E85. nah.... its not race fuel, regardless of octane.

 

Thanks for the links. Them Blue print sleeves look beefy! Thats a serious consideration! I was reading up on the Golden Eagle posts about people having problems with the main bearing alignment after they are sleeved. Anyone have any input on those sleeves if they have problems with mains after there sleeved? It really wouldnt be good to spend on that kinda money and have to spend more ontop to make the block workable.


I do want to think everyone for there contributing inoformation for me. I know it is difficult with "noobs" on forums but you guys been most helpful on giving some direction on where to go with this build.

So we have narrowed down so far:
-sleeved block seems to be a must
-fuels 93 oct and race gas (110)
-Type r or gsr cams ( which is great that there drop in cams) i will consider other options mentioned like skunk2 pro cams i think they were. I will have to do more research on those


Has anyone hit over 500hp on stock intake manifold or is that a must.. any port work?

 

Edelbrock victor-X for the intake manifold is the best bang for the buck on turbo. Always port match/gasket match from the intake manifold to the head and the throttle body to the intake manifold.
I would run type-r cams as they can be had new for rather cheap.
Supertech springs and retainers are the best bang for the buck.
You can make 500whp on pump gas you dont need 110.
If this is also a daily driver I wouldnt run more then about 350whp on the street or you can forget about any traction till 3-4th gear. Do a seperate tune for the track and at that point you might at well push it to 550-600whp range and use the 110.
You will need a bigger turbo then the s256 to reach those numbers...that turbo will max out around 550 crank hp or about 460whp. The s362 or the gt35r would get you 500whp+

 

I've been out of the honda scene for a while now, as I've been focusing on project "world's quickest mr2", but I saw this and I had to chime in beings that I am also 30ish years old and have been messing with this stuff since '98. Ok, this is what I'd do. First, get some sleeves. You gotta get the benson open deck sleeves if you don't want to line hone the mains. Any closed deck sleeve will distort the block a bit. As for all of you golden eagle nay sayers. Every shop has a horror story. As far as I'm concerned, golden eagle makes the best closed deck sleeve. Bisi runs golden eagle sleeves and you guys all no what type of stuff he puts together (google "bisimoto" for the uninitiated"), but like I said, if you don't line hone after installing closed deck sleeves, you will have problems. Secondly, you don't need a crazy set of cams and a silly big throttle body. Just run a set of gsr cams. They'll be fine. Courtney Green made 802 whp with gsr cams. Too much duration and all you do is pressurize your muffler. Throttle body wise, you're probably gonna run 2.5" od piping and that's only 60mm or so inner diameter. Use a cheap blox or professional products intake. All you really need is a little more plenum volume. You can spend a bunch of money on a super effecient high flowing victor, etc. manifold or you can run 1 or 2 extra psi on a cheap manifold. Remember, you're building the block strong enough to make double the power that you are shooting for. The most important part of building a high hp boosted motor is strength and resistence to detonation. Effeciency comes second. Third, Go ahead and get a set of better springs and retainers. B16's like to spin, go 8500-9200 rpm's and make sure you pick a turbo that is suited for that displacement at those rpms vs boost pressure required. Turbo selection and block build up are your 2 most important tasks. Don't focus much on the head. The stock head already flows 270ish cfm. Probably almost 100 cfm more than the old double hump chevy heads that you're used to. (assuming you're a chevy guy) Just gasket match, clean the casting up, knife edge the dividers a bit and make the bowls transition better. Remember to leave your intake ports finished rough not smooth, so that the turbulent air along the port walls keeps the fuel suspended and not running down the walls like rain on a winshield. That's my quick advice. There is a ton more knowledge out there, but I hope that I put you moving in the right direction. P.S. not all garrett turbos are ball bearing or water cooled. If it's a gt series it has to be suffixed by an "r" to denote ball bearing center section, such as a gt3037r. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...gt_basics.html

 

Where do you live? What state? The big thing you need to do is find the tuner you want to go with and talk to him about your goals and get recomendations from him. There is allot of good info on honda-tech but at the same time there are quiet a few MORONS that have never built a car in there life and only know what they read on here. Get in contact with a good reputable tuner. He can tell you ideal compression ratio's springs and retainers suggest a properley sized turbo and what not.

 

Oh he's got a good tuner ;-)

Quote: I do have a tuner picked out I was referred to him from a local guy at the track. His name is Dave Blundell from TPR in Cincinnati

 

From your personal experience, how do you know for sure that it carries a higher octance rating than 110? Have you tested it? Not being funny, just being curious. Because I'm thinking about switching to E85.

 

All I have been hearing from others that Dave is one of the best in the country. I did google dave and found he is the owner of pgmfi.org and was featured in honda tuning mag about tuning as well as hundreds of other things on google that he has been in to. So i guess that sealed the deal with me going to dave. but yes so far everyone that knows of him sais hes "really damn good" lol

 

HAHA reading owns me.

