Engine Building: Tips and Tricks
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From: Now in SoCal, CA, USA
Re: (dasher)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Most rods manufactures instruct that you can get away with using a torque wrench if you use their specially formulated arp lubricant..... DON'T DO THIS! Every single time you torque the down the rod bolt you stretch it ... and you are going to have to torque it down once or twice to measure the clearances before finally tightening them down. I have tested this and found inaccurate readings from using a calibrated torque wrench and their lubricant.
Purchase a stretch gauge tool for 69.99(minimum) and measure each bolt individually(preloaded to .04"), 0 out the gauge, then slowly tighten down the bolt while taking periodic measurements with the stretch gauge. It usually take me 5 measurements per bolt to get the right stretch. If you decide to purchase a cheaper stretch gauge tool place a small amount of epoxy to help secure the gauge to the clamp, mine originally shifted before I fixed it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm... great info! I'm wondering about the stretch gauge, are you saying that method you described is more accurate then using a torque wrench? or are you still using the torque wrench in conjunction with the stretch gauge? if the the stretch gauge is used alone, how do you convert torque specs into a reading on that gauge?
If this method is in fact more accurate, then should I use it on other bolts that would otherwise be torqued down with a torque wrench, or is this only useful for the rod bolts?
sorry for so many questions and my confusion
Most rods manufactures instruct that you can get away with using a torque wrench if you use their specially formulated arp lubricant..... DON'T DO THIS! Every single time you torque the down the rod bolt you stretch it ... and you are going to have to torque it down once or twice to measure the clearances before finally tightening them down. I have tested this and found inaccurate readings from using a calibrated torque wrench and their lubricant.
Purchase a stretch gauge tool for 69.99(minimum) and measure each bolt individually(preloaded to .04"), 0 out the gauge, then slowly tighten down the bolt while taking periodic measurements with the stretch gauge. It usually take me 5 measurements per bolt to get the right stretch. If you decide to purchase a cheaper stretch gauge tool place a small amount of epoxy to help secure the gauge to the clamp, mine originally shifted before I fixed it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm... great info! I'm wondering about the stretch gauge, are you saying that method you described is more accurate then using a torque wrench? or are you still using the torque wrench in conjunction with the stretch gauge? if the the stretch gauge is used alone, how do you convert torque specs into a reading on that gauge?
If this method is in fact more accurate, then should I use it on other bolts that would otherwise be torqued down with a torque wrench, or is this only useful for the rod bolts?
sorry for so many questions and my confusion
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Somewhere in, FL, USA
Re: (turbosi03)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosi03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hmm... great info! I'm wondering abuot the stretch gauge, are you saying that method you described is more accurate then using a torque wrench? or are you still using the torque wrench in conjunction with the stretch gauge? if the the stretch gauge is used alone, how do you convert torque specs into a reading on that gauge?
If this method is in fact more accurate, then should I use it on other bolts that would otherwise be torqued down with a torque wrench?
sorry for so many questions and my confusion
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Using a stretch gauge is much more accurate and consistant then a torque wrench ....
You do not convert anything into torque specs... instead of measuring the amount of torque placed on a bolt you are measuring the amount the bolt stretches... included in the instructions of the after market rods you purchased their should be listed both the torque specifications using their lube and the Bolt stretch specifications...
Measuring bolt stretch is actually quite a simple principle ... the inherent strength of the bolt lies in the amount of stress which is placed on the threads ...
Using a torque wrench is not an accurate tool to place the correct amount of stress on the threads for the following reasons:
1) Click torque wrenches need to be calibrated periodically
2) Different lubricants have varying viscosities , using a thinner viscosity lubricant will cause the bolt to stretch more and cause more fatigue .. using a stretch guage doesn't have this problem because you are directly measuring the amount of stress which is placed on the bolt -- which allows you the ability to measure with any lubricant.
3) Every single time one torques down a bolt you are stretching it ... every wonder why some really old bolts tend to snap? A torque wrench does not account for the change in structural fatigue the bolts go through, it simply places a set amount of torque on the bolt, unlike a stretch guage which will compensate for the fatigue the bolt has endured by reaching the desired amount of stretch at an earlier torque level.
4) Dirt or gunk in the threadings will cause the torque wrench to achieve the desired torque setting earlier, while using a stretch gauge will compensate for the added friction found inside the threading and wont reach the set stretch limit until a later torque setting which places the right amount of tensile strength on the bolt.
