gooberguy31

Hello, I'm just finishing up freshly rebuilding a b18b1 with intent to boost. I have everything to boost it, but the only thing i'm worried about is initial start up, i'm gonna go with earl's suggested way of start, run, stop...tune. But i dont have the proper stock parts to run without the turbo set-up. Can i just have the turbo set-up on for starting, then when i get it tuned, would i be able to use it during the "break-in" period where my rings seat, or is it suggested not to run any type of boost during the ring seat period? even if i stay low to non boost, would the possibility of damage increase dramatically. The motor is built for boost from the get go but i dont want to have anything go wrong seeing as i'm getting really sick of fixing this car over and over and over and over again. HELP ME PLEASE...START UP IS CLOSE!!

SovXietday

Put the whole car together, as you would want it.

Start, tune for idle and low revs, heat cycle it then tune it starting with low PSI and working up.

iamthefollower

as SovXietday said, get everything on it the way you're wanting it.

gooberguy31

okay, i just didn't want to blow anything up or something stupid, i just put too much money and about 4 months of my life into this motor so i don't want it wasted.

ralph11sec

^agree.

put everything together.
are you experienced tuner?
set up idle first. make sure you idle good. with proper afrs for your street use. (no boost)
maybe up to 4trpm on 0psi.
you have to take a look on the oil pres/ water temp all the timie for new builds. you dont know yet where it will leak if ever

vtak_man

take it slow. do it right the first time.

gooberguy31

no, i'm have no idea how to tune, i was just gonna start it up, let it run for a couple of mins, shut it off and load it on to a car hauler and go to my tuner, who is like 1.5 hrs away.

supabang

if need be, all you have to do is remove the charge pipe from the turbo and you can run without boost. Tune it from idle, low rev, and then high. After you feel good, connect the pipe back to the turbo and slowly work up the boost.

gooberguy31

here's what i'm gonna do, get a stock ecu from an ls, get a stock header, then break in the motor like that, then when the compression is good, or getting way better, then i'm just gonna put all the turbo stuff on, my p28 ecu and trailor it to my tuner have him tune it, then i'll do a short break in period with the turbo.

trickeng

compression should be good right off the stand!!!! if its not, then it will never get "WAY" better.

put everything on with stock injectors, stock p28, make sure it fires up and idles fine, let it heat cycle, you should take it for a granny ride around the block staying out of boost(don't worry if you hit a couple lbs when your accellerating, just back off the gas till its at 0), CHANGE THE OIL, put big injector back with ems and trailor to your tuner.

don't waste your time trying to run it without the setup because your most likely going to be running rich and taking it for a longer ride and that is not good with a fresh motor.

Stine

Agree'd your missing one important part, CHANGE THE OIL and filter. Start the motor warm it up, shut it off, change the oil. Warm it up again, take it out and give it a beating on stock injectors and ECU N/A.

gooberguy31

okay, am i supposed to take you and your "advice" serious, the compression will not be good right from the stand? it's well known that when a motor is fresh from a rebuild, it needs to have the new rings seated, which can only be done from driving, and from what i've read with other people's experiences, that can happen anywhere in the miles of 150 to 2000, thus telling me that the compression will be low until the rings are fully seated. ALSO, it is very much someones opinion on how to break in a motor depending on their personal experiences and what they've seen work, i personally will not take my new motor and "beat it" while its N/A but thank you for the suggestion. I am trying to decipher here in this thread, if i need to get the stock parts instead of turbo OR if i can run the turbo from the get-go and get the immediate tune and just be easy on the motor until i know for sure that the new rings have been seated.

gooberguy31

so far i've deciphered from the posts on this thread:

Obviously crank w/o spark to get oil moving
start up, watch oil pressure and AFR's and for leaks
tune for idle and low revs (which i will admit, not sure on how to do that)
let it warm up
shut it off, change oil and filter
head to tuner...?
.....
doesn't tell me if i should start with turbo or N/A

boostedcivicsir

if it isnt a pain in the *** to idle it on the stock ecu and injectors do that.
fwiw, what i did with my car, started it, got the idle afr right, fan came on, shut car off. changed oil, put it on the dyno. evans tuned it in steps. car is still happy.

trickeng

yes, you should take me serious. i have over 100 honda engines under my belt, not to mention i'm a machinest, and spent 5 years working for a dynamometer company. all you have to do to seat your ring is build some cylinder pressure which pushes them against the wall. the can be done how i said in my previous post and after its tuned there is absolutely no reason to continue driving it easy for break-in purposes.

