*Boostwerks*

are any of you driving daily with a 6 puck setup?

I am about to finish my install of an Exedy pressure plate with an Action Metalic 6 puck disc, and am wondering what to expect.

I know it will engage like a ****, but is it possible to ease..... into the engagement?

If you have also driven with other organic disc clutchs, what do you like better?


[Modified by Bryson, 1:21 PM 8/12/2002]

B18C-RnVA

yeh i have a 6 puck clutch and it sucks driving around for a daily driver. chirpping all gears..that **** gets on your nerves..lol. but it hooks up real good. cant wait to go to the track..i just ease off the clutch real slow

Speed PHreak

I've got a clutchnet stage 2. Heavyduty pressure plate w/ 6 puck metallic disk. It does have a strong engagement, but it's not that bad to drive. It holds strong and is a good clutch. Break yours in right and it'll be just fine for daily driving. Depending on your pressure plate, you may have a sore clutch leg until you get used to it. Other than that it ought to be ok.

degradated

Is it a sprung or solid hub?

I suppose some 6-pucks/heavy pressure plates are harsher than others, but my RPS Max really isn't too bad. You can make it drive almost like a regular clutch if you do it right, but it is like 10 times more sensitive to error. Do one little wrong thing and it will chatter, or hop the wheels, or just snap your neck back by accident.

You really SHOULDN'T try to feather out a 6-puck like a regular clutch. It may seem like the driving is smoother that way, but it will wear it out much faster, might create hotspots and warpage on your flywheel, etc. 6-pucks are designed for quick engagement, so that's exactly what you should do...engage them quickly.

*Boostwerks*

The Exedy pressure plate is pretty light from what I have heard....

But how many miles would it be reccomended to break in a 6 puck?

CovertFI

chirpping? do you mean the tires? really i dont know

GSRwBOOST

<---- ACT XTR6 right here and i love it... it's definately streetable, but then again I have some patience too. It's a little tough to drive at first, and it definately lets you know if you pull out wrong or shift incorrectly.

I'm down to pulling out with almost no jerking and shifting is no more different than before... I do have to "rev match" when downshifting and when upshifting have to give it a little gas so the revs dont drop...

other than that it's fine...

*Boostwerks*

I just know that I'm going to stall the car getting out of the garage the first time

Can't wait though

So how long should I "break in" the Metallic 6 puck?

"break In" just means "drive lightly" right?....it sounds like thats going to be pretty hard if it engages so fast.

Kamin

i was under the impression that 6 pucks do not need a break in.

GSRwBOOST

yea.. i dont think pucks need broken in... but the ones with springs on the disk might need to be broken in... ???

Speed PHreak

Well I mean, don't bolt the thing and leave out of the driveway in a 10PSI cloud of rubber. Just a good drive around town through some stoplights n stuff ought to be enough. Get used to to clutch, how it feels under down shifting and taking off. Just do go dumping the hammer as soon as you get it in, that a good way to break anything.

*Boostwerks*

why would that matter?

Springs on the disc are just there to absorb the "shock" from engine cycles.

GSRwBOOST

i was just guessing......

I dont think pucked clutches need a breaking period since they are designed for mostly race applications... how would you break in an on/off clutch? LOL

Speed PHreak

hahaha, good point

degradated

I don't believe any of that garbage about not having to break in a clutch. It's not actually breaking in the clutch disc anyway, it's more having to do with breaking in the flywheel and pressure plate to mate up well with the new disc in there.

I don't see why it would make a difference if it's sprung or not, either. My 6-puck happens to be sprung. I did the standard 500 mile break-in process, and I can DEFINITELY tell a difference after it was fully broken in. Soon after installing it, it was jerky, harsh, would chirp the tires, etc. Now it's much much smoother, still strong as a bull, but I can positively note a difference in how it is before/after breaking it in. Surely my driving has become acclimated to it during the break-in process, so I'm sure part of it was just learning to engage the thing better, but there's no doubt that my clutch wasn't broken in a few weeks ago, and now it is.

GSRwBOOST

We have to get together maybe this week and check out our clutches... I guess i got used to my clutch pretty quick... i think yours has a stiffer push on the pressure plate though.... you should come over and we can compare them...

jdmsergio

i run a stage 3 ACT does good on a Blown b20

GSRwBOOST

ACT doesnt go by stages that i know of.. they have soooo many different combinations..... I almost got sick of trying to decide.. LOL

bretx0r

im planning on throwing in a 6 puck into my sohc so i can get good launches on slicks, but i just dont want to break my tranny

pornstarSR

im running a 6 puck right now on my daily driver, but its a sprung hub, clutchmasters stage 4

but amazingly enough the engaement isnt to harsh.

but in traffic its sucks

solid hub would be WAY worse in traffic, but instant engadement is kind of cool

Lenthrax

iTrader: (1)

i have the Action 2 MD 6- puck
its a piece of cake...even in traffic or daily stop and go...
if you know how to drive...then its like nothing...
if you don't ..thats gonna be a different story

degradated

Alright...maybe Thursday or something. Does that mean I get to drive your car?

ThePunk

What about a clutchnet 4 puck?

johnmay19

I had a clutchnet stage 2 and it took some getting used to. Only had it 4 months and it was junk, destroyed my pp and flywheel plus the disc was down to the rivits. Just replaced it with a Action stage 2md and it is a world of difference. Smooth engagement and it is unsprung.

accordfreak

so the 6 puck is basically a race clutch?