I am stuck on what the problem can be. When driving around normal everything is fine till you get the turbo heated up a few times and it is downhill from there. I have searched but everyone's set up is different. Will a better fan and shroud make a difference or turn the RAD side ways to create more air and bigger fan? Any help would be great. Here are a few pics.

Here is a little about the build. I dont check this site often but I'll try soon.
Jeremy's CRX SI B16a Project
B16a1 With LSD y1 trans

Top End
Skunk2 Low Compression Valves
Skunk2 Valve Springs
Skunk2 Titanium Retainers
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Factory Type R Valve Cover
ARP Head Studs
Golden Eagle Cam Seals
Crower Camshafts 63411T-2
Hondata gasket Intake
Victor X manifold
Port & Polish BY UNWO
Edelbrock Throttle Body 65mm
Full-Race B Series ProStreet Stage 3 GT

Bottom End / Tranny
Darton Sleeves M.I.D. 84mm
ARP Block Studs
Pauter Rods
ACL Bearings
CP Pistons
ERL Performance install Sleeves
ERL Final bore, Etc.
Fluiddampr B Series Street Version
Quaife LSD
synchro's / Carbon Synchros (GearSpeed)
Moroso Oil Pan
Bearing and Seal Kits & Diff Bearings (GearSpeed)
Competition Clutch Stage 5 unsprung

Replaced
Hasport Mounts (Engine)
Water Pump
Valve Cover Seal
Valve Stem Seals
Oil Seal Camshaft
Oil Pump
NGK-8018 Wires
NGK-Heat 7 Plugs
Sparco Seats and mounts
Samco Hoses

Fuel System
Walbro 255LPH, H.P. Intank Fuel Pump
Aeromotive 13109 Regulator
Fast-Turbo Fuel Line Kit
Injector Dynamics (Bosch) 1000cc Saturated Injectors
Edelbrock Fuel Rail

Exhaust
RS*R Cat Back

Brakes
Power Slot (Slotted) Front
Brembo (Slotted) Rear
Fast Brakes / Big Brake Kit
Hawk Performance Brake Pads (F&B)
StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Lines (F&B)
Integra Calipers Front & Rear

Electronics
Hondata S300
AEM Boost Solenoid
Rywire Harness
PLX M-300 Air Fuel
DEFI Link Control Unit II Ver.2
DEFI Link Oil Pressure
Defi Link Boost Gauge
Hondata 4 Bar
DEFI Link Imperial White 60mm Oil Pressure Gauge
DEFI Link Control Unit II Ver.2
Defi Link Imperial White 60mm Boost Gauge
Russell Fuel Pressure Gauge



Performance Upgrades
Full Race Traction Bar & Radiator
Gram Lights 57 Maximum Gun Blue Rims & Center Caps
Gram Lights Lug Nuts
BFG Drag Radials
KYB AGX Shocks
H & R Springs
DSS Stage 3.9 axles
DEI Turbo Wrap kit

Build & Tuned by:
JROD
(FSM) First State Motorsports
Evans Tuning

And some links...

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

 

What all have you done to it to try and fix the problem??? And maybe I missed it but is it a pusher or puller fan???

 

Puller fan. It is only 10inch and not sure of the brand however looks cheap. The downpipe runs on the corner of the RAD and would block a bigger fan from fitting unless I turn the RAD in a angle.

 

I have a simlar setup, less power, same chassis. I would look into angling the radiator and getting an SPAL 12 inch. puller. That plus water wetter/distilled water could possibly help. I have the same rad, and unfortunatly for us, the FR crx rad is smaller then normal eg halfrads (IE:mishi,koyo etc.) Also, if you havent already, go into s300 and set your fan to come on a little earlier then it is now. mines at 195*, cruising in a warm day its about 193*. The fan that comes with the FR turbo kit is just a generic 10in. poop fan. BTW I fit a 12inch on my FR rad, just barely fits.

 

Had the same problem and started with the same fan. Changed to a FAL type fan with a shroud that covered the rest of the radiator around the fan. Your current fan has no shroud and is causing the problem. My overheating issues stopped immediately after the FAL install. Good luck.

