Hello there,
you might think "one of these d-turbo threads again? seriously?
Well, that might be the reason, why i am creating this thread... i cant seem to find a thread that answers my question... just 1000 other answers.

Here is the situation:
I want to turbocharge a/my D-Series engine.

I currently have a D16Y7 in my EJ6 whose head gasket i blew yesterday. In my garage i have a D16Z6 with a crack in the block.

I want to build a turbocharged stock D16 which pushes around 250-300HP and should last at least a year or 60.000km... the idea is, that the D engines here are fking cheap and that it wouldnt be such a big deal, if it blows. Also the setup should be useable for circuit racing, so 250hp and as responsible as possible.

I was thinking about just throwing the Z6 Head and the Z6 Intake at the Y7 and use the thinest possible gasket to not lose so much Compression because of the Z6 cams. Then drive n/a for about 3 months and then do the turbo setup, because I need the car once a week and dont have the money for the turbo yet.

But i dont really know what i have to calculate, nor do i have experience with that.
I also would throw a completely different D-engine into the car, if it would suit me more.
I really like the high comp setup of "hillclimbercivic90" or whatever his name was... a build d16a6 with high compression AND a turbocharger = 238whp used in hill climb races.

Thanks in advance for any answer and my apologizes, if another d-turbo thread just pisses you off.

Sincerely
Edy

 

Jeez dude. Search for mini-me swaps fist off since that's what you're talking about. THEN research everything you can lay your hands on about turbocharging it.

 

Your single will jingle one pass at that power then throw a rod . Cheers

 

1st, look at your pinky. Then imagine that trying to hold 75hp. Then remember your pinky is thicker than a sohc rod

 

I didn't have much luck with a stock D16. Around 10 PSI and some timing and lifted the head. Once I pulled it apart and saw the stock rods yikes. Toothpicks. Mine is mostly stock. Stock block, crank, head, intake etc. All you need is forged rods, pistons and some head studs and it's pretty stout. Been hammering on mine with 15 ~ 18 lbs for some time now. Over a year, probably closer to two. Runs like a champ.

 

Was it properly set up, or did you tune it yourself?

We have a tuner here in germany, who runs a few stock d16y8 in race applications and each of them is pushing almost 300whp. And they last...
But he doesnt seem to be interested to really help me with my project.

 

Cool unbelievable story. What does that have to do with you?

 

OMG ROFLMAOO!!!! GRUMBLEMARC is awesome! "get-em"

 

research www.D-series.org for alot of single cam info

 

Lot's of single cam info here as well. People just have to want to get up off their asses and actually read it. Most of the FI info I got to enable to me to understand enough to build my little piddly entry level system I got from THIS forums FAQs and build threads.

 

What do you mean by properly setup? Yes I built my own turbo setup but I used quality parts.
I did also tune it myself but did so over the course of a year. I started out at only 2 lbs of boost and ran that way for months. I slowly would add a couple lbs and then drive for a few more weeks, add a bit of timing and so forth. You eventually find the limits.
I may not be an expert tuner but I don't see professionals or others on the forum getting much more than 200 whp either before a completely stock D lets go. You're claiming 300 whp in "race applications" and they last. humm

 

250 on 92 octane is doable all day.

 

220-250whp is what a d16 will hold... But vitara pistons and eagle rods are pretty cheap... Y8 heads will help rise the compression

 

I asked the tuner again. He meant that the stock wasnt sleeved, when he said, that it was stock. But the rods etc. have been reinforced.

Thanks for the advice, that i shouldnt go over 200whp with a stock D.
Gonna throw the Y7 away and just build a Z6 with Head, Rods and maybe retainers and cam.
Thanks grumblemarc for your kindness

 

If you're rebuilding it then no need to dispose of the Y7 block. Just slap a Z6 head on it and Z6 cam in it. I can see you haven't read anything.

 

@d-series.org i did read, that the Z6 block is better than the Y7, without explanation.

But in every other Thread they were discussing about Y8 vs Z6. And especially no thread said, that the Y7 Block suits better for a turboapplication.

 

y7 short block =y8 short block

Y8 oil pumps and cranks < z6 crank and oil pump

Ported y8 pump and use the y7/y8 crank if your goal < 400bhp

Your searching on the above info. could be found in less than 30min.

Take the time to search on here and d-series and your answers would have been found w/o embarrassment.

 

Am i wrong, or did you just agree, that a Z6 would be better to turbocharge?

It would be cheaper for me if i'd sell the Y7 and get a new block for the Z6, than to get the Z6 head etc. on the Y7 and try to sell the leftovers.

 

Yes cheaper with z6, except if this y7 is in a 96 and newer civic the CPS on the timing cover in y7/y8 has no home.

You will have to research how to fix OBD1 to OBD2 IAC wiring also.

This all can be done just do not think y7 to z6 is that straight forward w/o proper research.

 

Reverse the wires? or what happens here? When I converted my car from ODB2 to ODB1 I fixed my IAC issues in the tune. If I'm not mistaken I had to invert the solenoid's duty cycle.

 

If. You. Are. Rebuilding. The. Block. For. Boost. Then. It. Doesn't. Make. A. Difference. Get. A. Z6. Head. And. Crank. Port. The. Y7/8. Oil. Pump.