It would be best to do a complete engine leakdown test to make sure that everything is okay. In your particular case, it's hard to imagine the plugs, the ignition, or the tuning to be the cause because you have mentioned that there were no major misfires. I have seen motors that weren't properly built or something inside the motor prematurely failed that could cause similar results though. It could be from a couple of valves not seating correctly or even the engine not being degreed correctly when being put back together and cause the cam timing to be way out of whack. Just some ideas to check for...

 

here i am gonna try to post my dyno sheet I cant get the image inhere from my pc i can email the sheet to anyone who needs to see it


Modified by PreludeSiTdriver at 5:18 AM 1/10/2005


Modified by PreludeSiTdriver at 5:28 AM 1/10/2005

 

For hondata, set fuel pressure to 60psi and then begin tuning, definitely get rid of the platinum's (they are bad for boost), take a look at your ignition map.....and if you can post the file because I would like to take a look at it (it may be too retarded). HP from fuel tuning is not that much.....HP from ignition timing is sooo much more. What boost do you plan on running, because 7psi definitely isn't going to get you to 350whp. I'd be willing to bet it is the ignition maps.

 

Ugh, that graph looks bad Looks like when VTEC kicks in everything goes to hell.

I'd personally pull the wastegate spring or even the whole turbo, dyno again n/a and that'll eliminate half of the variables.

I don't think 450s are going to be enough for 350whp... that'll be pushing it though like the guy above said 60psi base fuel pressure would help you get there.

 

looks like the cam timing is off

 

all timing is set at 0. So i can run it no boost at all see what it dynos in at that? Then add the boost? As for the fuel, when on the dyno, hondata shows it having plenty of fuel just wont push out any power. if goes extreamly rich. Could this be a faulty vtec soliniod?

 

the reason that it is going extreamly rich is because your boost is dropping off and there is suppost to be a lot more fuel for 7psi than for atmosphearic preasure. my friend had the same problem with his 2.4 turno neon...same turbo...he made 400whp with 400cc injecters...he had a major boost leek. hed hit 5psi then it would stay and his fuel would keep rising...making him go rich. then again he was using a SFMU. pressure test your pipes and what type of BOV are you using...he was using a turboXS BOV and it was leaking out of all 6 holes while the valve was closed. i also noticed that your graph shows a lot of bouncing at vtec hits...internal or external wastegate. my friends wastegate braket was bending as the turbo would head up and it would make the actuator open and close at anything higher than 5psi...after he fixed all the leaks and got a greddy type s he could run 20psi no prob...so let me know on that stuff and im sure everyone here would apreciate more info as would i.... GL man.

 

Wow that graph has mad spikes I'd check for boost leak your getting to 200 + but it drops your turbos spooling but it keeps spiking because it cant hold pressure.

 

I am gonna go with bigger injectors. The 450 are fine for now I dont wanna just have an all out 450hp from the door. I never had a car with that much power, so i need to take it easy. The plugs are now 1step cooler ngk, i am gonna try to get the wires today for the msd and get that done. I will be cheaking for boost leaks throughly around all the cooler piping. I did find that one vacume line that goes to the runners was disconcted. I put it on, took it for a ride and it seemed a lot stronger. Maybe its wishfull thinking i guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fidelity &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the reason that it is going extreamly rich is because your boost is dropping off and there is suppost to be a lot more fuel for 7psi than for atmosphearic preasure. my friend had the same problem with his 2.4 turno neon...same turbo...he made 400whp with 400cc injecters...he had a major boost leek. hed hit 5psi then it would stay and his fuel would keep rising...making him go rich. then again he was using a SFMU. pressure test your pipes and what type of BOV are you using...he was using a turboXS BOV and it was leaking out of all 6 holes while the valve was closed. i also noticed that your graph shows a lot of bouncing at vtec hits...internal or external wastegate. my friends wastegate braket was bending as the turbo would head up and it would make the actuator open and close at anything higher than 5psi...after he fixed all the leaks and got a greddy type s he could run 20psi no prob...so let me know on that stuff and im sure everyone here would apreciate more info as would i.... GL man.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That wouldn't happen with a Hondata, fueling is based on intake manifold pressure, so unless full boost was reaching the manifold the boost maps wouldn't even be referenced at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreludeSiTdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all timing is set at 0. So i can run it no boost at all see what it dynos in at that? Then add the boost? As for the fuel, when on the dyno, hondata shows it having plenty of fuel just wont push out any power. if goes extreamly rich. Could this be a faulty vtec soliniod? </TD></TR></TABLE>

All timing is set at 0??? Do you mean that every number on the ignition tables in the RomEditor is at 0? If so, that's not right and could be a major reason for your troubles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

All timing is set at 0??? Do you mean that every number on the ignition tables in the RomEditor is at 0? If so, that's not right and could be a major reason for your troubles.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe he is talking about his cam timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreludeSiTdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bottom end:

Crower PRO-billet connecting rods
JE Forged Pistons
Honda Bearings and thrust washers
Prodrive/Circuitworx billet oil pump
ARP main and head studs, washers and nuts.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

wait, I thought you couldn't run forged pistons with stock h22 sleeves. . . .

 

No no the motor is sleeved. Yes the timing and cams are set to 0. Today I founf a vacum line that goes to the back of the intake mani came off. I beleive is the one for the runners. Could that have been a big problem or just a minor one? Again I will be getting some msd wires today to hook up my sci hope this works out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreludeSiTdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Yes the timing and cams are set to 0. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the ignition timing can not be set to 0 if i understand you right then that is your prolblem

 

Yep I agree fully with you b16h22a.....the cam time should be set to 0, but the hondata program needs to have numbers other than all 0's.

 

yeah that is where it was set to the flywheel because its a lightweight fly. so the timing mark on the wheel is 0. then the cams are set to 0 also. what should i do in this situation then?

 

Well, today jan 15 2005 went back to see Mark at Turbo Tune in Greensboro North Carolina. We hook up my car to the Dyno again and after gutting the cat, it gained 10hp. That is per Dyno results. However, still not where the car should be. We then hooked up the MSD and then it actually gained about 2-4hp more. Stil didnt fix the problem we are having. Well, there was a guy there as well who helps Mark out everynow and then if I knew his info I would put it out also but I dont. Anywho, he checked the timing and that freaking thing was off by one tooth. Now with that said, can that cause vtec to drop when it engages? Cause as you can see on the Dyno sheet itself at vtec it just ***** the band. tanks

 

if your belt is off one tooth then thats probably your problem. stick with it and youll figure it out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16h22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like the cam timing is off</TD></TR></TABLE>

as i said before the cam timing was indeed off. yes this can cause a major power loss

 

was it off a tooth on the crank?? or at the cams?? there is alot of difference there

 

I will also agree with cam timing...there is too much overlap in VTEC, so boost is being blown out of the exhaust ports before it is combusted.

Notice how before VTEC the power curve is smooth, but when you hit VTEC everything goes haywire...

 

dam that is definantely your problem. Isn't one tooth like over 9 degrees?

 

Turbo size in specs?

i have seen this happen before a t3/t04e .48 stage 2 wheel

with the drag manifold, it was causing to much back pressure and not make power pass vtec , a h22 needs a big turbine to make power . its like when vtec come in it cant push the exhaust out fast enough to make power

What i think it lies in the turbo and manifold!

only thing u can do to make sure take the turbo and manifold off and put the stock header back on open down pipe and tell him to give u a allmotor base map for 450cc's on a h22 and put it on the dyno and see if the motor make 160whp by it self

 

It's a faulty dyno