Hi all, this is my first forum post and my first engine build so please be kind. I am currently building a D16a7 block with a D16y6 head which I plan on turboing. My power goals are a minimum of 350hp but would like to be close to the 400 mark. This will be a weekend car that I would like to track and maybe drag every so often.

I have a couple of questions and would like any advice offered, cheers.
I am planning on having the block heatwashed and the head skimmed with a mild port polish too. I don’t believe the cylinders needing reboring as they seem in good condition. I was just wondering how much I should I skim the head by and if I should look to up compression ratio as I have seen people recommend it with sohc turbo builds.
I am forging the bottom end with:
•YCP Vitara Pistons and rings
•SpeedFactory no notch long rods
•ACL Race bearings
•ARP Headstuds
•JE Pro seal Headgasket

I am also replacing all gaskets.

For the head I was considering putting in a Skunk2 Tuner Stage 2 Cam but am not wanting to do much to the valve train due to cost and am not sure if the cam upgrade is necessary for my goals?

For fuel system I have:
•Hybrid 335LPH High Flow Fuel Pump
•Fuel Injector Clinic 775cc Injectors
•AEM Fuel Rail
•AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Other Modifications I plan on:
•Skunk2 Pro intake manifold
•Epman Billet 70mm Throttle body
•Hard Race Engine Mounts
•ACL High Performance Oil Pump

For the Turbo, I am having a hard time finding the right turbo to suit my needs and power goals. I’m not wanting to pay a small house deposit for a turbo but I still want a good quality one that’ll do what I want and need so any recommendations would be appreciated please. I am also a bit stuck for which ECU to go for everyone seems to have very mixed opinions, but I have been looking at a HondataS200??

Also if I have anything that is not needed or “overkill” please let me know, I’m not trying to make this a budget build but also not wanting to spend money that could be better used elsewhere.

Thank you and all help is much appreciated.

 

Welcome to the forum. Your power goals are not small, but are certainly doable. As I currently have a 400+ whp D16Z6 that is both street/strip, here are my answers to your questions and recommendations:

This would be a mistake. While you could probably get away with it, I would highly recommend boring over 0.5mm so that you have good P2W clearance and give your engine a fresh start. This will eliminate piston slap, blowby, and other issues.

Only have the head cut enough to give you a fresh flat mating surface. Do not excessively cut the head to achieve a higher compression ratio. While it will work, it's breaking several things to achieve something that can easily be achieved by selecting the right piston.

Vitara pistons are cast, not forged. While the Vitara/long rod setup is proven to work, you'll be better served going with a real forged piston in 10:1 CR, oversized wrist pins, and a standard 137mm rod.

Save your money on the cam and spend it on upgraded springs/retainers, new valve stem seals, and a valve job while the machine shop has your head. Stock cam is fine and stock valves are fine. If you keep the stock cam, you probably won't be revving much past 8K, which is fine. If you guides are slightly worn, you can probably get by with just having them knurled to save a few bucks, instead of having new guides installed.

What fuel will you be running? For the price, just go with a genuine Walbro 450 fuel pump. If you're running E85 or some kind of high-alcohol blend, 755cc won't be big enough. I maxed out 1000cc injectors at 400 hp. Save your money and don't buy the fuel rail - spend that money elsewhere. It's 100% not needed. While not adjustable, the stock FPR is fine too if you want to save even more money.

I recommend the Turbonetics C15 TNX 52/57. It's ball bearing, it'll get you to the number you want, it's small, and I'm pretty sure Turbonetics is still running their sale. For ECU...I haven't seen an S200 in almost 20 years. I'm assuming you mean the S300v3. I've been using Hondata for a long time and it works, but it is a little buggy and it's built on the OEM ECU, which is 30+ year old technology, and 30+ year old hardware. If you stick with something that keeps the OEM ECU, you 100% need to replace the capacitors on the PCB to prevent them from leaking and damaging the traces, if they haven't already. I'm making the switch to a Haltech ECU.

Don't forget you'll need a clutch, a dyno tuning session, and about a million other small things. Read through this forum and find the single cam build threads. Good luck.

 

Thank you thank you thank you, these are exactly the kind if answers I was needing. You have helped so much, cheers.