Driving Style: N/A vs. FI
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: San Antonio, Tx
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Driving Style: N/A vs. FI
NOt sure if this is a dumb question or not, but is there any significant differences when driving an N/A and FI car? I used to drive a moderately upgraded EG (B16) and now I'm boosting. Before, I used to redline at 8900, thats when my HP starts dropping according to the dyno chart. I also did a lot of downshifting. But now I redlined at 6500 and afraid to downshift.
My question is, how do you safely drive when racing a FI car? How high do you take it? Anything else I should know about driving a FI car?
It also seems that I have a problem with the car. If I leave it in neutral and the clutch is fully in or when in gear and the clutch is fully in while the car is moving, the car will die. This has happened 3 times within the last month. A friend of mine said it could be the ECU or the wiring. Any ideas?
Modified by twenty6 at 1:03 PM 10/13/2003
My question is, how do you safely drive when racing a FI car? How high do you take it? Anything else I should know about driving a FI car?
It also seems that I have a problem with the car. If I leave it in neutral and the clutch is fully in or when in gear and the clutch is fully in while the car is moving, the car will die. This has happened 3 times within the last month. A friend of mine said it could be the ECU or the wiring. Any ideas?
Modified by twenty6 at 1:03 PM 10/13/2003
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Driving Style: N/A vs. FI (twenty6)
does the idle drop when your driving? like to a stop sign and it boggs kinda?. something maybe dirty. i don't know if honda's have the same thing as rx-7s but when the clutch is in teh BAC valve (bypass air control valve) suppose to open up allowing air in WHILE THE THROTTLE is closed. IAC? i think for hondas not too sure.
if your car is tuned right, then it sounds like it should be ok to take it all the way. my friend's gs-r is ls/vtec turbo, and boost all the way to 5k-9k stock injectors and fmu. t3/t04e turbo ~9psi.
make sure u retard the timing and other essential things you suppose to do with MAP base cars, you should be fine up to redline. if you feel that your car is not making power after 6.5k then you have a small turbo.
-- until you hear somethign wrong or different with ur engine at high rpm then you should start worrying.
down shift should be alright, but downshift is always harsh on the tranny, now turbo it should be more harsh. it's up to you. slow downshift doesn't hurt the tranny, but fourth to second pop clutch! that does alot.
if your car is tuned right, then it sounds like it should be ok to take it all the way. my friend's gs-r is ls/vtec turbo, and boost all the way to 5k-9k stock injectors and fmu. t3/t04e turbo ~9psi.
make sure u retard the timing and other essential things you suppose to do with MAP base cars, you should be fine up to redline. if you feel that your car is not making power after 6.5k then you have a small turbo.
-- until you hear somethign wrong or different with ur engine at high rpm then you should start worrying.
down shift should be alright, but downshift is always harsh on the tranny, now turbo it should be more harsh. it's up to you. slow downshift doesn't hurt the tranny, but fourth to second pop clutch! that does alot.
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