Dyno Not so good
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Charlotte County, FL, USA
Ok, I have been talking about getting my car dynod and well finaly did. The runs were shitty I dont even want to talk about it. But i need too because I need imput and if anyone has had this problm if they are built turbo. I have a built motor from top to bottom, running hondata s200 boost option. Well I went tuning today and got no where. I am suppose to be atleast in the 350whp range and didnt even get over 200 I had 159hp and 189 tq. WTF is wrong here?!?! The place I took it too was Turbo Tune in Greensboro NC. The botom end has great power and fuel, once vtec hits it just takes a ****. I mean no power from vtec at all. Well, we then let her cool down and redid a valve lash on the valves. After that was done, it lost 4hp. We are both puzzled by this and thought wtf again. Well, the only things I have to install on my car are the msd 6a system with coil. He sated that it may be a clogged cat or bad distributor. What other things should I check out? I am gonna gut the cat tomorrow and put on the msd. Any help is good thanks
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Charlotte County, FL, USA
I am not to sure about the misfire thing. I didnt notice any miss firing going on. Just at top end the vtec kicks in at 5k and then it gets phat
Hey..honestly it seems like you're more disappointed at the tuner than the performance of your car. Mark is good guy and he TOO dynoed and tuned my hatch. Don't blame your bad tuning session on him because he was not the one that put your car together. At first, my initial dyno run was lousy, but at the end of the day...I was very satisfied. You cannot complain too much when you can drive out of there making 120hp+ more than you came in with .... with a few hours of good tuning. Just double check on your components and maybe you should be able to find out any problems that have may occurred.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Charlotte County, FL, USA
I was not blaming anyone about the tune hommie. I said if you read that we both were like wtf. I was there all day with mark. Mark is an awesome guy. He does not dick around. He did alot of things to help me out today. In no point in my post did I say he screwed me. Mark help me out big time. We were just trying to figure out why it wasnt putting out what it was suppose to be. Why the hp dropped when the valve lash was adjusted to book specs.
That is why he told me gut the cat because he thinks its being restricted or clogged put in the msd, and see if I can run another distributor and see if that helps. I just wanted to know if there is anything else that I should look for because i was there from 930 am until maybe 7 730 at night working with mark to figure this out.
Also to add a question here, when you have abuilt motor do you valve lash when its hot or when its cold. We were both under the impressio htat honda motors have to be cold to get the valve lash done.
That is why he told me gut the cat because he thinks its being restricted or clogged put in the msd, and see if I can run another distributor and see if that helps. I just wanted to know if there is anything else that I should look for because i was there from 930 am until maybe 7 730 at night working with mark to figure this out.
Also to add a question here, when you have abuilt motor do you valve lash when its hot or when its cold. We were both under the impressio htat honda motors have to be cold to get the valve lash done.
Did your chart look anything like this...?
just an example chart but I'm guessing yours might look like this..
This is a fine examlpe of falling flap on it face....
just an example chart but I'm guessing yours might look like this..
This is a fine examlpe of falling flap on it face....
I had the same problem with my turbo setup on stock b18c1 internals. Boosting 8 lbs. but had boost leak and would only hold 5.5 lbs. after 6000rpm. Only dyno 170 hp. I dunno. Maybe I was getting choked with the stock cat and the comptech 2.25 in. exhaust.
I'm waiting til summer to try to take care of the problem.
I'm waiting til summer to try to take care of the problem.
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what sparkplugs you running and whats your gap? any boost or intake manileaks? what kinda exhaust you running after the downpipe?
Well...from what you were stating in your initial post...that was how I came upon it..homie. But anyways, how was the oil pressure during the session? You might already be aware of this.. but VTEC does rely on good oil pressure. The other thing I can think of is the condition of the spark plugs, plug wires, plug gap...maybe a faulty VTEC solenoid? Check the things Mark mentioned and let us know how things go with the next dyno. Better post up some good numbers....or else!!! j/k
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From: Charlotte County, FL, USA
the spark plugs are the ngk r platniums, the gap was at 28 then changed to 25. The exhuast i am guesing it is still like 2.25, not sure. But I am gonna try to run open down pipe to see what happens with that tomorrow
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lol trust me man I am looking forward to getting the numbers posted. I think i am gonna dyno again friday or next saturday. The oil pressure was good the intake temp was like 99-101, the vtec you can hear it kick on its freaking loud. The plugs are new the wires I am gonna hcnge tomorrow when i put the msd in.
damn man, i am guessing by your sn that you have a prelude...and 159 w.h.p. on a h22 is pretty bad. by any chance have you checked the compression on your motor? what kind of turbo are you running? by the numbers you gave, it seems as though your turbo is not even spooling. check your compression and the turbo...i really dont think a restrictive exhaust would cause those kind of numbers, unless your cat was totally clogged.
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From: Charlotte County, FL, USA
The motor is a brand new everything fully built. the compression is a 9.1:1 je pistons. I am gonna gut the cat in a few just waiting for my friend to get home and then gonna install the msd as well. I will keep you all informed on the results. Thanks all for your help and feedback I am thankful for all
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From: the internet and I WILL STEP ON YOU
interested to find out whats wrong. probably a dumb question, but long has the motor setup been together, broken in etc? good luck with everything. btw, its definitly not the tuner
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreludeSiTdriver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the spark plugs are the ngk r platniums</TD></TR></TABLE>
!! Get those out of there ASAP. Platinum plugs SUCK for boost, they're too hot. Get some non platinum NGK's a heat range or two colder.
You havn't even told us the turbo you're running, or even how much boost you're running, so it's pretty damn vague trying to help you other than that.
!! Get those out of there ASAP. Platinum plugs SUCK for boost, they're too hot. Get some non platinum NGK's a heat range or two colder.
