I currently have a Rank1Racing short tubular manifold. I have since wondered if I wouldnt benefit from an equal length manifold. I am shooting for ~325whp on a D16, and looking over the archives it seems this might be a bit of a feat. So when I saw that Full-race gained 43 whp off an equal length mani over a log, I got quite interested in it. However then I began to ask my self, why couldn't I just run 5 or so more PSI with my log mani to compensate? I can't seem to think of a reason why, so if you know, or know another reason why I should go EL, let me know.

 

Or you can buy the equal length mani and still run the extra 5psi......

If its in your budget I dont see why not, unless you have other lacking parts of your build.

Id just pick up a tubular mani and upgrade other pieces, bigger turbo, intake manifold, 3" DP, cam...

Depends how deep your pockets go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or you can buy the equal length mani and still run the extra 5psi......

If its in your budget I dont see why not, unless you have other lacking parts of your build.

Id just pick up a tubular mani and upgrade other pieces, bigger turbo, intake manifold, 3" DP, cam...

Depends how deep your pockets go</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont mind spending the money, but my budget is relative to what I will gain.

Heres the break down of my setup-
Z6 block, Y8 head.
Crower I-beam Rods
SRP 9.1:1 forged pistons
Hondata S200b
Precision 880cc injectors
Walbro 255
JRC Intercooler- 25 wide X 7.75 tall X 2.75 deep
Tial Wastegate + BOV
Garrett T3/T04e 50 trim .60/.63 w/ HPC turbine coating

So I will have a completely stock head, and will have to have the DP made custom, so a 3 inch won't be a problem. I would rather not run nitrous but anything else is on the table.

 

I need some opinions.

 

If you have a goal of 3xx hp, then turn the boost up untill you hit your desired goal since you have a built motor. I see no reason to get a new mani. since you already have one that can get you where you want to be.

 

Yeah, thats what I was wondering, I think it boils down to the simple fact that EL's make power. As do cam's, P&P's, 3 inch DP's, etc etc. You could basically up the boost to compensate for the power you dont have without these mods, but in the end, it's still power you dont have.

 

Well I still think an Equal length is way overdoing it for your setup, you may see a descent gain going from a log -&gt; equal length but Im sure the gain from a tubular manifold -&gt; equal length is very minimal and you can get nice tubulars for $300

Id rather spend the money on

Delta 272 Cam - $180
MSD 6BTM Ignition - $240
Tubular Manifold - $285-$345

So thats like $800 or less and thats about what equal length's go for right? And youll def see better gains and use of use with the MSD with its rev limiters and such

Im like that though, I like that have everything done nicely, not 4-5 pieces that are low end so I could save money and 2 great pieces like a SC61 and 3" exhaust

Are you looking for more than 300whp? I dunno when the oem valves give way but you might wanna look into that. The headwork is what I feel I went overboard on but Ive got plenty of room to go bigger hp if I want.

 

I actually already have a short tubular mani from Rank 1 Racing.

I thought about doing the head work route, I would probably just put a really fat cam in it (its purely a drag car) then just valve springs. The street/strip Zex cam seems to be very popular, I might give it a shot, but I'm wondering if I couldnt get away with something more agressive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I still think an Equal length is way overdoing it for your setup, you may see a descent gain going from a log -&gt; equal length but Im sure the gain from a tubular manifold -&gt; equal length is very minimal and you can get nice tubulars for $300

Id rather spend the money on

Delta 272 Cam - $180
MSD 6BTM Ignition - $240
Tubular Manifold - $285-$345

So thats like $800 or less and thats about what equal length's go for right? And youll def see better gains and use of use with the MSD with its rev limiters and such

Im like that though, I like that have everything done nicely, not 4-5 pieces that are low end so I could save money and 2 great pieces like a SC61 and 3" exhaust

Are you looking for more than 300whp? I dunno when the oem valves give way but you might wanna look into that. The headwork is what I feel I went overboard on but Ive got plenty of room to go bigger hp if I want.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point about the valves....I would def. throw the extra cash an EL mani. would cost toward building the head, b/c you are going to have to rev the **** out of a D16 to get to 325 - 350 wheel.

 

Just looking the prices over, a Zex cam and their valve springs is like $400, which will probably only net 20whp, I may as well get a nitrous kit for $100 more. What does everyone think about that?

Should I be considering valve springs just becuase I will be running high boost? Or are they only for higher than stock RPM levels?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just looking the prices over, a Zex cam and their valve springs is like $400, which will probably only net 20whp, I may as well get a nitrous kit for $100 more. What does everyone think about that?

Should I be considering valve springs just becuase I will be running high boost? Or are they only for higher than stock RPM levels?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can just upgrade the valve springs and retainers, allowing you to rev higher, thus acheiving the 300 + HP levels you are shooting for, b/c on a D16, you will probably need to rev higher than stock redline.

 

But Im not sure if the stock cam will pull any higher than stock....

 

A stock cam stops making power before redline, so either do them all or do none of them I guess

Ive got a Zex dry kit for sale with bottle heater/purge and pressure gauge. Only want $400 shipped for it

If its purely a drag car there are los of other things to look into

stiff *** springs in the rear
OBX lsd's can be ad for $325
nice wheel/slick combo

**** these cars cost a lot of money eh, Im the same way, have to win, spend whatever possible to make this craving happy

 

Well the nitrous kit would help w/ spooling and peak power. Im pretty sure the Zex cam will only make peak power, but still not that much, maybe 20whp.

I already have a welded diff, slicks, and drag springs.

This goes back to my relative budget on this one... 50-75whp for 500 or 20whp for 400. The choice is obvious there, but Im worried about my powerband.

A cam and valve springs would allow me to rev pretty damn high and make more power through RPM's, however I'm not so sure how much I will get over those extra RPM's. I know I will only make about 20 directly off the cam, which isnt great.

Nitrous on the other hand would help spool the turbo and make awesome peak power on the powerband I have available.

 

dont forget the gobbers of torque

Hope you can tune though, for a full race setup + high boost + nitrous...

Would be fun to say the least

 

Darin at Titan will be tuning it. With Hondata S200b and it's nitrous controls I dont think it will be an issue. So you think thats the route to go?

 

wih that turbo you'll probably want to rev a little bit higher that stock redline so i would go with the valvetrain and cams.

 

Even a short tubular style manifold flows TONS better than the weld-el manifold the full race test was comparing to the equal length.

 

The other thing I have began to worry about is timing. The new idea about SOHC head gasket issues is that people are running too much timing, and that causes too much cylinder pressures which causes trouble. The nitrous is only going to increase cylinder pressures even more. The Hondata nitrous controls are set up for dry systems, which I am not very comfortable with.

Assuming this turbo will have a good deal left in it past the stock redline that may also be a good way to go (cams + springs). If I can rev past stock and still have the turbo pulling hard then that is effectively like spooling faster on a stock RPM engine with nitrous, you are just increasing the power band one way or another.

 

And when should I start worrying about bearings?

 

Im leaning towards the cam/springs.

Why? I'm worried about the size of my powerband. Yes, nitrous will eliminate turbo lag, and make good peak power, but that lag is only going to be there during first gear. So if I do the cams/springs then I can increase my redline and spend more time in the powerband/each gear. Make sense?