Cross-threaded block port fitting (water line install)
Ok guys, a few weeks back I was wokring on hooking up my turbo water lines. Im using the B&R Kit with the -6 block port fitting like this...

Removed the factory fitting and went to install this piece. As im installing I feel the fitting getting tight while it was still about 1/4" from the block. Immediately try to back it out but after a few turns it locks up. Cannot get the thing to loosen. Kinda paniced I grab a breaker bar to hopefully get this thing off and end up rounding the 16mm nut on the front of the fitting (and not because I slipped but because I was using so much force the softer aluminum actually just rounded inside the socket). So now im stuck with a cross-threaded, rounded off fitting.
Brian at B&R informed me that the fitting is 28mm x 1mm thread pitch and that the block has a steel insert that actually threads the fitting. So what do you suggest I do? My thoughts so far..
1. Try to remove the fitting somehow? Im lost on how to do it, since its locked up and rounded off now. I was thinking drill and tap but I dont even think they make a tap or even helicoil in that size. Also drilling worries me that aluminum will get into the block
2. See if someone can weld the gap to the block?
3. Try to use some type of gasket maker or JB weld to seal the gap
What do you guys think? Has this ever happened to anyone else?

Removed the factory fitting and went to install this piece. As im installing I feel the fitting getting tight while it was still about 1/4" from the block. Immediately try to back it out but after a few turns it locks up. Cannot get the thing to loosen. Kinda paniced I grab a breaker bar to hopefully get this thing off and end up rounding the 16mm nut on the front of the fitting (and not because I slipped but because I was using so much force the softer aluminum actually just rounded inside the socket). So now im stuck with a cross-threaded, rounded off fitting.
Brian at B&R informed me that the fitting is 28mm x 1mm thread pitch and that the block has a steel insert that actually threads the fitting. So what do you suggest I do? My thoughts so far..
1. Try to remove the fitting somehow? Im lost on how to do it, since its locked up and rounded off now. I was thinking drill and tap but I dont even think they make a tap or even helicoil in that size. Also drilling worries me that aluminum will get into the block
2. See if someone can weld the gap to the block?
3. Try to use some type of gasket maker or JB weld to seal the gap
What do you guys think? Has this ever happened to anyone else?
My friend recently did the exact same thing you did, went in funny so he started to back it out but he got lucky and it came out just just a few damaged threads. If I was you I would have someone Tig that in and be done with it...
I would have been happy to get it out with damaged threads, I should have realized there was a problem
sooner
. Brian at B&R even offered to replace the fitting at a discounted price (even though it is no fault of his,
to B&R for caring though) But a new fitting does me no good if I cant get this one out. Do you think someone could tig weld this while the block is still in the car? I am already planning on removing the turbo mani/turbo/dp/dump to get some more working space.
Last edited by dpetro1; Aug 18, 2010 at 05:10 AM.
I would have been happy to get it out with damaged threads, I should have realized there was a problem sooner
Brian at B&R even offered to replace the fitting at a discounted price (even though it is no fault of his,
to B&R for caring though) But a new fitting does me no good if I cant get this one out.
Do you think someone could tig weld this while the block is still in the car? I am already planning on removing the turbo mani/turbo/dp/dump to get some more working space.
Brian at B&R even offered to replace the fitting at a discounted price (even though it is no fault of his,
to B&R for caring though) But a new fitting does me no good if I cant get this one out. Do you think someone could tig weld this while the block is still in the car? I am already planning on removing the turbo mani/turbo/dp/dump to get some more working space.
The easiest way to get it out would be to get a cut off wheel and cut off the -6 male part of the fitting. Leaving you with a nice flat surface. Then weld a -10 or -12 hex bung on there.
also since the fittings is locked up real tight do you guys think i should just keep using leverage to break it free. is it safe to use an impact gun?
I'd cut your losses and weld the fitting to the block. What are you going to do when you get it out and the threads are trashed?
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true. i was kinda hoping that the block threads would be ok since they are steel and the fitting is aluminum
do you guys think i should try to close the gap between the fitting and the block? would that help make it easier to weld up?

also, tony, do you see the little lip around the block opening? could that possibly be the insert i was told about?
also, tony, do you see the little lip around the block opening? could that possibly be the insert i was told about?
Bro what is so hard about getting that out? I'm sure I could get it out with a nice set of pliers.. It might be best to try and tighten it then loosen it hoping it will break free. You could also drill it out and try to break it up so it doesn't damage the threads to bad..
definitely tried to tighten then loosen. the thing is LOCKED up. the hex head rounded off inside the socket from all the force. im afraid of drilling due to shavings getting in the block. i think welding it to the block seems like the best plan then ill need a new -6 welded to the fitting and i should be set.
i think i will cut the rest of the hex head off to make a flat face surface, then weld the fitting to the block, the weld a new -6 bung on the face of the fitting and still use it to feed the turbo
Man that sucks. I recommended welding it if the nipple threads were still good and it could function. The way it is now, I'd cut that f**ker out of there and get a new fitting from B&R. Then just plan on welding the fitting in so it doesnt matter if you ruin the threads on the block. Or like youre saying just weld a new bung. Up to you, not sure what will be easier or cheaper.
unfortunately i dont think i can. it woundn't come out when using the proper socket so i dont think channel locks will do it either. remember the problem is not that the head is mangled but that the threads inside the block are crossed up, locking the fitting in place. the head rounding was simply a result of the cross threading
use a small torch to heat the block around the fitting, then take one of those air duster cans or a co2 tank, hold it upside down, and blast the fitting... the heat should slightly expand the block around the fitting, and the cold should shrink the fitting, and maybe make it a bit easier to get it out... Its worked for me before so figure it may be worth a shot...
use a small torch to heat the block around the fitting, then take one of those air duster cans or a co2 tank, hold it upside down, and blast the fitting... the heat should slightly expand the block around the fitting, and the cold should shrink the fitting, and maybe make it a bit easier to get it out... Its worked for me before so figure it may be worth a shot...
Tony is right if you take it out the threads in the block will be worse then you started, just weld a new fitting on and call it a day
thanks for all the suggestions guys. gonna try to mess with it a little on Sunday. ill be sure to keep you updated.
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