So I have a 38mm wastegate.
I was using a tial 7.25psi spring and all was fine. I was actually hitting like 7.5 but whatever.

Well I still wanna stay there but I want to control it with my profec e01. So I bought a 4psi spring.

Installed the spring.
And wham over boost. Like the gate didn't open at all.

The spring feels fine and has less tension than my bigger one. It's just a spring. Why might I be having these issues?

(Currently I'm just running the wastegate. I wanted to confirm psi before I messed with the ebc)
I'm running a longer vacuum line from the manifold than before. And it's ran just like the other was righ to the bottom port with the top port vented.

I'm at a loss.

 

I see everyone says I'm supposed to run a line from the turbo but I don't have a port there. In any event it was working just fine like this on the other spring..

 

Post a pic of how the lines are from the ebc solenoid

And a drawing of how you have it to the wastegate top and bottom port

You can also use a compressor and add air to the line going to the ebc from the intake manifodl and the ebc solenoid should start clicking. That would confirm the solenoid is working and wired correctly

If i remember right its bottom port of wastegate to im

Top goes to solenoid nc. Then the comm of the solenoid goes to intake manifold

 

The E-01 solenoid is a Denso solenoid that doesn't really "click" like on the MAC and other industrial solenoids. The port layout is a tiny bit different but, ensuring that you have the initial settings performed on the E-01 is crucial.

You don't need to have the line that is being used as a boost reference source be on the compressor cover as any instructions indicate. Using the intake manifold as the source is actually a more reliable source than the compressor cover itself.

(In your case, the "NC" port needs to be at the intake manifold for the best pressure source, but you also want to use the supplied "Y" connector to go to side part of the wastegate. The "COM" port needs to be at the top of the wastegate.)

Unlike some of the other GReddy Boost controllers, this one actually can be controlled based upon RPM. But the Pressure sensor that is included in that system needs to be pointed downward, and not just in any direction.. So watch out.

Finally, It's best to set this controller to AUTO mode so that it is self-learning the best boost curve, if you're just trying to install and go. If it's set to manual mode, that makes things a little more complicated for you.

If you decide to use manual mode, You need to make sure that you're not setting "start boost" too close to your target boost level of 7.25psi (if you're using a 4psi spring). You want to use "GAIN" to close the gap to your target boost pressure. So, for example, use the START BOOST to get to about 6.5psi, then creep up "Gain" to reach 7psi. This is best done in 3rd or 4th gear and not full throttle at 2nd gear to get this right. But this is why AUTO mode is much more desired.

You have to practice at this on some open road, as it won't be instant. But this is how you typically set these types of controllers.

 

Also, words like "START BOOST" and "GAIN" aren't the most familiar to people who are not used to GReddy or HKS EBC nomenclature. "START BOOST" isn't the point where positive pressure actually BEGINS.. It's the setting used to alter solenoid actuation. "Gain" helps with the response feature of the solenoid, and changes the finer points of boost control.

It takes some getting used to, but its a VERY solid system for the unlazy...

 

I've been doing a ton of reading on it, and it seems pretty remarkable.
I did some testing today and for some reason it just must be the 4psi spring I'm using.
I put my tial .5 bar spring it (ebc bypassed) and hit right on the mark.
Then put the 4psi spring in and spiked all the way to ******* 18psi. Only different was the two springs. This just doesn't make sense to me. It's just a spring.
For the waste gate to just not even open like that boggles my mind.
So unfortunately until I get a good spring, my e01 is just a really sweet boost gauge.

When you say the solenoid needs to be upside down. Do you mean for example the middle of the T pointing towards the ground? Right now I have it mounted so the top of it is up. Just as in where is says "greddy boost solenoid" is facing upward.

I've read that it is very hard for an ebc to make minute changes? Is this true? Could I use the ebc to run 8psi off my 7.5 spring?

I really want to use the auto mode and let it adjust the boost curves and utilize a lot of the cool features it has.

 

The E-01s fuzzy logic is very sensitive to setting changes. We had a customer install one on his S14 after we put an SR in it and he didn't know how to set it up properly and wound up running his GT2860R to a peak of like 34psi and smoked the cartridge and this was just on a simple IWG setup. Naturally he blamed us for the turbo failing.

Do you have an air compressor? Pull the gate off, put the 4psi spring in it, and apply air pressure to the bottom port. That's the best way to test the spring. If the spring isn't seated right or you pinch the diaphragm during reassembly it can prevent the gate from opening properly.

Also TiAL revised their spring pressure chart and springs so it's possible you looked at the old chart and simply bought the wrong spring.

