detnating in boost...help
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InTeGrA B18b1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">colder plugs, retard your distributor, run higher octane, turn boost down</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well after doing all that i hope he wouldn't have to turn the boost down
Well after doing all that i hope he wouldn't have to turn the boost down

what kind of plugs??? and i did retard my distributor, and im running 92 octane... so what kind of plugs should i get??? thanks for the info
NGK BKR7E, part number 6097
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxhatch02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of plugs??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxhatch02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of plugs??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
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How much boost are you running?
Octane booster would work, but do you really want to have to put in extra stuff in the fuel every time you fill-up?
Octane booster would work, but do you really want to have to put in extra stuff in the fuel every time you fill-up?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Del_Slowest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how come nobody has said MORE FUEL? all the other opinions are nice and very well educated, but what about the best instant fix....fuel...
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I was thinking the same thing. What kind of fuel mods/management do you have?
</TD></TR></TABLE>I was thinking the same thing. What kind of fuel mods/management do you have?
At 4-5psi you should not need a higher octane fuel.
If I were you I would get over to a dyno asap for some fine tuning. I recommend the NGK BCPR7ES, part number 3330, gapped to around .030
If I were you I would get over to a dyno asap for some fine tuning. I recommend the NGK BCPR7ES, part number 3330, gapped to around .030
get a wideband? does money grow on trees?
at 4-5psi you should not be detonating. double check everything, there is no reason why you should be detonating. i was checking your Sig and i don't see info on tuning or at least an FMU.
it's easy to say "tune you car" but noone wants to spend money on Dyno sessions when their not done with the final project. just check everything and make sure it's 100% until you're ready to tune it properly.
at 4-5psi you should not be detonating. double check everything, there is no reason why you should be detonating. i was checking your Sig and i don't see info on tuning or at least an FMU.
it's easy to say "tune you car" but noone wants to spend money on Dyno sessions when their not done with the final project. just check everything and make sure it's 100% until you're ready to tune it properly.
No, money does not grow on trees, and that's exactly the reason you should rent a wideband. It's alot more expensive to replace a blown block than it is to spend the $100 on dyno time, or wideband rental.
You don't get this far and say "it's too expensive to tune it". That's part of the price.
If you're cheap (as am I), build a DIY-WB. Mine cost a total of $200 US and it works like a charm. I've tested it against a Motec unit and it was dead on. I think $200 is reasonable considering this is a TURBO project.
How are you adding fuel? Do you have an FMU in the "stuff I can't remember" department?
You don't get this far and say "it's too expensive to tune it". That's part of the price.
If you're cheap (as am I), build a DIY-WB. Mine cost a total of $200 US and it works like a charm. I've tested it against a Motec unit and it was dead on. I think $200 is reasonable considering this is a TURBO project.
How are you adding fuel? Do you have an FMU in the "stuff I can't remember" department?
This isn't an inexpensive hobby, and improper tuning can end up costing you a hell of a lot more than the cost of proper tuning. Either foot the bill for some tuning or for a wideband and tune it yourself.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxhatch02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a Vortech FMU.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the problem, you're only tuning option is changing discs, or upping baseline pressure. These do not offer much to work with. Since you've obviously dropped alot of money on all the other quality parts, atleast get an AFC, or reprogrammed ECU.
That's the problem, you're only tuning option is changing discs, or upping baseline pressure. These do not offer much to work with. Since you've obviously dropped alot of money on all the other quality parts, atleast get an AFC, or reprogrammed ECU.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinskittle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well after doing all that i hope he wouldn't have to turn the boost down
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i was just giving examples of what to do. i'd turn the boost up after that
Well after doing all that i hope he wouldn't have to turn the boost down

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i was just giving examples of what to do. i'd turn the boost up after that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxhatch02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im detnating now when i get up to about 4,500 to 5,000 rpms...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure you have 8.8:1 pistons? Did you install them yourself? This recently happened to a guy on the vortex and he just couldn't figure it out. The shop that build the block had ordered 8.5:1 pistons for a VR6 and they received 11:1 units by mistake. They didn't notice and installed them.
VR6 engine mangement users
Compression test results (
1 2 )
Are you sure you have 8.8:1 pistons? Did you install them yourself? This recently happened to a guy on the vortex and he just couldn't figure it out. The shop that build the block had ordered 8.5:1 pistons for a VR6 and they received 11:1 units by mistake. They didn't notice and installed them.
VR6 engine mangement users
Compression test results (
1 2 )