 

Nobody is considering the heat soak from the exhaust manifold being a problem? The radiator is awfully close to it. Given the fan specified does suck, but I can't see heat soak not adding to the problem.

Everything looks nice and clean in your engine bay though.

 

What model # do you have for your 12'' FAN? and post a pick if you can.

Heat soak is highly likely do to being upagainst the turbo parts. Like jchrm80 said we have no space and I will have to tilt sideways to keep it away from the turbo.

Next step is to take Evans advice and get a bigger exhaust (*Exhaust is very restrictive. Easily another 50whp+ with a true 3", along with much faster spool.)

 

Better view.

 

Your ram horn is literally touching the radiator, you gotta get that off the radiator. Then start getting things coated or heat wrapped. Also pick up a fan shroud, these things work out great.

 

I have not seen and ram horns wraped, would you wrap each tube seperate or together? I put the DEI Titanium wrap on the rest and would use the same.

 

We put this car together for Jeremy, and unfortunately a 12in fan will not fit in there with the downpipe and rad where it is. We were thinking about doing an a additional 10in fan on the front and making a shroud to keep that air directed towards the rad. Havent ran into any crazy cooling problems in a while, and that is our next plan of attack in addition to some mo-cool.


Josh@FSM

 

Would having a fan on both sides fix the problem of the heat being so close to the RAD?

 

add'l front rad fan won't really help. been there done that on a low boosted stock B16, half size rad setup.

a stronger(more cfm) pull fan and nice shroud setup will do the trick. also thinking of sticking such material on the shroud/rad sidings facing the manifold to help reduce more heat being absorbed.

 

Did you have to turn your RAD to keep away from the main heat source?

 

No. The rad seats as is.

i don't have pics right now(it's an old customer's car) and if i have to redo it again, it'll be like this:





fab some piece of thin sheet aluminum/ metal(yellow line) and install it from top to bottom in-order to allow better rad frontal air flow as well as isolate/put a barrier between your rad and mani/dp.

something like this but extends an inch or two backwards(bet. rad and mani/dp).



meanwhile, here's some nice rad fan shrouds i gathered way back. i think it's Tony's/T1 fabrications.







HTH

 

Thank you for taking the time to reply and in such detail. That makes great since with the sheet metal and will make a template for one.

Those shrouds look great; I contacted Tony about the set up and thinks it will be way to big for my set up... Dag..

 

Well I went ahead and bought a new fan for starters directly from SPAL. The fan is on sale from $172 and now is $115.

30102022Weight: 5.25 lbs.
VA26-AP70/WP-44A Fan (11" HP - Waterproof Motor)
11" Curved Blade High Performance Fan / 12V Puller

The old was a small 10'' that pulled no heat from the RAD. When this guy turns on you know it. Pulls the heat great and you can feel the air getting cooler the longer it is on. Then it was time for a test drive. Drove the car pretty hard for about an hour with no heat issues at all where before 15 min. into the drive running it hard it would over heat once warmed up. I am still going to get a plate made for beside it but this fan is great. Hopefully soon I will get it back down to First State Motorsports for the new exhaust then back up to Evans for a retune and hopefully another 50HP. Here is a few pics.

Old one.

 

MUCKMAN here are the pics you needed. Jeff Evens put them in so I am not sure what procedure he did.

 

Much appreciated.

 

I had a similiar 10" fan with a custom fiberglass shroud i made and my car would always overheat.

Now i have the 12" spal and made a sheet metal shroud to go with it. Car has no problems. maybe you can make something like this and have the shroud set the fan to the side while still allowing it to pull air from the whole radiator

 

Nice set up, I am looking to do the same thing. Where did you get the schroud?

 

I made the first one from fiberglass and the second one I made from some spare sheet metal I had laying around. I just measured, cut, and made bends theres no welding on that one.

 

Took some pics of my cars. I think I am hooked on black.

 

What is your air fuel driving around? If its to rich, then your going to radiate a ton of heat from the manifold and turbine housing.

Swaintech.com is the best coating you can get. It works amazing. You should have your manifold, turbine housing and downpipe done. This will definitely drop your underhood temps.

 

After the new fan I have had zero issues. Jeff Evans took a look at the air fuel and everything check out great.