm to give you some room for a failure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd start him at at least 83mm. If you blow up enough times to trash an 83mm block, you should be out of the game anyways. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
I started with an 81.5 mm block and am up to 84.5 mm and bought a backup just incase! Does this mean I should have given up along time ago or should i have dropped the car off to you?

 

haha, that means you're doing something wrong!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I know of some extremely fast turbo B series cars running 85mm bore...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree with what earl and tony both say, but here is what i think, 85mm gives you no room to go over if anything happens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd start him at at least 83mm. If you blow up enough times to trash an 83mm block, you should be out of the game anyways. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Every build is different depending on what you are planning to do.
rip84delsol: I dont know what your goals are, but for a goal of anything over 500hp, is for someone that wants to put down some good numbers on the track, and/or want to build something that is very competitive.

If you are just going to be a street car, this setup is way overkill.

Every customer that calls us, we always do a consultation on what is best for their goals. Not every engine build will require a full head work, a simple recondition with upgraded valvetrain is good enough for low hp.
The way I see it is like how women come in to get boob jobs or plastic surgery, the doctor asks questions and finds out if the requested service fits the patient. Its kinda like a customer asking how to build a daily driven setup strong enough to put a GT42R thats just used for freeway driving. You just dont do that, its way to big. Kinda like putting EE ***** on a 95lb import model.