AccidentproWn

First off I'd like to say I did search.

Overview of my car
97 Accord
stock f22b
turbo boosting 9-11psi (whatever it feels like boosting that day)
converted to obd-1
p28 tuned with uberdata
3inch exhaust that dumps after the drivers seat
450cc dsms
stock MAP sensor

been running trouble free since March 2005 with about 20,000 miles.


Yesterday I headed off to school in the morning. Parked my car, and went to class for an hour. I come back to my car, start it, and it sounds funny; It sounds like a WRX. I drive it around the parking lot, no smoke, just sounds funny. It feels like one of the cylinders isn't firing. So i park it, pop the hood, and start pulling plugs. Low and behold I removed cylinder #3's and it doesn't effect the way the engine is running. Not to mention it was douched in oil. So I conclude cylinder #3 is not firing for some reason maybe because of a valve cover leak.

Later that day before going out to order my new plugs and gasket I turn the car on to check it out, it runs fine, cylinder #3 is in perfect working order. This is odd. I go out purchase my gasket set and plugs and run out of the autoparts store to install some new goodies. I start my car and cylinder #3 is not firing once again. I install the new gaskets and spark plugs, my car is running fine, no more oil all over the top of my plugs. Problem solved! Or is it?

Today I drove my car to a doctors appointment. It runs fine. I leave the doctors office, get back in my car, and its doing it again. I get out pull cylinder #3's plug and it's still the one not firing. There's no oil on top of the plug this time so that's not the problem.

I am getting a CEL, but I haven't checked it out and it's only when the car starts running funny. I checked for spark from the plugs and they spark fine. I'm thinking it might be that the injector is clogged, but I'd like to get some other ideas from people.

It seems the car only does it after it's warmed up, turned off, and restarted after a short period of time, before it has time to cool off.

If there's any other info anyone might need to know just ask.

N20civicB18

check the codes first, you probably have a p0303 or p0300 but if there is something else it might help

coneheadsracing

Seems like what you did should have fixed it. Did you make sure that the plug wire was cleaned up too where it connects to your plug. Otherwise, make sure your cap is good too. Been snowing a lot where i'm from, and i've been trying to mock up my turbo for my daily driver, and had my lower splash sheild off. Well, tons of snow and crap in the engine bay, and sounded like wrx too. Took off my cap and it was saoked inside.

Turbo O

your dizzy may be getting ready to take a crap.

0bd1_Kanobe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo O &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your dizzy may be getting ready to take a crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WERD

AccidentproWn

Thanks for the replies guys. Last night I picked up some injector cleaner and dumped it in the gas tank. I started the car from a cold start and it was running fine. I drove around for about 20 minutes then came home and let the car sit for about 20 minutes. I went back out and turned it on and cylinder #3 was not firing again.

Today I drove my car to school and started it cold. It ran fine. I leave class about 2 hours later, my car is still warm and cylinder #3 is not firing again. I got home and tested the volts coming from the injector clip and got 12v with the key in the on position. I then tested the resistance of the injector for cylinder #4 (a working cylinder) and got about 3ohms. I tested the injector for cylinder #3 next and I couldn't even get a reading.

This raises several questions for me.
Does no reading mean that the injector has infinite resistance and the multimeter can't read it?
Does that mean it's stuck open? I think it would read 0ohms if stuck closed correct?
Would this indeed be causing cylinder #3 to not fire because of way too much fuel?
Does God hate turbo Accords?

I guess the next step would be to test the resistance when the car is cold since cylinder #3 seems to like to run only on a cold start. Look's like I'll probably be in the market for 1 DSM 450, or a whole set. Having some extras can't hurt.

coneheadsracing

Before buying one, i'd swap them around, just to rule out any wiring issues. Check all your wiring too, you could be contacting metal somewhere and loosing power to it, but a swap of that would tell you which it is.