ladysman

Well, I mounted my catch can today. I wanted to thank Dasher for the idea of mounting where the harness was. With the Endyn Can, you can't just use the holes where the harness support was. It sits too tall although the holes line up perfectly like it was meant for it.

I used felt pad to keep noise to a minimum preventing the can from hitting the shock tower. This stuff can withstand some heat so I am not worried about melting or anything.



Anyway, I started with it looking like this.




I then decided it was to close to the battery even though the reinforced line is hard to kink so I moved it more towards the front of the car.



Here I just rebent the bracket and put more loom on the harness. As if a Catch Can came with the car in 1992.




Now my question is, where my fingers are putting the 2 lines together is where I was planning on making the "T" for the drainback. Is that high enough? Looking at my daily drivers which is a 4 door EX, it should be plenty but I wanted to make sure.



All in all, it is a very solid mount and should be noise free with minimal vibration as I put rubber behind the clamp so metal isn't touching metal at all.

Any other comments?

Oh and the black return line is being replaced as well for clear reinforced line.


Update

I decided to scratch how I mounted it in favor of a more secure route.

Now, really the only thing I did was move from little self threading screws to stainless monsters.





Hood Clearance


Sweet Pic here.


All of the little holes I drilled as seen here


are filled with this stuff.

Good stuff, highly recommend filling firewall holes too.

And lastly, I decided not to do the drainback so I routed it down through by the sway bar. This work you think?


And finally, a sneak peak of my dad's 8 second monster.



Modified by ladysman at 11:09 PM 5/20/2004

FredoSP

looks good!!

So you just drilled 2 holes?, Im sure you test this, but it clears the hood and it wont effect your post intercooler to throttle body piping?

good job

Kelly.

looks good..

J337_UNIT

looks great

I plan on getting one when i build my next motor

PrecisionH23a

If those are the water lines from home depot, get rid of them. After heatsoaked they will collapse then you'll start to smoke at idle and a little under load.

KingDsi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If those are the water lines from home depot, get rid of them. After heatsoaked they will collapse then you'll start to smoke at idle and a little under load. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, get rid of them. They suck for the engine compartment, as I will be replacing mine from collapsing.
They have good burst strength, however suck for keeping form, especially when bent AT ALL and heated (as in engine bay).

Arturbo

Yes, use the hoses that came with the kit.

KamikazeSol

After some issues with my Endyn set-up, i was told by the guys at Endyn that the T should be as close to the block as possible. At first mine smoked a bit becuase of having the T in about the same spot you want to put it in. Now the T is right off the block and the lines need to be as tight as possible to make sure it works properly. Once I changed mine I have not had any issues yet. I may even run a seperate drian line to the front of the oil pan and connect the drian to it. I e-mailed Larry at Endyn and he said the seperate line would work, but it should go the front of the pan. He did not seem happy about me questioning the design, but it just seemed to be a better idea to have a dedicated drian, rather than to share one of the other lines. At this point, i figured what was one more bung welded in to the oil pan.

dasher

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If those are the water lines from home depot, get rid of them. After heatsoaked they will collapse then you'll start to smoke at idle and a little under load. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Funny ... Ive been running those same exact lines in 2 of my cars for years with 0 problems --- and they go through some extreme abuse in my engine bay since my welded sidewinder heats up my engine bay very quickly....

Their are 2 different lines sold at Home depot , the clear water lines are weak and will collapse and soften when exposed to heat .. the high temp reinforced ones as shown in the pic are fine ..

ladysman

Thanks for the complements and help.

Fredo,
I didn't have the charge pipe with me but will bring it tonight. Looks like it will fit fine.


That is the fiber reinforced line that Larry and other use and said I could use. I was using it so I could see any oil.

So I should ditch this line altogether? The crap seems inpossible to squeeze.

Yes, I drilled two holes in the wheel well and screwed it in.

I planned to get more lines today for the drain but looks like i will use what came with it. Agree?

That would be $10 in my pocket for beer then.


Edit: Yes it clears the hood no problem. I thought I took a picture of the clearance but I didn't.

1 bad thing is when I was test fitting, I dented the hood. It can be easily fixed though.

dasher

On 94-01 tegs or 92-95 civics you usually can mount the Moroso catchcan directly to the stock holes WITHOUT drilling new ones perfectly ... I have done this with great results to a integra and civic... The problems comes when using Larrys modified catchcan .. from studing the pics it looks like he welds the mounting bracket 1.5 inches lower than the normal Moroso cans so he can use an extra fitting ...

dasher

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the complements and help.

That is the fiber reinforced line that Larry and other use and said I could use. I was using it so I could see any oil.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

.. naw don't listen to me or Larry .. we don't know what we are talking about

Sinitron

Nice job!

That's exactly where I put mine too... seemed like a good spot once the harness was shoved over a bit.

DD_JonnyLee

damn good looking install
-jonny

jDMJeRk

Just curious; why do you upgrade catch cans? What does it do for you. Thanks

CRX T-Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious; why do you upgrade catch cans? What does it do for you. Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Research baby, research.

Anyone have a disected pic of the Moroso catchcan?? I wanted to see how they put the baffles inside.

Nice setup and I agree with Dasher, you should have mounted it using the stock mounting bolt holes. lot nicer and stronger. I hate drilling holes in the frame. If not then you should look into the rivet nuts(I think thats what their called).

jDMJeRk

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Research baby, research.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow you almost answered my question, jackass

I ran across a post so I figured Id ask; its not like I made a thread about it, jesus what is ht coming to?

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Nice setup and I agree with Dasher, you should have mounted it using the stock mounting bolt holes. lot nicer and stronger. I hate drilling holes in the frame. If not then you should look into the rivet nuts(I think thats what their called). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude, READ yourself. It doesn't fit with those locations. Let me help you:
With the Endyn Can, you can't just use the holes where the harness support was. It sits too tall although the holes line up perfectly like it was meant for it

Holes are a big deal if you fill them with strip caulk when done.

dasher

yep ... Moroso can -- stock holes , no drilling
Endyn - -- have to make new holes in that location

of coarse with the moroso can you have to add another fitting yourself for 2 inlets...

CRX T-Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wow you almost answered my question, jackass

I ran across a post so I figured Id ask; its not like I made a thread about it, jesus what is ht coming to?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The time it took ya to type jackass you would have gotten your answer. Catchcans are not new here if you click Search instead of Reply I wouldn't have type Bitch.

I will be cool about it so I'll hook ya up on the thread that has a really good explanation https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=75734

And my bad on the screw thing Ladysman

HNDAPWR

Do catch cans work for any motor/induction set-up? Would it be benifical for me to run one with my JRSC.(JRSC is supposedly notorious for detonation at high psi)

ladysman

I updated this thread as I redid it again today.....for the last time.

jDMJeRk

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The time it took ya to type jackass you would have gotten your answer. Catchcans are not new here if you click Search instead of Reply I wouldn't have type Bitch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I apprecaite the help; thanks! Know I understand how they work.

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

Looks good man