Does the extra .2L of displacement produce a noticable amount of power over the smaller B18? I was contemplating swapping out the B18b in the LS to a bigger B20, then work from there. But before I commit to it, I thought I'd ask for some opinions and suggestions from you guys.

Since whatever engine I choose will get resleeved, would it matter if it was the B18 or B20? I don't think I'll go with a VTEC head...going straight for the internal buildup and turbo setup. At the most some P&P and maybe some mild turbo cams. My power goals are 300-350whp. I'm estimating 15-18psi of boost. Which brings me back to the b18 vs b20. Does the extra .2L of discplacment produce a noticable improvement over the 1.8? Thanx for any help and info!

 

10% more displacement=10%more hp

 

HONESTLY, I didn't notice a difference. Maybe thats because I had a Turbo on my 1.8L ... . It doesn't feel so torquey like most people say it is but those people are probably the ones that upgraded from a 1.6L to a 2.0L in a HB! They will probably notice the biggest difference.

The car right now is just B20 with no turbo. However, It will be turboed end of this week

I'd say just get a B18B and get it sleeved and bored to 2.0 L.

 

Thanx for the input. I can't see myself in a hatch, so that's why I'm sticking with the Teg. I'd rather sacrifice some performance for comfort. Anyways, let me know how the B20 turbo setup feels. BTW, do you have any dynos of your old B18 setup? I'd like to compare it with your new setup and see how much of an improvement it really makes. Are you going with the same turbo setup as your last? Or whatelse is different/improved?

As of now, I'm leaning towards the B20...just for the fact that I can drop it in and have little to no down time. And I'll have a spare B18 sitting around "just in case". Good luck with your new setup.

 

If you are getting it sleeved then there is no reason not to make it a 2.0.

 

if you are going to sleeve the block then do yourself a favor and get the B18B sleeved. It will be cheaper and the same exact thing as a sleeved B20B/Z.

 

That's what I figured. What's the most you can resleeve the B18 to? 85mm? I guess I can live w/o my motor for a few weeks. (I can carpool anyways)

Any other advice for a 300-350whp B18b? What should I look out for? Keep em coming guys!

 

get the b18b sleeveed and bored it out to 84.5mm, it'll be 2.0l
cheap, and they do the same thing

 

i found this old post and wanted to bring it back for some reasons.

1.i have heard that ppl do complete b20 for around 2k so how much cheaper would the b18b be?

2.and cant you go with the b18a it would be cheaper and the only difference is the intake manifold(i think) so can you guys verify this for me?

3.and am also looking at a b18b/b20 turbo or a b18c1. hte only reason i havent juped on the b20 for it's price is because of the rumors i heard that the b20 have no top end but is good for torque? can someone give info on this to?

 

oh yeah! and i have a 88 hf CRX, im kinda leaning towards the b18c1 now but either way i go im going to have some clearance problems

 

i take it now body knows then

 

I got my complete B20 from Nippon motors in california for $900 shipped and it came in about three days... excellent service....the only other part you would need to make the swap work would be an LS intake manifold because the B20 manifold wont fit under thew hood.. instead of buying an LS intake manifold, you might as well fork out some money for a skunk 2 intake manifold...helps your top end a lot.. dont go with the b18a, different wiring harness from the newer b-series... less horsepower too...they come with different cams..and the rods are not as strong... thew b20 has a lot of torque..but the top end could use some help..that should not matter if you are going turbo though

 

The B18a head is **** from what i hear, it flows even less than the b18b and has 2 hp less, its not just the Intake man.

Doesnt the B20 also have a larger sroke than the b18b? If so that to is a + for more torque.

 

B20VTEC turbo in my hatch................it's NASTY at very little boost!! I am now in the process of finishing up the rebuild(pistons, rods, AEM EMS, etc...). Can't pick a better combo in my opinion!!!!!

 

Appearently someone has mastered the fine art of talking out of thier ***. The reason the wiring harnesses are different is b/c of the year of the engine and the version of the electrions. 90-91 are OBD-0 and 92-93 are OBD-1. The only years that the cams are different is the 90-1 years and 92-93. I've used both sets, the 92-93 make the difference. All B18A-b18B and b20B/Z rods are the same, no difference in strength.

Yes the B18A head flows like ****, but don't think the B18B is any better. For any LS Head to flow well they need a good port match job. Helps tremedously.


[Modified by Speed PHreak, 5:57 PM 8/11/2002]