5) Every bolt un-torqued bolt I had started off with a different length (very small difference) , a stretch gauge measure the change in length so the starting bolt length doesn't effect the measurement as long as you measure each bolt individually, RIGHT BEFORE, you torque it down.
One could use a micrometer also to measure stretch , instead a stretch guage.... the reason you would want to use a stretch guage is because rod bolt manufactures conveniently place a dimple in the top and bottom of the bolts for the spring loaded guage to slip into ... which helps with consistency....
It would be better if all the bolts in the engine where torque down with a stretch guage ... its just not necessary and pretty difficult because the Helms manual does not include the desired amount of stretch for every bolt ...
hmm... great info! I'm wondering abuot the stretch gauge, are you saying that method you described is more accurate then using a torque wrench? or are you still using the torque wrench in conjunction with the stretch gauge? if the the stretch gauge is used alone, how do you convert torque specs into a reading on that gauge?
If this method is in fact more accurate, then should I use it on other bolts that would otherwise be torqued down with a torque wrench?
sorry for so many questions and my confusion
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Using a stretch gauge is much more accurate and consistant then a torque wrench ....
You do not convert anything into torque specs... instead of measuring the amount of torque placed on a bolt you are measuring the amount the bolt stretches... included in the instructions of the after market rods you purchased their should be listed both the torque specifications using their lube and the Bolt stretch specifications...
Measuring bolt stretch is actually quite a simple principle ... the inherent strength of the bolt lies in the amount of stress which is placed on the threads ...
Using a torque wrench is not an accurate tool to place the correct amount of stress on the threads for the following reasons:
1) Click torque wrenches need to be calibrated periodically
2) Different lubricants have varying viscosities , using a thinner viscosity lubricant will cause the bolt to stretch more and cause more fatigue .. using a stretch guage doesn't have this problem because you are directly measuring the amount of stress which is placed on the bolt -- which allows you the ability to measure with any lubricant.
3) Every single time one torques down a bolt you are stretching it ... every wonder why some really old bolts tend to snap? A torque wrench does not account for the change in structural fatigue the bolts go through, it simply places a set amount of torque on the bolt, unlike a stretch guage which will compensate for the fatigue the bolt has endured by reaching the desired amount of stretch at an earlier torque level.
4) Dirt or gunk in the threadings will cause the torque wrench to achieve the desired torque setting earlier, while using a stretch gauge will compensate for the added friction found inside the threading and wont reach the set stretch limit until a later torque setting which places the right amount of tensile strength on the bolt.
5) Every bolt un-torqued bolt I had started off with a different length (very small difference) , a stretch gauge measure the change in length so the starting bolt length doesn't effect the measurement as long as you measure each bolt individually, RIGHT BEFORE, you torque it down.
One could use a micrometer also to measure stretch , instead a stretch guage.... the reason you would want to use a stretch guage is because rod bolt manufactures conveniently place a dimple in the top and bottom of the bolts for the spring loaded guage to slip into ... which helps with consistency....
It would be better if all the bolts in the engine where torque down with a stretch guage ... its just not necessary and pretty difficult because the Helms manual does not include the desired amount of stretch for every bolt ...
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From: OH
Re: Engine Building: Tips and Tricks (dasher)
Heres my contribution from my experience
1 and most important rule of them all!!
1-MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS COMPLETELY, AND IMPECABLE CLEANNNNN
i can not emphasize how important this is
2- make sure u check ea and one of all bearings clearances with plastigate
3- make sure u got all parts togheter before starting something
4- mark all bolts and parts from wich they came out, u dont want to miss match after an engine has already been used (ex head bolts)
mark ea part from where they came for future study and knoledge of the engines problems+wear+life+problems
5- follow all the instructions, dont do **** by (i think is right)
6- be organized, u will get pist when u cant find a tool
7- make sure everything is done with proper time, dont rush anytthing... time and careful building leads to flawless results
1 and most important rule of them all!!
1-MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS COMPLETELY, AND IMPECABLE CLEANNNNN
i can not emphasize how important this is
2- make sure u check ea and one of all bearings clearances with plastigate
3- make sure u got all parts togheter before starting something
4- mark all bolts and parts from wich they came out, u dont want to miss match after an engine has already been used (ex head bolts)
mark ea part from where they came for future study and knoledge of the engines problems+wear+life+problems
5- follow all the instructions, dont do **** by (i think is right)
6- be organized, u will get pist when u cant find a tool
7- make sure everything is done with proper time, dont rush anytthing... time and careful building leads to flawless results
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,620
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From: orange county, ca
Re: (dasher)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do not recomend people try to build their engine to save money... The amount of money I have invested in the right tools is incredible ... not to mention the time ...
