jadugartir

I just recently got my turbo B series running, and its been running a little hot. Ive been doing some things to resolve it, and ive been logging numbers that i think might be useful to some of you who are having similar issues.

To start off, let me give a little info about my build and why im running hot. Ive got a b16 head, sleeved 84mm gsr block. im running a precision 6267 turbo, with the compressor facing the right hand side of the car (passenger side in the USA) which is opposite of the way most people mount theirs. I did this to retain AC. Im running a half size dual core mishimoto radiator, with a 12 inch maradyne fan flowing 1550 CFM. it is mounted as a pusher due to space restirctions, so it is sandwiched between my intercooler and radiator. My intercooler is very large. it pretty much blocks everything. This is a BIG part of my problems. anyways, lets get to some numbers shall we. All of my numbers are from my s300.

Shortly after getting my build together, i drove it out to my local race track which is 50 miles away. Not to race, just for show. anyways, i was getting pretty hot on the way up there. 225 and i pulled over, let it cool off, and started blasting the heater. made it out to the track running at about 214. Drove home the same way, blasting the heat, for a constant 214.

Shortly thereafter, i replaced my thermostat, and refilled my radiator with just water and 1 bottle of water wetter. (i was running 5050 coolant mix before this, and i didnt drain the whole system, just the radiator and whatever i lost changing the thermostat.) I used a 170 degree thermostat from oreillys. At this point, after some driving around town, the highest i was logging was 208, with the heater off. Not a bad difference.

Next, i wanted to try to get below 200. I changed my mishimoto 12 inch fan (950CFM) for a maradyne 12 inch 225 watt fan (1550CFM) This got me down about 4 degrees, to 204 while driving around town, heater off.

The next thing i tried was lifting the hood with 1/2 inch spacers. This did not get me any decrease in coolant temps, however, it did give me a noticeable difference in IAT's. I had been getting 140+ degree temps before this, and 120+ after. My manifold is a ramhorn, which creates alot of heat. I had to line my hood with reflective material to keep it from getting damaged locally to the turbo manifold.

Hopefully this data will be useful to someone in a similar situation, and im still trying to reach my goal of sub-200 ECT's. I imagine a good tune once my car is done being broken in will probably help some.

Cheers!

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

pics will help..


how close is the turbine to the rad?

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

have you tried an oil cooler?

the fan...is it a pusher or a puller?
just because you mount it in the front of the radiator doesnt change teh direction the fan spinning, ya dig

LightningTeg

What vehicle? I'm having similar issues although only really on the highway. My intercooler is blocking the airflow to my radiator so on the highway it will creep up to 200 when my fan kicks on and drops the temps.

jadugartir

This is in a civic hatch. half size rad.

Oil cooler is probably my next move. Both of the fans i described were installed as pushers in front of the radiator, because there is no room behind the radiator. My intake tube is there, and the compressor side of my turbo is about an inch or two from the rad.

Here is a pic before the setup was complete, then afterwards when it is running. You cant see too well in the pictures i have, but the hot side of the turbo is on the opposite side from the radiator.

TravisBiggie

I never go half way on my temp gauge, 3/8th the most. My 3" wrapped downpipe is pretty much touching my half sized radiator, n also your intercooler is twice as big as mine. Kind of stumped here.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

mmmm. the oil cooler will help more with oil temps and to ensure there's a less likely chance of oil breakdown; not with the engine coolant temps that he's seeing.

He's done a lot of the good things, now the question is how the undercarriage of the car is. If it can't create a vacuum where the air in essence sucks in, it may be the last part of the problem he needs to solve. It looks like he really attacked this pretty well, so, like others, I'm trying to get more ideas on how he can get coolant temps down to the 190s..

After seeing the pictures, he may want to at least heat wrap the manifold and create a shroud for the radiator. I think these two ideas are going to help as well.

liam821

Like everybody else says I also recommend an oil cooler and I would block off the other side where there is no radiator which will force more air through the radiator. Also heat wrap the manifold and downpipe.

checkout this thread, some good ideas to help with heat: https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/roadracing-half-rads-ducting-3043723/

jadugartir

Travis, my cluster gauge is in the normal spot. slightly below halfway. s300 is reading above 200. Also, i havent tried a new coolant temp sensor. mine could be reading too high for all i know.

im definitely going to install cooling plate on top, then ill post numbers, and a oil cooler after that. Ive got to find out from the shop that made my manifold if they will still guarantee it if i wrap it. if so then ill do that too. Ill be sure to post the data after each mod that i do.

Thanks for the suggestions all.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

as for the shroud for the radiator, i made one at of a 13x13x2 (have to trim it down) cake pan. but my fan is in the engine bay so im unsure how your going to achieve this







i also have foam pads on all four corners to prevent rubbing on the radiator
just an idea you can do if you dont want to spend the crazy amount of money for a shroud

roller3804

I know you said it wasn't tuned? Is it running a little lean? Could be causing higher temps..
What about a small hood vent right above the manifold?