 

Also besides all the great info about the type r cams and the gse cams and others.. which either way i am going to go with a type r i was reading some specs on them. They seem to be a great mid range cam with not crazy duration and alot of overlap. Also been stumping across alot of the high number setups that have either the "tyep r" cams or skunk pro 1/2's. Thats a good sign on those cams

I have settled on getting some sleeves thats gonna happen. For cams the type r's are what i am going to go with, or the pro 1/2.. but it seems the biggest debate is the turbo. I was leaning hard on the borge warner s256.. It seems that everyone has there choice of turbos.. some seem to make power on the smaller turbos some seems to make power on the mid sized turbos. Of course there are other factors to the equation to produce that kind of power. but there hasnt been a unified series to start to look around.. any ideas ?

 

What do you wanna do with the car? If its a dd, then 500whp will be useless on the street unless you drive around with drag radials. Your clutch will be pretty harsh for daily as well at that power level. I have an integra with a turbo ls vtec at about 375whp. I have it setup so its fully spooled at 3k and so I dont have to rev it to the moon to go fast. I spin a little in 3rd but thats bound to happen with any kind of power, fwd, and street tires. If its a drag car, then go for as much power as you can. The expenses start to add up quick once you get past 400whp.

 

e85 is roughly 106 octane and this has been beaten to death

 

I run mid 11s btw and its perfect for a street car. When I say daily it, I mean I just moved to TX and drove 23hours straight with no problems at all. When I got here, I beat on it every once in a while and no problems at all.

 

I know this makes no sense, but i am looking to do street and track.. I know there might be a happy medium but of course there will be sacrifice at the track and on the street for 2 way different types of driving. thats where I was mentioning the 500hp.. go to the track knowing its power, however not running that on the street I know that would be out of the question. I would more then likely run it off the waste gate spring. So it sits around the 350hp on the wastegate spring that will be more then enough for the street. And that would be more then content with me.

 

That for sure is a definition of a street car / daily driver lol

 

whats your setup boostedeg302?

 

the octane rating of E85 is 105 octane, but what people fail to realize is 110 octane doesn't have the same cooling properties as E85 does, so in a sense even though E85's octane rating is lower, with it's cooling properties I'm sure the detonation threshold is alot higher than 110 octane.

 

i am also 30 and in the last almost 10 years definetly spent my time in the garage and tens of thousands of dollars on the visa to learn how to do this..


i gotta say i'm extremely happy with my benson sleeved block. i had an aebs block and it kept mixing oil/coolant along the headgasket, no matter how it was machined. with whatever block you choose, start off the bore at 84mm.

walbro 255 and likely some 1000cc injectors will do you fine for fueling.


the s2xx borg's are too small for your high end power goal.

itr cams are a very solid choice, ive got mine paired up to supertech dual springs and ti retainers.


make sure you get a trans with an lsd, either mfactory or quaiffe in my opinion

 

Good to see another Ol' man here too lol that was also my consideration to go to 84mm but I figured the extra 3mm would make that big of a difference, Im sure it helps in the long run but that would require me to get all new pistons. UNLESSS there is a nice benefit to 84mm lol I got a 255 and 1000cc injectors so i might be covered there. So the 200's are too small of a turbo.. what are some recommendations? And I am picking up today a b16 trans with a LSD . not sure of the brand LSD.

 

I have a stock ls bottom end with a built gsr head, itr cams, ported skunk2 mani, inline pro log mani and a 50 trim garrett. 3inch exhaust, clutch specialties clutch and a gsr trans.

 

Thanks.

 

My next build will be a b16 with high boost, less torque ! More linear powerband, which resembles a all motor graph

 

i have my boost set low/high. low 12psi 400whp high 18psi 540whp. even at low i dont get traction til 4th, i have traction bar,LSD,avid mounts. only thing i regrat is i didnt get the block sleeved only block guard.

 

walt, i didnt get past this post i am tired and can barely see hahaa......
contrary to popular belief, a good setup on a b16 will run.
the s256 is a little guy and not sure how hard you can push it.

but, my old old setup, 84mm b16, crower billets, je 9:1, gsr cams, t3t67ho full exhaust, 28 psi made 540 whp with a first time tuner. and got me a 10.72@ 135. this was at 2600lbs. full caged and a 240lb driver.

a good tuner should be able to do that stock sleeved with the right setup.

bart (swapit on here) has a b16 in his car, pushing close to if not a shade over 800whp and has been in the 9s with it.

get a good setup and stick with it to learn it, and you will fly.

too many people change setups and dont properly learn them.

hth.

 

huh... my b16 had the linearity of a hockey stick