... It is much better and cheaper to send the block to an engine builder you can trust then to try to do it yourself , unless you enjoy learning and working on it yourself as a hobby like I do...</TD></TR></TABLE>
surely the tools needed is under the $500 some people charge for block assembly? that is, a non-race block with stock sleeves.. i want to build my ls block and a friends vr6, both <500whp. maybe a list would help..
... It is much better and cheaper to send the block to an engine builder you can trust then to try to do it yourself , unless you enjoy learning and working on it yourself as a hobby like I do...</TD></TR></TABLE>
surely the tools needed is under the $500 some people charge for block assembly? that is, a non-race block with stock sleeves.. i want to build my ls block and a friends vr6, both <500whp. maybe a list would help..
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From: Somewhere in, FL, USA
Re: (XDEep)
the tools cost much more than 500 dollars ... if you havent invested in any tools yet... I have about 3000 dollars invested in tools ... at least ... now if you have been purchasing tools here and there over the years already its a different story...
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From: Now in SoCal, CA, USA
Re: (dasher)
wow man, answered my questions to a Tee... 
thanks a lot for this great info. glad you guys got my back for this adventure, I will measure as many bolts as I can with a stretch gauge (I wonder if this could be done to the arp head studs?). maybe it's still worth using a (gauge type) torque wrench to see how that correlates to the stretch gauge measurements... ?
also,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XDEep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
surely the tools needed is under the $500 some people charge for block assembly? that is, a non-race block with stock sleeves.. i want to build my ls block and a friends vr6, both <500whp. maybe a list would help.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
here's a great list posted by boosted hybrid:
"The list of tools that you'll need to do a proper bottom end assembly are the following:
1. Dial bore gauge
2. Rod stretch gauge tool
3. Micrometer
4. 3-4" machinist measurement tool
5. 2-3" machinist measurement tool
5. Plastic gauge
6. Torque wrench
7. Feeler gauges
8. Ring filer
9. Tap set
10. Ring compressor
Other supplies that you'll need are:
1. Brake Kleen
2. Credit card/plastic straight edge
3. Arp bolt assembly lube
4. Clevite bearing lubricant
5. SAE 30 wt oil"
here's the link I snaged it from with a lot more great info!
http://www.boosted-hybrid.com/viewtopic.php?t=326
Modified by turbosi03 at 1:30 AM 4/15/2004
thanks a lot for this great info. glad you guys got my back for this adventure, I will measure as many bolts as I can with a stretch gauge (I wonder if this could be done to the arp head studs?). maybe it's still worth using a (gauge type) torque wrench to see how that correlates to the stretch gauge measurements... ?
also,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XDEep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
surely the tools needed is under the $500 some people charge for block assembly? that is, a non-race block with stock sleeves.. i want to build my ls block and a friends vr6, both <500whp. maybe a list would help.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
here's a great list posted by boosted hybrid:
"The list of tools that you'll need to do a proper bottom end assembly are the following:
1. Dial bore gauge
2. Rod stretch gauge tool
3. Micrometer
4. 3-4" machinist measurement tool
5. 2-3" machinist measurement tool
5. Plastic gauge
6. Torque wrench
7. Feeler gauges
8. Ring filer
9. Tap set
10. Ring compressor
Other supplies that you'll need are:
1. Brake Kleen
2. Credit card/plastic straight edge
3. Arp bolt assembly lube
4. Clevite bearing lubricant
5. SAE 30 wt oil"
here's the link I snaged it from with a lot more great info!
http://www.boosted-hybrid.com/viewtopic.php?t=326
Modified by turbosi03 at 1:30 AM 4/15/2004
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 1
From: orange county, ca
Re: (dasher)
oh ya i forgot to mention i have all the basic stuff, just no measuring or machinists tools.
ive read boosted hybrid's already (in fact i thought this was him again), i just wanted to hear more opinions.
ive read boosted hybrid's already (in fact i thought this was him again), i just wanted to hear more opinions.