DelSolMarine

Get a SPAL 13" "puller" fan... i fit one on my car with a 6265 Ramhorn AC Manifold setup and I am using the same radiator as you...

and then modify your intake to fit...

BTW you do not even need a shroud...

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Airflow is key, also with sleeve block bleeding is your friend and it take a while to get all the air bubbles out. Do not put a shroud if the fan s mounted as a pusher. Direct airflow to the radiator with sheet metal and be sure there isn't any obstructions. Air follows the path of least resistance so make it go through you radiator. Also heat wrap that manifold and downpipe and turbo blanket the hot side helps huge with heatsoak also put heat deflector between manifold and radiator.

92TypeR

Ceramic coating the inside and outside of the manifold/dp/wg dump will help reduce the radiant heat around the radiator area.

Additionally, a thin aluminum heat-shield between the radiator and manifold will help.

If none of the suggestions thus far make a difference, you can always option for a shorter core intercooler. Not an ideal fix, but would significantly increase airflow to the radiator.

hussain-vtec

First thing first, In my car i used OEM factory thermostat Fan Always on with the Ignition Key on Its not Automatic as befor, the key for Perfect ECT, ECT 183 to 191 most of the time 185,Get it tuned and your good to go.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

The car should not have to stay cool with the aid of a radiator fan unless in traffic. The car should stay cool when driving without the fan running, that's terrible advice, if fan fails car overheats.

hussain-vtec

Never have problems like i mention earlier all the cars i tuned is seems to like
it, it stays 185F wile driving, and if the fan fails it fails in Normal Automatic setup or same setup i am going with, And its a perfect advise it will tell you where the problems are.

Ask the tuners.

Cheers

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Yes you can run a fan 100% of the time to keep it running cooler but thats not the correct way to do it. I am a tuner and i know what needs to be done to correct a problem like that. The key to a properly running cooling system is volume of coolant and airflow. Seeing that the OP is running a small radiator volume is an issue more natural airflow is key. Im personally running a half core radiator in my DC2 chassis as this is all i have room for at the moment. In texas heat my car runs 188-198 without a cooling fan on. I also have complete a/c system still in tack and a huge FMIC blocking the whole opening of the bumper, so why is it that my car runs normal temps without a fan but your saying run a fan 100% of the time to keep it cool? Answer is Directed airflow to the radiator.

Ive had customer cars with this same issue as the OP and it always get corrected with thermal breaking (heat wrap, coating manifold and dp and turbo, heatshields) and directed airflow to the radiator and proper radiator positioning

Granted I could turn my fan on and run it 100% of the time and my car would run cooler but why wear out a fan when the car is staying within proper operating temps ?

th3pwn3r

As mentioned some header wrap is a good idea. If I was in your position I'd probably start chopping up the bumper and making duct work to direct air flow to the radiator and block.

batboyvaj

Bumper mods was what I had to do to stay cool. I made vents right above where the fmic sits to allow air to flow over into the radiator. Try running with your bumper off to see if solves your issue.

roller3804

That's definitely a good call!

speedjunkie_g35

2x

hussain-vtec

What Ever you Think guys!
you have your way & have my way, every one is thinking from an angel,
Thanks for info Too we learn from each other But i can't force people for my opinion.
And i don't give a bad advice i am driving my civic like the setup i mention from 2008 until now problems free, what i want to say is before giving any advice i test it first and its working 100%.

I Think the one who make the Clutch fan is stupid because its always on.

Any way here is a good with Clutch fan on 100% all time links below it may help i am out.

http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced...omparison.html

http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine%2...20Cooling.html

Running the same setup Fan 100% on with Ignition key on.
B20 stock sleeves 84mm 728hp @ 31psi OEM Rad 9.31 @ 163mph / The fastest & Quickest SFWD in the Middle East


Link of the make Enjoy.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/new-p-p-middle-east-record-2711861/

bcumbie

I would also suggest looking into the Spal 13" fan. I recently put one on my turbo gsr and it def. helped out alot. Be sure to wire it correctly and with a relay as it pulls more amps then most fans.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

I read through the thread, and didnt see anybody suggest this.....

If you have a 1/2 size radiator, and the other side ( In front of the turbo) Is wide open, then the air could be rushing through the open gap on the turbo side, and not going through the radiator.

If you look at civic's that come with an oem 1/2 radiator, they have a block off panel on the other side, closing the huge gap that would normally be filled with a full size radiator so the air is forced through the radiator instead of being allowed to rush around it.

You could just take a piece of sheet metal/stailess sheet, and tack it in place in front of the turbo on the rad support closing that gap, so the air is forced through the radiator.