Anyone has seen a dyno of these with different setups? Are they even worth the money????

 

Crower "under-estimated" the demand for their LS cams, so they haven't had any new cores for about 2 months. So i doubt anyone has any of those cams. I had some 62402T's on order for a group buy for about 2.5 months. But I got fed-up with Crower dickin around. SO I got in touch with Web Cams 2 weeks ago, and Yesterday I got my set of custom ground turbo cams, similar to Crower's, but with some differences.

http://www.webcamshafts.com

 

I have a brand new pair of crower 62402T's in the box from crower if anyone is interested

 

How much? And would you be willing to trade some ITR cams for them?

Thanks

 

So what are the performace gains that you will expect with these cams?

 

Has Crower fixed their cam breakage problem, cuz you know what happens when cams break? By the way, do their cams actually make horsepower cuz I heard the guy that designed the cams is totally hit and miss

eddie

 

As far as cam breakage -- Ive been using crower cams forever without problems, right now I use their 62405 all motor cams and have had no problems for the 15,000 miles Ive had them.

Screamer -- I like the pics of your hatch man, good job so far good luck with turbo. One thing though, the crower 62402T cam is for the non-vtec b18a, from the looks of it you have a gsr (or b16a). This cam will not work with your motor, it was made for the b18a and b18b.

 

Thanks, I know that thta cam is for non vtec, but they also have cams for vtec. When I called crower they said that the gains I should expect from their vtec cam are 17-40whp depending on the boost. Even if I did get only 17whp with their cam I think it should also produce a wider power band, and the 17whp extra won't hurt either.

So is there anyone out there that did try these or other turbo cams??? There must be someone.

 

Nice pics of your car! good luck with your decision.

 

Thanks, ttt

 

All cams can break. I have seen JUN, Skunks, Crower, Crane all break. It all depends if your mechanic is dumb enough to put a 400ft/lbs impact gun to your cam gear to tighten it down. Cams will break if you over torque them in some way shape or form. A shitty valve train can even contribute to comprimising the strength of the cam, hench a valve adjustment.

 

Of course that is true, but I know the factory cams can handle the abuse. The material of the factory cam is by far the best. I have seem people abuse factory cams and yet they don't break. I have seen people drop factory cams and they still seem to be OK. I would never encourage anyone to install dropped cams but I have seen it. Do you know if anyone makes cams from OEM quality cores?

Eddie

 

yes, but Crower VTEC cams break when you install them and break them in per their directions, which is how you would install/break in any other cam. Their VTEC valve train in general just sucks. A good friend's titanium Crower retainer split in two, wrecking his head and block. My cam breakage did the same. And worse yet, should you happen to have a failure, they won't do anything to compensate you. All this coming from a former Crower dealer no less - wonder why I say "former"?

 

to finish my thought on this, their non vtec stuff seems to hold up and work pretty well, and I've yet to see any of their cams break on a non vtec motor. Just had to specify VTEC - their non vtec stuff is actually pretty decent.

 

<--Uses stock camshafts with JG camgears. Dunno if its a rumor, but most people use stock camshafts for turbo car's because no one has been able to come out with a good camshaft. I think Crane makes one good turbo camshaft but you will need to use there valve terrain.

 

I've got all my compents together to upgrade my valve train. Just finding time to do it is the problem. I have a set of cutom cams from Web, i'll let you guys know how they work out. I've also got a crower spring/retainer kit. Anyone know the easiest way to replace the valve springs without pulling the head?

 

You could get a regrind but not sure how well they can remove the valve overlap.

 

Thanks, I will be waiting for your numbers let us all know.


So, based on the answers I am seeing here no one is running any aftermarket cams on their turbo setup. That sucks, I was really impresed when they told me that 17whp gain with crower turbo cams, but I would still love to see that on paper.

 

On that note, how do you remove overlap? Do you retard the intake cam and advance exhaust cam???

 

correct


[Modified by earl, 9:45 PM 7/8/2002]

 

Use a leakdown/compression tester. Just keep the cylinders pressurized and the valves will stay shut--well, as long as you have good compression.

 

thank you!!!

 

Yup just got finished with 75% of my work last night. Myself, and along with my dad and best friend got all the valve springs changed and the cams in. While they were doing that I was swapping out my LS oil pump for a B20 oil pump. I could have had more than that done, but I had to make an hour trip to pick up an inch-lb torque wrench to toque the cam journal bolts down. (84 inch-lbs). This afternoon i've got a few things to touch up, like the oil pan, my oil return fitting is leaking so it'll get the JB weld treatment. Then it's just a matter of bolting all the stuff back together.

 

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

Welp it's all bolted back together. Oil pan is on. Downpipe, timing belt, and all the other stuff that comes with tearing apart the top half of your engine. I got a late start, so by the time I finished everything up it was 12:00. So I set the valve lash, re-greased the cams and went to bed. All that I lack is to start it up and properly break in the cams. Then i'll be ready to rock the house with a boosted, 8k turnin Ls engine.


[Modified by Speed PHreak, 2:38 PM 7/12/2002]