dragonfly2k3

I have read lots and lots of threads on this site regarding nitrous. But i cant find any definitive answers as far as needing more fuel pressure for a dry kit. I understand i need more flow, but do i NEED more pressure. Im trying to make my car driveable while off the bottle and safe while on. Any help is appreciated.

RC000E

A dry kit works because of a rise in fuel pressure, that's how the system is designed. You use nitrous line pressure to apply force to the diaphragm in the fpr and increase fuel pressure, essentially creating bigger injectors.

A dry kit just doesn't have a solenoid/nozzle that injects nitrous into the intake with nothing more. If you look at the design of the system your questions are answered.

dragonfly2k3

I understand that i do, deffinately have a fpr upper built into the system, but i see alot of talk on this site talking about also adding an fpr. I dont see why that would be necessary? I do plan to add 310cc injectors just to be safe. Thank you for your help. Ill keep looking at the other search results just to be positive it will be safe.

RC000E

You say you understand but then you say counter by saying your adding bigger injectors? You DON'T NEED bigger injectors. A dry kit is designed as a standalone system. Bigger injectors just complicates the whole process. With bigger injectors your gonna need retuned off the bottle, it's gonna screw up the jetting of the dry kit on the fuel side...your just making problems for yourself.

A dry kit is SIMPLE....put the thing in according to the directions with some gapped down plugs and 2 degrees of retard from base and GO man. Your overcomplicating this whole thing. The fuel jets on a dry kit are designed to make you safe. They don't want you to add more fuel....it's done for you.

I ran a 100shot on a Y8 for almost two years....BONE STOCK EVERYTHING. That's fuel pump, injectors, spark plugs....EVERYTHING. I bumped down my timing, gapped down my plugs, zip tied my connection to the fpr so it didn't blow off, ran 93 octane and raced the hell out it every weekend during the warm months.

Don't make something so easy so complicated. You wanted definitive answers...there it is.

dragonfly2k3

Why is it then that almost every thread on this site speaks AGAINST running the dry kit on a stock fuel system. I am in no way telling you you're wrong or anything, Im just trying to not only be safe but also understand nitrous set-ups to the best of my ability(like i try to do with everything automotive).

RC000E

Listen....I've run dry setups for years on multiple vehicles. Dry setups are designed for STOCK ****....period. You can certainly tune nitrous setups alternate ways, as in through and engine management setup. Various EMS have activation options for nitrous solenoids, so in that circumstance you'd use a bigger injector and tune accordingly.

The fact is though, that if you go out and buy an N.O.S. or ZEX dry setup for a Honda, you install it according to the directions and you open the bottle and floor it, that's it. No bigger injectors, no bigger fuel pump, no nothing.

I don't know what else to tell you. I've run it many times, I loved the hell out of it, I won alot of street races in my life using it, and I never once used bigger injectors. It's simply not necessary dude. Read the online directions for one of the dry setups...it doesn't say a thing about bigger injectors.

dragonfly2k3

I noticed that none of the companies directions list any other mods, but at the same time it is benefitial to them to make their product look as easy-to-use as possible. Also, is there a reason someone would use 3 solenoids in-line? I purchased a used kit for a hell of a deal, and they had 3 solenoids in line, 2 like reccomended(with the fpr T in the middle) and then a 3rd one on the end? its really wierd, i figure i probably wont use it.

dragonfly2k3

Also, have you seen a sight that lists the jet inside Dia. to estimated power and, I am making a really obvious assumption here when i say that i match a 5hp jet in the fuel pressure tee to a 50hp jet in the spray nozzle?

RC000E

The three solenoids inline is likely because it has a purge solenoid installed. The purge would be the first inline solenoid which is just button activated. The second solenoid would tee to the chamber with the third. The first one is your "fuel" solendoid, and the second is the nitrous solenoid.

The jetting is a simple number system. For instance I ran a 70shot NOS dry setup for a while on a minime I had. I used the 36 nitrous jet and a 42 fuel jet. The jets are all marked and simple to use.