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Brooklyn, NY, USA
Re: (turbosi03)
You can get away with not having to buy a number of these tools-
the only ones that I needed were:
torque wrench
plastigage
feeler gauge
ring compressor
and of course assembly lube
for the others- you can many of the measurements from the machine shop that does work on your block. I've found that a number of places don't mind you taking a close interest in what's going on and will generally help you out if you fill them in on your project.
I say buy a Helms and follow it. It isn't "hard" to build an engine if you just follow the directions.
Ben
the only ones that I needed were:
torque wrench
plastigage
feeler gauge
ring compressor
and of course assembly lube
for the others- you can many of the measurements from the machine shop that does work on your block. I've found that a number of places don't mind you taking a close interest in what's going on and will generally help you out if you fill them in on your project.
I say buy a Helms and follow it. It isn't "hard" to build an engine if you just follow the directions.
Ben
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Posts: 1,842
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From: Somewhere in, FL, USA
Re: (Bnjmn)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bnjmn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can get away with not having to buy a number of these tools-
the only ones that I needed were:
torque wrench
plastigage
feeler gauge
ring compressor
and of course assembly lube
for the others- you can many of the measurements from the machine shop that does work on your block. I've found that a number of places don't mind you taking a close interest in what's going on and will generally help you out if you fill them in on your project.
I say buy a Helms and follow it. It isn't "hard" to build an engine if you just follow the directions.
Ben
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are absolutely correct for the most part ... plastigauge can be " good enough" for most people ....
2 exceptions though:
1) Unless you want to risk rod bolt failure a stretch guage in absolutely necessary. I tested the amount of stretch using the manufactures lubricant and a calibrated torque wrench, and every bolt was off(the torque wrench method was over tightening each bolt which places more stress on the bolt). Most of the time when people have rod bolt failure they blame it on the quality of the rods , citing " eagle rods suck" or " I should have upgraded to the 5/16" eagle rod bolts".... when in fact the failure was due to incorrect installation.
2) Filing the rings by hand is dangerous and time consuming ... you want to make sure you file the rings perfectly level to avoid problems ... I recommend getting a ring filer.
the only ones that I needed were:
torque wrench
plastigage
feeler gauge
ring compressor
and of course assembly lube
for the others- you can many of the measurements from the machine shop that does work on your block. I've found that a number of places don't mind you taking a close interest in what's going on and will generally help you out if you fill them in on your project.
I say buy a Helms and follow it. It isn't "hard" to build an engine if you just follow the directions.
Ben
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are absolutely correct for the most part ... plastigauge can be " good enough" for most people ....
2 exceptions though:
1) Unless you want to risk rod bolt failure a stretch guage in absolutely necessary. I tested the amount of stretch using the manufactures lubricant and a calibrated torque wrench, and every bolt was off(the torque wrench method was over tightening each bolt which places more stress on the bolt). Most of the time when people have rod bolt failure they blame it on the quality of the rods , citing " eagle rods suck" or " I should have upgraded to the 5/16" eagle rod bolts".... when in fact the failure was due to incorrect installation.
2) Filing the rings by hand is dangerous and time consuming ... you want to make sure you file the rings perfectly level to avoid problems ... I recommend getting a ring filer.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 1
From: orange county, ca
Re: (dasher)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You are absolutely correct for the most part ... plastigauge can be " good enough" for most people ....
2 exceptions though:
1) Unless you want to risk rod bolt failure a stretch guage in absolutely necessary. I tested the amount of stretch using the manufactures lubricant and a calibrated torque wrench, and every bolt was off(the torque wrench method was over tightening each bolt which places more stress on the bolt). Most of the time when people have rod bolt failure they blame it on the quality of the rods , citing " eagle rods suck" or " I should have upgraded to the 5/16" eagle rod bolts".... when in fact the failure was due to incorrect installation.
2) Filing the rings by hand is dangerous and time consuming ... you want to make sure you file the rings perfectly level to avoid problems ... I recommend getting a ring filer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how much was the torque wrench off by? and whats the stock spec btw.
You are absolutely correct for the most part ... plastigauge can be " good enough" for most people ....
2 exceptions though:
1) Unless you want to risk rod bolt failure a stretch guage in absolutely necessary. I tested the amount of stretch using the manufactures lubricant and a calibrated torque wrench, and every bolt was off(the torque wrench method was over tightening each bolt which places more stress on the bolt). Most of the time when people have rod bolt failure they blame it on the quality of the rods , citing " eagle rods suck" or " I should have upgraded to the 5/16" eagle rod bolts".... when in fact the failure was due to incorrect installation.
