So after seeing dyno sheets and tales of the elusive 500++ hp 4cylinder motor, what I want to know is do you drive it every day? My little 350 hp EF car that runs high 11's all day long is driven every single day and I really like to take it out and run it for hours sitting in almost non-moving traffic.

Does your potentially 10 sec. car run cool enough to drive in traffic? I'm not knocking anybodies trailer queen or weekend driver, but I want to know who put the blood, sweat and tears, or in my case, tons of hard-earned cash into making their car bulletproof enough to beat on every single day?

Maybe it's me, but it seems way more impressive if you can fill your car with 93 octane pump gas and drive it 4 hours half a state away and put down 11's, than having to coax it along 30 minutes to run 10's... holla...

 

bump cause I would like to know this as well...

Blaze

 

My car made 433 WHP on pump gas with a very conservative tune, and last week I took a 1500 mile round trip in it to visit my folks. I've been driving it every day for over a month know. It's all about the parts you chose, you can build a 500 HP car that is rock solid reliable, and on the other hand you could build a 250 HP car that breaks down every day.

Also, I took my car to the strip last weekend, drove it there on street tires/pump gas, bolted on some 24.5/8.5/15 MT's on slips, made some 1/8 mile passes, loaded up my tires and went home. Best pass was a 7.40 @ 109 with not a whole lot of traction, which works out to around 11.40-11.60 @ 133-136 mph. I'm hoping to make some passes at a 1/4 track this weekend weather permitting, then after that get into the race gas.

 

I would like to know as well. I have always wondered with all things being equal at what power level do you take a serious hit to reliabilty? If you had a graph of power over reliabilty where does it drop off significantly? 350-400-500? I am assuming you pick good parts and good tuning, built motor, and know what you are doing, I know that asumes a lot sometimes. Another thing that is hard to compare is how much you beat on the car. Everyone has their own idea when it comes to mechanical empathy for their cars. Thoughts?

 

I'm doing a build for 400+ hp and longevity. I've got a b17a head: Eibach dual valve springs, titanuim Rev retainers, stock valves, CTR intake camshaft and stock b17a exhaust cam shaft, milled 8 thousandths, valve job, new valve seals, and debating on using an ls or gsr block. What rods?, Pauter's, Manley's, or Crowers? As far as Pistons: CP's, JE's, Arias'?. Head studs will be AEBS. Head gasket is between oem crv or Cosmetic copper. Oil pump is between Type R oil pump or Prodrive oil pump gear. ARP or AEBS main cap bolts.

LS : b18 block Benson sleeved to 84mm (step decked, balance and polished ls crank), add Endyne block girdle with proper machining, add Fluidampr harmonic dampener http://www.fluidampr.com/solution.htm, OEM or ACL main bearings?

GS-R : b18c1 Benson sleeved to 84mm, has stock girdle, more webbing on block, oil squirters, (step decked, what crank should I go with? LS b & p crank for more displacement or GSR b & p crank made to handle higher rpm), add Fluidampr harmonic dampener


Modified by calib17a at 1:06 AM 6/11/2004