Honestly, my advice to you is to go to someone that knows what they're doing. You've got no experience with this, and using a used kit only makes things harder. If you'd started with a new kit in the box with all the instructions you'd be FAR better off. A noob to nitrous using a used kit that's just lying in a pile is a recipe for disaster.

dragonfly2k3

There is no fuel solenoid, this is a dry kit. This kit will spray nothing but nitrous into the intake piping. I believe the first one in line is a safety solenoid(it is in-line with the fuel pressure safety switch) The way that i look at it is, the first one would be my purge, then the second one would be my first solenoid or "arming" solenoid, the third would be my actual nitrous solenoid per-say(and between 2 and 3 would be the fuel pressure T) Im not sure why you're saying one is the fuel solenoid, there is no fuel involved in the dry kit. You have one line running into teh nozzle and one jet.

dragonfly2k3

Ok, i am with you now, the first solenoid, even though flowing no fuel is reffered to the fuel solenoid because it is the solenoid that ups pressure. I have also discovered that the smaller the jet i run the more fuel pressure it will add. So, i could find a 50 shot jet, and then play with the fuel jets to adjust how it runs on the bottle, obviously aside from 1* of timing retard and colder plugs, off the bottle the car will run as a normal n/a car should.

RC000E

Yeah, your gettin it here.

Don't "play" with jets though, that's how you f*ck sh*t up. Just use the manufacturer recommendations and run the system like it's designed. They did the work for you, just listen to them. The only way you'll run into issues is if your running some altered fuel pressures.

Just keep it simple....keep it simple....lol. Use the manufacturer recommended jetting and you won't have a problem...I NEVER have.

Follow simple rules:

Follow the directions of the manufacturer to the tee
Don't activate it below 3000rpm...especially in higher load gears
Gap down your plugs about .007
retard your timing 2 degree per 50shot
Don't do long *** pulls (i.e. 1st-5th, or more than 15seconds or so)
Secure your fuel pressure reference line so it can't pop off. If it does though, you can use the pressure safety switch to shut the system down.

Dry kits are designed to be easy and safe.

dragonfly2k3

Ok, im with you. I will have to call holley's nos division (i imagine they're all the same phone number ha). I will ask them what is their reccomended jets for the honda b-series vtec. Id like to get a 40 shot set-up. I will probably also order a pair of jets for a 30 shot to start off with and get things all set-up. I am planning on having the car dyno-tuned both on the bottle and off. I am intending on using a 4 switch system (i understand it is highly ocmplicated, but id rather complicated and safe than easy and broken) The system will use the arming switch, the fuel pressure safety switch, a window switch(4500-8100, to avoid rev-limiter spraying) and finally the full throttle switch. I am hoping with this system i can keep it safe and under control. The plan is, that to be spraying teh car will have to be armed, have good fuel pressure, be between 4500-8100rpm, and have the pedal to teh floor. I will also have a purge solenoid(the first in line, seperate of that system on an ignition switched 12v push-button switch)

RC000E

Yeah, I got you. Your making headway here.

The pressure switch is just an interrupt from the relay operating the solenoids. So the pressure switch is easy. The same goes for the window switch, it's just gonna disable the system relay as well. So, complicated sounding, but in essence not terribly difficult.

The jet system with NOS is pretty simple. Most universal kits start with the 32 jet (50shot) and use the 42 jet for the fuel side. The 42 jet will also adequately fuel the 36 and and 45 nitrous jets, which are 70 and 85 shot respectively. So, you see the 42 jet is more than conservative for the lower 50 shot setting.

I started at a 50...you could too.

Just let off if you feel anything abnormal. Hesitation, as long as you have some timing retard, is likely misfiring so check your plug gaps. Nitrous is fun...I love the stuff. I wish refills were free....lol.

Good luck bro. If you need wiring assistance or anything, posting a diagram will help. I could help you figure it out if you need help.

dragonfly2k3

Can do, so what im looking for here as far as my jets is a 32 and a 42. Do you have AIM? you're in the same timezone as me haha. If you do, hit me up at this S/N i have a few questions and have pictures of my kit available. Also, how does the first solenoid purge with only one inlet and one outlet? Anyways, if you can hit me up.

dragonfly2k3

Ok, i was being dumb, i now see how the first one is the purge. It is put into the system with a T. Between my fuel and nitrous solenoids there is a small anodized blue "manifold" looking piece that has a single nipple on it. Is this to control the pressure that is put onto the fpr(assuming you dont add 900psi of pressure to the top of the fpr haha)?