2) Filing the rings by hand is dangerous and time consuming ... you want to make sure you file the rings perfectly level to avoid problems ... I recommend getting a ring filer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how much was the torque wrench off by? and whats the stock spec btw.
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Re: Engine Building: Tips and Tricks (TurboTegB18c)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboTegB18c »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DO NOT use those block fittings They will suck oil into the catchcan. ALOT Of oil. I was on a budget and couldn't afford the endyn fitting and made a BIG mistake. Me and MR. ARturbo had a conversation about this and the fittings need to have an anti-siphon tube on it to avoid the oil sucking. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I see a lot of this happening and when I made a comment I got flamed for saying it wasnt the same fitting. I see alot of cars at the track with their own homemade catch can set up and they have oil in their engine bay. I tried to help someone at the track and he responded back to me in a negative way. I tried to help....
DO NOT use those block fittings They will suck oil into the catchcan. ALOT Of oil. I was on a budget and couldn't afford the endyn fitting and made a BIG mistake. Me and MR. ARturbo had a conversation about this and the fittings need to have an anti-siphon tube on it to avoid the oil sucking. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I see a lot of this happening and when I made a comment I got flamed for saying it wasnt the same fitting. I see alot of cars at the track with their own homemade catch can set up and they have oil in their engine bay. I tried to help someone at the track and he responded back to me in a negative way. I tried to help....
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Somewhere in, FL, USA
Re: (XDEep)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XDEep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how much was the torque wrench off by? and whats the stock spec btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it would overtighten each bolt anywhere between 1-7 ft/lbs depending on the bolt...
how much was the torque wrench off by? and whats the stock spec btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it would overtighten each bolt anywhere between 1-7 ft/lbs depending on the bolt...
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From: Somewhere in, FL, USA
Re: Engine Building: Tips and Tricks (Arturbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I see a lot of this happening and when I made a comment I got flamed for saying it wasnt the same fitting. I see alot of cars at the track with their own homemade catch can set up and they have oil in their engine bay. I tried to help someone at the track and he responded back to me in a negative way. I tried to help.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you for commenting on this Art ... so epoxying/ welding a tube in the center is the solution??? ... If I didn't already own the moroso catchcan I would have bought from Larry ... but I already own one.
I see a lot of this happening and when I made a comment I got flamed for saying it wasnt the same fitting. I see alot of cars at the track with their own homemade catch can set up and they have oil in their engine bay. I tried to help someone at the track and he responded back to me in a negative way. I tried to help....
</TD></TR></TABLE>thank you for commenting on this Art ... so epoxying/ welding a tube in the center is the solution??? ... If I didn't already own the moroso catchcan I would have bought from Larry ... but I already own one.
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From: Virginia, US
Re: (dasher)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I already posted the places above to purchase all your precision measuring tools at the cheapest prices ...
If your asking about regular tools ... I recommend going to sears and purchasing On of the larger Craftsman Tool kits for big $'s
Why ??... if you purchase cheap tools at home depot you will end up breaking them and having to constantly replace them ... and craftsman tools have a lifetime waranty and are the cheapest of the high quality tools out there ... Snap-on is better ... but who has that type of money....
Don't buy too small of a tool kit .... spend the big money up front ... its expensive when you buy the sockets or tools individually ... and if you are going to do any any serious work on cars you are going to need them all .... its cheaper in the long run to buy them in bulk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep and while your there get a good set of punches. If you dont you end up going through screwdrivers pretty fast.
I already posted the places above to purchase all your precision measuring tools at the cheapest prices ...
If your asking about regular tools ... I recommend going to sears and purchasing On of the larger Craftsman Tool kits for big $'s
Why ??... if you purchase cheap tools at home depot you will end up breaking them and having to constantly replace them ... and craftsman tools have a lifetime waranty and are the cheapest of the high quality tools out there ... Snap-on is better ... but who has that type of money....
Don't buy too small of a tool kit .... spend the big money up front ... its expensive when you buy the sockets or tools individually ... and if you are going to do any any serious work on cars you are going to need them all .... its cheaper in the long run to buy them in bulk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep and while your there get a good set of punches. If you dont you end up going through screwdrivers pretty fast.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Somewhere in, FL, USA
Re: (Dublocivic)
hehe 
... I have snapped so many flat heads screwdrivers its not even funny...
