after 3 days of reading posts after posts about crankcase pressure i am still confused, my build will be over 500whp and im worried it wont have the correct ventilation, i completely understand the extra valve cover breathers (and i have caried this out) but im soooo confused about the psv/black box system, im going to run a seperate tank for the VC and the block breathers, i cannot find anywhere (even on google images) a diagram and pics with the black box and the block and how you bypass it, i am going to be buying this...

http://www.spoolinperformance.com/tu...h-pi-1080.html

is this everything i need to bypass it or will i need to weld ect ect? pics will great on removing the box ect ect, i would look at mine but its being sleeved at this point, i want to get everything sorted in my head before the block comes back, cheers for reading

 

Here, most kits are setup like this.



Just becarefull with the smaller cans, they tend to overflow a lot.

 

two -10an off the valve cover should be suffecient for 500whp range. or two off the back of the block. I prefer the ones off the VC. my experience with the off the back of the block was alot of oil in th can even with anti-siphon fittings.

i would recomend two -12 off the front of vc for good measures and a nice box like the one above for proer ventilation

 

That doesnt look sleek at all haha.

 

remember if it is not recirculating it will probably fill up. our engines in good health or not pass alot of oil.

the endyne kit works at lower power levels, worked fine with my car at 540whp.

as long as it is recirculating.

the 2 off of the valve cover with the 2 drains going to the block are tried and true. work time and time again. really no need to try to reinvent the wheel as some have said.

 

Thats what she said

 

have you tried plugging the drain back and seeing what the oil looks like that gets blown into the catch can?

i wouldnt wanna put that **** back into my motor.

 

yeah drain back is a no no IMO. and I get maybe 1/16th of a qt of oil in my catch can in 3000 miles off the valve cover

 

i know what the oil looks like going back into the engine. it gets changed every event regardless.

and as far as a drainback being a nono, wow all the dyno pulls and 3 years worth of passes this engine has seen i guess means nothing.

have you ever twisted an engine to 11k running almost 150mph without a drain back? i have and my catch can filled every pass. since i have drained it back i have not had 1 issue.

i can see the arguement on a daily driven car, BUT, twisting an engine hard, at the track it will fill. and when there is no where for it to go, it will find its way onto your tire. but what do i know?

guess all the guys running t1 style cans with drain backs are having issues.

 

So can you just remove those 2 alan heads for a catch can setup instead of tapping a block for a b20? For the endyne system... or would tapping the valve cover be easier and have the same affect. i am running a bisket for a b20/v but drain back is baaaad

 

ya I can definitly see your point, I just assume its a daily driven car, but if its a track beast, then you are in the right

 

We do the b20's , and the b20/vtec setups a little differently. We really like to create a vacuum so it literally will pull pressure out of the block. I'll try to get some pics up of a custom can we did on a b20/vtec all motor car.

 

hey my is on the vc n i looked in the can my oil in it looks like its mixed with water.. whys that?
sorry for thread jack..

 

any open style catch can, with the hot air from the engine, will pull the cool moisture out of the cool air in the catch can. like a cold beer glass sweating.

 

cheers mate, thats exactly what i was after! i take it the big hole with nothing in is the oil filter housing? also that catch can that you have alll recomended looks very good value for, it has has 6 holes it it right. so the two big ones for the valve cover, 2 little ones for the back of the block, so what are the other 2 for, are they for the return your all going on about?if so where does the return go? Also the catch can i first stated will this be adequate for just the back of the block and then get a big one (like u all stated) for the VC?

thank you all for the fast replies!

 

ok sweet! that will help out a bunch with some pictures. i finished my build and then stumbled upon catch cans and pressure relief systems. I got super lost with this b20 setup. I understand how it works and what it does, its just how to set it up on a motor that did not originally come with a pcv system, except a small hole out of the valve cover

 

 

Keep in mind this was on an all motor setup so we didn't feel like the two big lines were needed , the pcv was hooked up to a vacuum source ( just like oem application ) .



The b20's don't use the black box at all, its blocked off, so you defiantly need to remove one of the big allan bolts to relieve crank case pressure, specially when doing a b20/vtec.

We make catch cans by the way , check out our site.

 

any reason for the front of the VC rather than the back?

 

Depends on the VC. Some VC's have the baffle in just the back(d-series). And I believe some B-Series VC's have the baffle in the front and back.

 

The baffling is over rated, we've done them in both spots, it really doesn't make a difference, you don't loose that much oil if its not placed in a baffle spot.

 

You cant pull pressure out of the block. Only reason for vacuum inside the crankcase is for cycling air through the system to reburn the HC's, and additional cooling. The system is always pulsating with the movement of the pistons.

Pressure is released only by being able to displace the volume of air the pistons displace at any moment through your hoses.

 

Well "pull" wasn't the rightward, but you can do different things to help relieve excess pressure besides just using a catch can. You can use the exhaust an get creative like that as well.

 

you absolutly can put a vacuum system on the crankcase and will pick up a few hp but its really just not worth the work and hastle of getting it right vs just a few good sized lines off the vc or back of block

 

Hi there,

I am just makign sure I understand your post fully. I myself have bought a T1 setup from Tony and I believe I will be running a drain back. Will this be unwise or unhealthy for the car? Is this something you should only execute on a race/track car? Please explain. Thanks in advance.