There are plenty of turbo B series running a 2 row half rad. I dont think my skunk2 radiator is causing my coolant system to over pressurize or preemptively release pressure. Like i said after getting no bubbles during the leakdown test all i have left to test is if removing the interference between the radiator cap and the hood changes anything.

 

I feel like youve had the answer, being the head is lifting and or the gasket is compromised from head lift and is slowly getting worse.

 

I tend to agree, I just felt that you may have needed to confirm with some covered bases, making sure that the funnel and other areas were clean before the test

It's like going into surgery to repair a leg in an operating room surrounded by dirt and muck and you're saying that the infection you found was caused by some dirt in the leg, but you don't know that because your operating instruments were contaminated by the dirt in the field.

That was all. I tend to agree with LightningTeg here based upon this and your other "symptoms" and not focusing on the qualitative value of the parts themselves.

 

Listen. I'm an *** when it comes to Forced Induction admittedly; really because it's a passionate portion of my life's endeavors and have literally created part of a career around it.

When it comes to consultation or even just an interesting discussion, we all throw on our diagnostic "hats" to try to either give advice or help out, or consciously observe the issue, or.. whatever you want to call it. We all use our personal experiences, observations of other people and their projects, things we've read online (dangerously for the most part) and other media to get our brains to wrap around everything that is "automotive". It's no different than looking at the human body; there are signs, symptoms, clues, etcetera that we have to use in order to hopefully find a solution to the problem.

But over the years of being on this and many other forums, I've found that using a number of pleasantries when it comes to narrowing down the issues just doesn't work; It's great when things go well, and it sucks when things don't.

I love to solve the puzzle,and as long as it's solved, I guess that's what matters, without any ego. I have become increasingly abrasive because in this day and age, no one has time for spoon-fed guesses and B.S: we must get to the point of the matter and be as clear grammatically and logically as we can;

I do respect everyone here, and with that respect means that I tend to put you guys at a higher level of thinking than the other forums, just as you would me, (which is why I don't go to many of the others). So, that usually means that some of you have to "cowboy up" by accessing your parietal lobes a little deeper to hone your critical thinking skills, no matter if the idea that results from it be right or wrong , and if doing that means that doing so doesn't involve the most pleasant experience with warm and fuzzy feelings, then it's best not to get involved at all. As long as we don't over-obsess with any critiques that we give one another, I think better results are created from it.

So, for those that may feel intimidated or feel threatened or whatever, that's not my intent; really. I'd love to have a beer with all you guys at some time in the future. But, I won't apologize for being quick, clear, and as concise as I can if I'm of any use to anyone. And if that means I push aside all the monkey-business and can do it in a way that is clear, so be it.

Tony-the-Tiger is much better at the emphirical information dissemination than I am. But he is just as meticulous and cynical as I am. He's just nicer about it.

I'm done. Let's get back to good smiles and hope that this headgasket issue gets solved. k?

 

Yea Im just going to do studs and a new oem gasket in the next 2 weeks. I will update after the install.

 

Hows it look?

 

Cylinder #2 on the intake side, towards the bottom?

 

i noticed that, but it seems whats missing on the gasket on #2 is stuck to the block deck.

 

Idk, it could have been so minimal it didnt remove much. What you see in the coolant being those little specs. I'm expecting to see the same thing. Check block and head for flatness, new gasket maybe copper spray?

 

I've got ARP Head studs and a new oem honda gasket. I used a precision straight edge and everything is in spec and flat. I'm hesitant to use the copper spray as I've heard mixed reviews, especially when using it with an oem honda gasket. I'm open to hear anyone's first hand experience with it.

 

I've used it twice without issue.

 

I've never used an OEM headgasket without copper spray for 18 years. And I'm a circuit runner.

 

Im assuming this is the stuff you guys are recommending?

Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp Adhesive Sealant (10 oz) 80697: Advance Auto Parts

 

Some times it is something simple. Have you tried just taking the T-stat out altogether and just running the car under your same test without the thermostat installed and see what the results are? I have been doing this awhile myself (working on cars) and plenty of times new parts do not work or not work as well as they should. It won't cost you anything and will not take much time to do.

 

I don't recommend that course of action. We used to do that a lot in Barbados, thinking it was similar to the iron block Toyota motors we had around when that are notorious for cooling issues. On Honda aluminum blocks I've found that it just made a potentially a bad situation worse. The expansion of gallery was just worse with the increased heat, and no way to cycle in cool coolant.. Especially in aluminum blocks like these.

Again, I've worked on cars but I'm not a certified technician , just from some experience with these blocks va, the iron blocks where we've tried that approach.

That's just me, though..

 

I understand, I was just saying to just test it not run it that way all the time. But even under those temporary conditions if it is going to cause a problem than obviously don't do that OP lol. I along with others have used that in trouble shooting DSM's 4G63 motors back in the day and it was fine. But like you said...

 

Thats what I used on my gasket, My headgasket looked just like yours missing that black coating in some areas

 

Its all back together now.






It would seem the pressurization issue is resolved. The overflow bottle was holding steady and returning back after cool down as normal. With 85 degree outside temp the car ran 204-208 at 75mph 4200rpm. In the mid 190's around town and slow back roads (45mph) with the fan on.