You havn't even told us the turbo you're running, or even how much boost you're running, so it's pretty damn vague trying to help you other than that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
!! Get those out of there ASAP. Platinum plugs SUCK for boost, they're too hot. Get some non platinum NGK's a heat range or two colder.
You havn't even told us the turbo you're running, or even how much boost you're running, so it's pretty damn vague trying to help you other than that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree about the plugs. Get regular NGK's. Although I don't think this is all the problem, this will help. We also need to know what heat range you are running. Try 7's and work your way up for more power.
I also agree that we need more info.
!! Get those out of there ASAP. Platinum plugs SUCK for boost, they're too hot. Get some non platinum NGK's a heat range or two colder.
You havn't even told us the turbo you're running, or even how much boost you're running, so it's pretty damn vague trying to help you other than that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree about the plugs. Get regular NGK's. Although I don't think this is all the problem, this will help. We also need to know what heat range you are running. Try 7's and work your way up for more power.
I also agree that we need more info.
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From: Charlotte County, FL, USA
ok this is my setup turbo is a t3/to4e turbonectics hybrid, drag manifold, 2.5 downpipe. I gutted the cat today didnt notice any difference not even in the sound.
Bottom end:
Crower PRO-billet connecting rods
JE Forged Pistons
Honda Bearings and thrust washers
Prodrive/Circuitworx billet oil pump
ARP main and head studs, washers and nuts.
Crankshaft is trick chamfered, micropolished and checked for out-of-round, straightness and journal sizing then balanced . Oil clearances are 0.0022" on the main journals and are 0.0018" on the rod journals.
Cylinder head:
Honda Type S Cams
16 Crower racing valve springs and titanium retainers
8 Crower exhaust stainless valves 0.5 mm O/S
8 Crower intake stainless valves 0.5 mm O/S
valve stem seals (high temperature on the exhaust)
Skunk2 cams gears, other brands available.
complete Superflow flowbench developed cylinder head work, port shaping, blend and massage the valve pockets Intake finish is appropriate to its purpose....the exhaust pockets get mildly ported , and blended polished exhaust ports
Cometic head gasket
Honda Gaskets and seals throughout.
Greddy max performance timing belt, and new Honda water pump, new tensioner bearings
Engine balanced, blueprinted
450 dsm injectors, hondata s200 w/boost, 255 walboro fuel pump, aem fuel rail
with b&m FPR, and only runing at 7lbs of boost when we were tunning the car. It is still at 7 because I dont know whats wrong. I will get those plugs out tomorrow. Thaks
Modified by PreludeSiTdriver at 4:30 AM 1/10/2005
Bottom end:
Crower PRO-billet connecting rods
JE Forged Pistons
Honda Bearings and thrust washers
Prodrive/Circuitworx billet oil pump
ARP main and head studs, washers and nuts.
Crankshaft is trick chamfered, micropolished and checked for out-of-round, straightness and journal sizing then balanced . Oil clearances are 0.0022" on the main journals and are 0.0018" on the rod journals.
Cylinder head:
Honda Type S Cams
16 Crower racing valve springs and titanium retainers
8 Crower exhaust stainless valves 0.5 mm O/S
8 Crower intake stainless valves 0.5 mm O/S
valve stem seals (high temperature on the exhaust)
Skunk2 cams gears, other brands available.
complete Superflow flowbench developed cylinder head work, port shaping, blend and massage the valve pockets Intake finish is appropriate to its purpose....the exhaust pockets get mildly ported , and blended polished exhaust ports
Cometic head gasket
Honda Gaskets and seals throughout.
Greddy max performance timing belt, and new Honda water pump, new tensioner bearings
Engine balanced, blueprinted
450 dsm injectors, hondata s200 w/boost, 255 walboro fuel pump, aem fuel rail
with b&m FPR, and only runing at 7lbs of boost when we were tunning the car. It is still at 7 because I dont know whats wrong. I will get those plugs out tomorrow. Thaks
Modified by PreludeSiTdriver at 4:30 AM 1/10/2005
If you are aiming for 350whp you better run some high *** fuel pressure with those 450cc injectors. You'll most likely peak them out (80%ish duty cycle) around 300ish whp on 44psi of fuel pressure. Once you figure out what your problem is, I would replace them with a larger flowing injector.
As for spark plugs, run the NGK 3330's gapped to about .025. Have you done a compression or cylinder leakdown test yet?
When setting valve-lash, the motor should not be bone-cold. It should be warm. Keep in mind when metal gets hot it expands. So if you set the lash when cold you will have different clearances once the metal has expanded.
As far as your power is concerned, how much are you looking at making? It seems as if you went overboard with the build in certain area's and skimpt out in other area's that are going to restrict your power. If it were me I would probably run the stock H22 cams opposed to the type S's. I may be incorrect... but I'm thinking the type s's have a larger amount of overlap when compared to the stock ones. I'm too lazy to get the info in the garage right now. Something is definetely off though... my bet is it lies in the engine.
As for spark plugs, run the NGK 3330's gapped to about .025. Have you done a compression or cylinder leakdown test yet?
When setting valve-lash, the motor should not be bone-cold. It should be warm. Keep in mind when metal gets hot it expands. So if you set the lash when cold you will have different clearances once the metal has expanded.
As far as your power is concerned, how much are you looking at making? It seems as if you went overboard with the build in certain area's and skimpt out in other area's that are going to restrict your power. If it were me I would probably run the stock H22 cams opposed to the type S's. I may be incorrect... but I'm thinking the type s's have a larger amount of overlap when compared to the stock ones. I'm too lazy to get the info in the garage right now. Something is definetely off though... my bet is it lies in the engine.




