Downpipe problem...=\
Well i finally got my downpipe in and was test fitting it on my t3...i noticed that the angle for the pipe was pretty extreme...so extreme that i cant get a bolt in it...
Anyone got any suggestions? Studs?
TIA!
-Raymund
Modified by Infinity_Racer at 2:05 PM 8/19/2003
Anyone got any suggestions? Studs?
TIA!
-Raymund
Modified by Infinity_Racer at 2:05 PM 8/19/2003
I've had that exact same problem on many turbo setups when retaining Air conditioning. My best 1st hand informnation is to say screw it and just run the other 4 bolts. If you look closely at the pics, you can notch it out 1st and try a very short stud. Then grind it down a little bit, but even then getting a nut in there looks nearly impossible.
My 0.2
M
My 0.2
M
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monicle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">return it and have them give you one that will fit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or call them and ask how the hell you're supposed to fit anything through there.
Or call them and ask how the hell you're supposed to fit anything through there.
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If you cut a groove in the botom of the hole.. then put the bolt in the turbo so its almost tight.. Then slide it over the bolt and tighten the rest of the way.. That should work out ok for you.. Look like you might need to grind the weld down a little. Who made that downpipe?
i had this problem only not QUITE as extreme with my maxrev, i just put a stud into the turbo side, and then used a nut.
however it looks like you don't even have that much room, just run 4/5 bolts, you should be fine.
however it looks like you don't even have that much room, just run 4/5 bolts, you should be fine.
If you look at most any a/c compatable 2.5" downpipe for that manifold and a 5 bolt Turbo housing, you'll see that it has the same problem. Because of the space restrictions, there really isn't anything you can do about it. However, if you use the other 4 bolt holes, you will not have problems with exhaust leakage, and that's a tried and true fact. The whole point of a 5 bolt flange was to accomidate a swing valve assembly for an internal wastegate, so all of those bolts aren't nessicary for simply holding and sealing the downpipe.
yeah it is a swiftperformance downpipe...and i was thinking about running the 4 bolts, but was concern about any exhaust leaks or something similar...i'll try grinding at it a bit and getting a stud, but do you guys recommend some kind of gasket to maybe help it "seal" better?
i would return it, but i cannot afford any more delays as it took me a while to get this piece alone...
TIA
i would return it, but i cannot afford any more delays as it took me a while to get this piece alone...
TIA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Infinity_Racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah it is a swiftperformance downpipe...and i was thinking about running the 4 bolts, but was concern about any exhaust leaks or something similar...i'll try grinding at it a bit and getting a stud, but do you guys recommend some kind of gasket to maybe help it "seal" better?
i would return it, but i cannot afford any more delays as it took me a while to get this piece alone...
TIA
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's certainly not a problem with the DP itself, it's a nice quality part, there is just simply no way to cure the problem with that last bolt. If you want to get rid of A/C then you can use a more gradual bend and have easy access to that last bolt.
Just wanted to calrify that the DP is fine and it's not a manufacturing flaw or defect etc.
HTH
Mark
i would return it, but i cannot afford any more delays as it took me a while to get this piece alone...
TIA
</TD></TR></TABLE>It's certainly not a problem with the DP itself, it's a nice quality part, there is just simply no way to cure the problem with that last bolt. If you want to get rid of A/C then you can use a more gradual bend and have easy access to that last bolt.
Just wanted to calrify that the DP is fine and it's not a manufacturing flaw or defect etc.
HTH
Mark
cool i'll try 4 bolts with some kind of liquid gasket on that part or something...
John should get it done soon...he's been busy with a bunch of orders and he burned himself severly...i waited about 3 weeks for mine...
Thanks for the help guys
John should get it done soon...he's been busy with a bunch of orders and he burned himself severly...i waited about 3 weeks for mine...
Thanks for the help guys
The issue of not being able to fit in the 5th bolt isn't a matter of quality, its a matter of weather or not a downpipe to those specs can be made in such a way at all of the bolts can be used, and it simply can't.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnisenglish »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The issue of not being able to fit in the 5th bolt isn't a matter of quality, its a matter of weather or not a downpipe to those specs can be made in such a way at all of the bolts can be used, and it simply can't.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sometimes (a lot of times) I weld it with the bolt in there... it won't come out once it's welded but it still turns obviously. It's tough, but obviously helps in the end.
Sometimes (a lot of times) I weld it with the bolt in there... it won't come out once it's welded but it still turns obviously. It's tough, but obviously helps in the end.
Same ting happened to me. You just have to get a bolt small enough so it can be wedge in there but still log enough to reach the threads on the turbo or I have also seen people run with no bolt in there.
Why not runa stud in all of the holes if not just that one. It will be alot weasier o squeeze a nut in there than a bolt. Just a suggestion
I bought 5 studs, nuts,a lwashers for mine yesterday. Fit was great on a revhard downpipe
I bought 5 studs, nuts,a lwashers for mine yesterday. Fit was great on a revhard downpipe