Jaker

Crank it without spark plugs and without fuel (remove your ECU fuse or unplug your ECU). You do not want fuel washing down the cylinders while trying to build oil pressure. You also don't want compression loading the bearings before there's oil pressure.

Stine

Ive rebuilt a lot of motors and i can tell you what works for me. It seems you are new to this. If you know everything, which I'm sure you believe you do, then dont ask for phucking suggestions you phuckstick.

trickeng

Good catch.. This is also a very important step.

Kyle R

iTrader: (1)

In for numbers....

SovXietday

If it's not a PITA just use the stock injectors and ECU and let it idle. You really want to have run the engine a little bit before you put it on the dyno so that if there are any leaks you will find them and fix them. Notice, I really really wouldn't drive it AT ALL with stock ECU and injectors, just idle, let the fan turn on, check for leaks etc.

If you're proficient at tuning you can do this all with the full setup like I did. Just less to change around when you get to the dyno.

Put the car together AS YOU WILL RUN IT and take it to your tuner. They should make a few low/mid load mid RPM pulls on the dyno, make sure everything is peachy. Then start making some low boost pulls (~8psi) and tune for that. Then work up to what you want to be at in the end.

When the tuners done take it home and enjoy it.

So basically, say you want to run it at 15psi when everything is said and done.

-Crank the engine, build up your oil pressure. I personally just yanked the wires and turned it over a few times.
-Start the car, let it idle. Check for leaks, fix any you find, let the car do a full warm up to make sure that all is good to go.
-Change oil and filter.
-If you used stock ECU and injectors, switch to what you will be using and trailer the car over to your tuner.
-Tuner should tune for idle and low speed driveability FIRST.
-Tuner should make some midrange RPM pulls at a comfortable load. Obviously tuning.
-Tuner should set up the car for it's lowest boost setting (IE wastegate pressure). Tune the car at this boost level. Always checking for leaks etc etc.
-Once that is tuned, turn the boost up to what you want to run and tune the car like normal.
-Take the car home. I personally like to change the oil again after dyno tuning.
-Enjoy it!

gooberguy31

Yes your correct, this is my first TOTAL rebuild, and i've got my uncle who has over 200 builds under his belt, BUT they were old school chevy motors, so its semi new to him also, AND YES i do have a large issue with knowing everything, I like opinions but it's hard to take things serious on a public forum, when you don't know if your talking to a pro, or a 4 year old just pushing buttons on the keyboard, hopefully no one is a 4 year old

i'll get them posted as soon as i get it tuned.

Thanks for the input, i'm prolly gonna do it this way as it seems most feasable and makes the most sense. but i won't be running 15 lbs, more like 10lbs max, i have just a stock bottom end.

iamthefollower

I had just rebuilt my LS bottom end and after 50 miles I did a compression check and it was 200 across, I don't blame you though, I wouldn't "beat it" either, but I did however start my break in on my LS/Vtec turbo motor with the turbo on it and everything, it's now close to 500 miles and it has boosted around 5psi a couple times, still running good . Good luck on your motor and hope to see how it comes out.

iamthefollower

I would just unplug both plugs on the distributor so it would solve it all lol.. That's how I did mine to get the oil pressure to build up.

gooberguy31

well i'm happy, success stories give me better hope for mine lol, but yeah i was thinking i'm just gonna pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and pull the plugs off the dizzy, and that would do the trick, so thanks for the confirmation. I just believe the only trick is gonna be the compression numbers, see i'm gonna get a thicker Cometic HG to put on it to lower the compression slightly, plus it's got Crower Turbo Cams and a full spring/retainer kit from Crower on it to. so i'm not sure what the compression will be, but it shouldn't be huge amounts under stock numbers,....i'm hoping

Psychoteen101

If you have installed a new oil pump, make sure you have a working oil pressure guage hooked up. Every one of those brand new oil pumps ive ever installed has never build oil pressure just from cranking it over, most of the time they wont even build pressure if the car starts. Understand, that i dont pack the oil pump with lithium grease or vasoline, or whatever because there is always a chance that that stuff can clog the oil gallys and ruin the motor. I ofcourse prime it by dumping oil into the pickup and rotating the crank until oil comes out the opposite end, but still usually wont allow the pump to build pressure.

If by chance you dont build pressure, best thing to do is to add an extra quart of oil over the normal amount. That way the pickup is completely submerged and the oil doesnt have to travel uphill.

Break in wise, start it, make sure you have oil pressure, let it run at an idle, get up to operating temp., run it for 15 minutes, shut it off and bring it to the tuner. The rings will have seated at the end of that run cycle. Only thing that might change is if you put aftermarket cams and/or valve train. In that case, different manufacturers may have certain break in procedures for you to follow.