... yesterday I snapped a 1/2" 6 inch socket extender ... the expensive black ones for high torque air compressor tools which are supposedly unbreakable..... then Again I was using a 4 foot cheater bar on it..
... I have snapped so many flat heads screwdrivers its not even funny... ... yesterday I snapped a 1/2" 6 inch socket extender ... the expensive black ones for high torque air compressor tools which are supposedly unbreakable..... then Again I was using a 4 foot cheater bar on it..
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From: Virginia, US
Re: (dasher)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hehe ... I have snapped so many flat heads screwdrivers its not even funny...
... yesterday I snapped a 1/2" 6 inch socket extender ... the expensive black ones for high torque air compressor tools which are supposedly unbreakable..... then Again I was using a 4 foot cheater bar on it.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have found that anything will break with a long enough pipe on the end of a breaker bar. Sheesh I went through 2 1/2 breaker bars just trying to get the axles out of the last swap I did... but they were Craftsman and the were replaced for free.
Obtw I also recomend getting a 3/4 sliding breaker bar with a 1 1/4 drive for those pesky axels.. comes off like butta.
... I have snapped so many flat heads screwdrivers its not even funny... ... yesterday I snapped a 1/2" 6 inch socket extender ... the expensive black ones for high torque air compressor tools which are supposedly unbreakable..... then Again I was using a 4 foot cheater bar on it..
</TD></TR></TABLE>I have found that anything will break with a long enough pipe on the end of a breaker bar. Sheesh I went through 2 1/2 breaker bars just trying to get the axles out of the last swap I did... but they were Craftsman and the were replaced for free.
Obtw I also recomend getting a 3/4 sliding breaker bar with a 1 1/4 drive for those pesky axels.. comes off like butta.
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Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,842
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From: Somewhere in, FL, USA
Re: (Dublocivic)
yeah thats exactly what i broke it on... damn axle nuts...
... wasn't it Archimedes that said "give me a long enough lever and something to pivot it on and I could move the world with my own force."
... wasn't it Archimedes that said "give me a long enough lever and something to pivot it on and I could move the world with my own force."
Re: (XDEep)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XDEep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how much was the torque wrench off by? and whats the stock spec btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tested this a couple of times and using the torque wrench understretched it a few ten-thou I believe. I'm no longer 100% sure what the figure was b/c that was a few months ago and I didn't keep the measurement recordings. I'll have to test it again some time.
how much was the torque wrench off by? and whats the stock spec btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tested this a couple of times and using the torque wrench understretched it a few ten-thou I believe. I'm no longer 100% sure what the figure was b/c that was a few months ago and I didn't keep the measurement recordings. I'll have to test it again some time.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,120
Likes: 3
From: Irvine, CA, usa
Re: (IN VTEC)
I am really enjoying this thread. I would love to see more people building their own blocks. I want to give you guys a tip on ring gaps:
When filing or grinding your gap, only work with one side of the ring. This way when you put the ring in the bore for gap size checking, you can also check to see if your gap is parallel. It does no good if one side of your gap is .010" and the other side is .020". Also when you are done filing and your gap is perfect, you need to deburr the end you just filed. If you do not do this, the ring will not be able to fit smoothly in the ring land. You will loose compression in that spot and could scar your cylinder. To check your deburring, just slide the ring in the land (from the outside, do not install it on the piston) and see if it slides smoothly. If it does not, you need to deburr some more.
Remember the middle ring is much softer than the upper. Do the middle rings first(before doing the uppers) and be gentle with it. It is much easier to take material off a ring than it is to put it back on
When filing or grinding your gap, only work with one side of the ring. This way when you put the ring in the bore for gap size checking, you can also check to see if your gap is parallel. It does no good if one side of your gap is .010" and the other side is .020". Also when you are done filing and your gap is perfect, you need to deburr the end you just filed. If you do not do this, the ring will not be able to fit smoothly in the ring land. You will loose compression in that spot and could scar your cylinder. To check your deburring, just slide the ring in the land (from the outside, do not install it on the piston) and see if it slides smoothly. If it does not, you need to deburr some more.
Remember the middle ring is much softer than the upper. Do the middle rings first(before doing the uppers) and be gentle with it. It is much easier to take material off a ring than it is to put it back on
