cruise control high/low maps
#1
cruise control high/low maps
I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out how to wire my cruise control switch to activate my high octane map ... The cruise control is no longer in the car but I would like to use that switch of at all possible .. I don't mind if I have to run a wire or 2 from the switch to the ecu.. don't know which inputs to the ecu are positive switching or ground switching ... This is on a 93 civic ex BTW ... Any help would be appreciated
#4
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: South, Texas
Posts: 12,903
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: cruise control high/low maps
What engine management are you running? the cruise controle is wired through what they call a clock spring so that the steering wheel can turn. You will have to figure out which wires are for the curuise control then wire them to th ecu. In your management there should be help files that will tell you which inputs to use for secondary map change over. Read in the help files or post more info on here so that peopel may help you better instead of complaining that no one is helping you
#5
Re: cruise control high/low maps
What engine management are you running? the cruise controle is wired through what they call a clock spring so that the steering wheel can turn. You will have to figure out which wires are for the curuise control then wire them to th ecu. In your management there should be help files that will tell you which inputs to use for secondary map change over. Read in the help files or post more info on here so that peopel may help you better instead of complaining that no one is helping you
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Midwest
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: cruise control high/low maps
If they are the buttons on the wheel, they won't work w/o extra hardware. They are momentary, meaning on only when pressed. You'd be on the high octane map only while you hold it down.
You need a dual-coil latching relay for this, but you won't find any in a normal automotive package. You'll have to be creative getting wires on them. The way they work is when one coil gets a momentary signal, they "latch" into that state. Kinda like a door - close it and it stays closed, etc. So if it's "off" and you press the button for "on" for a moment, it turns the relay on and stays on. Press the other button to turn if off. You just wire the ecu's input to the coil output you want, then wire the two coils to the switches, and give it power.
I use them for fail-safe relays on car alarms, but I put them on small circuit boards. The nice thing is they only draw power while you activate/change their state. You can cut the alarm's power, yet they're still disabling whatever they're connected to.
You need a dual-coil latching relay for this, but you won't find any in a normal automotive package. You'll have to be creative getting wires on them. The way they work is when one coil gets a momentary signal, they "latch" into that state. Kinda like a door - close it and it stays closed, etc. So if it's "off" and you press the button for "on" for a moment, it turns the relay on and stays on. Press the other button to turn if off. You just wire the ecu's input to the coil output you want, then wire the two coils to the switches, and give it power.
I use them for fail-safe relays on car alarms, but I put them on small circuit boards. The nice thing is they only draw power while you activate/change their state. You can cut the alarm's power, yet they're still disabling whatever they're connected to.
#7
Re: cruise control high/low maps
If they are the buttons on the wheel, they won't work w/o extra hardware. They are momentary, meaning on only when pressed. You'd be on the high octane map only while you hold it down.
You need a dual-coil latching relay for this, but you won't find any in a normal automotive package. You'll have to be creative getting wires on them. The way they work is when one coil gets a momentary signal, they "latch" into that state. Kinda like a door - close it and it stays closed, etc. So if it's "off" and you press the button for "on" for a moment, it turns the relay on and stays on. Press the other button to turn if off. You just wire the ecu's input to the coil output you want, then wire the two coils to the switches, and give it power.
I use them for fail-safe relays on car alarms, but I put them on small circuit boards. The nice thing is they only draw power while you activate/change their state. You can cut the alarm's power, yet they're still disabling whatever they're connected to.
You need a dual-coil latching relay for this, but you won't find any in a normal automotive package. You'll have to be creative getting wires on them. The way they work is when one coil gets a momentary signal, they "latch" into that state. Kinda like a door - close it and it stays closed, etc. So if it's "off" and you press the button for "on" for a moment, it turns the relay on and stays on. Press the other button to turn if off. You just wire the ecu's input to the coil output you want, then wire the two coils to the switches, and give it power.
I use them for fail-safe relays on car alarms, but I put them on small circuit boards. The nice thing is they only draw power while you activate/change their state. You can cut the alarm's power, yet they're still disabling whatever they're connected to.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RACEPAK
Forced Induction
3
05-31-2006 03:23 PM