 

I said pressure sensor needs to be upside down, not solenoid.. Two different items.

Check your manual.

As want boost stated, you may have pinched your diaphragm changing springs. That can cause boost spikes very easily.

You can not just change springs and keep the same start boost settings.. Doesn't work like that.

Minute changes are exactly what this boost controller is made for.. But if you don't know what you're doing and only sinking the instructions without subtle changes to throttle, it can get out of control real fast.

We've been using these style controllers for years.. I've found that in the last few, more and more Honda users have difficulty understanding it's methods.... No other platform seems to have as much difficulty understanding..

 

To the OP: It's a problem that can be easily caught with a simple pressure test at the lower WG port. I would just spend a few minutes to bench test it and you will have all the answers. All you need is two pieces of vacuum line, an old boost gauge and a bicycle pump / shop air.

If the boost controller is completely out of the equation, the other possible causes are pretty much common sense though.

- Can't you feel that the 4 PSI spring is stiffer or softer when you swapped it in?

- Pinched diaphragm? Assuming you know how to install it on the other spring, I doubt that's the problem

- Spring bind? Did you use the incorrect length spring that greatly reduces valve travel?

 

I really appreciate all the help and educated responses guys helps a ton.
As for now the ebc isn't hooked up. I'm on a b20 with a modest tune I don't want to push too hard on this motor with the 57 trim I have.

Sorry I mistakenly read wrong and thought you said solenoid. My manual did say to mount it upside down. Now I have it horizontal I will switch it.

As for right now though the ebc is not Hooked up.

My weird issue is the wastage.

So with my tial spring. Everything is perfect.

Swap in my (cheap) 4psi spring and the wastegate doesn't even open.

The spring heights are the same, and what is really bugging me is when I compress them by hand the 4psi does feel softer than my tial 7psi.

So that's why it just doesn't make sense, I swapped them out back and forth a couple times and always the same result. Right now I have the tial in and it works perfect so I don't think it's an issue with the diaphragm.

But you're all right. I just need to bench test it.

How do I regulate to make sure the wg only sees 4psi from my compressor?


Thanks again guys. When I get this spring issue figured out I'll definitely need help with the ebc too

 

A regulator after the compressor.

 

Makes sense then just open it all the way at once? Or slowly leak the pressure?

 

Set your regulator to the psi you want then with an air gun at the end of the hose feed the air into the compressor

Yes air will leak out. All you are doing is making sure your valve is opening.

I

 

Take off the boost controller to just run the 4psi spring.. Going that low doesn't require the controller at all..

Don't use this controller thinking that you can have fun with it at stock spring pressure.. It's to control increased pressure...not the stock

 

For sure.
I may not have been explaining myself correctly.

I wanted to use the 4psi spring to run .5 bar via the ebc.

I didn't think I'd get much if any tuning capability running a .5 bar spring and trying to tune .5 bar on the wastegate. Doesn't make any sense that way.

I was running strictly off the wastegate at .5 bar.

So I wanted to swap in the .25/4psi spring and tune the ebc for its boost curves and all that.

And to recap here's the run down.

Car hits and holds .5 bar perfect on tial spring.

Put .25 bar spring in. Car over boost.

Put .5 bar spring back in. Works as it should.

I'm not even touching the ebc until I can confirm the boost is being handled by the wastegate the way it should.

Both springs physically look identical. Same height and everything. When I compress them by hand. The 4psi spring is much softer.
So that's why I'm stumped. If it looks identical and feels the way it should. How can it just not be opening.
But sure enough as soon as I put the .5 bar spring in it works great.

So now my other thought is **** it, I'll just run .5psi more off the 7.5psi spring so I can tune the ebc. .5psi doesn't really effect much I wouldn't imagine.

I just wasn't sure how well the ebc would handle tuning for only .5psi more than the wastegate. Plus I wanted to use the boost limiter feature where I can hit a peak and it will slowly subtract boost.
There is so many sweet features on my ebc and being so close to wastegate pressure I didn't think I'd be able to utilize it as much

 

Did you take the waste gate yet?

Lets focus on ine thing at a time.

Everyone else understands what youre doing dont let shodan confuse you.

 

I haven't tested it yet, I don't have a safe way to regulate the pressure off my air compressor. I may try to get a manual bike pump or something with a gauge. I need to put that smaller spring back in as well, like I said on the 7.5 spring. Everything is fine. So I'll be curious what the "4psi" spring is actually opening at.

 

You said "cheap" spring. Is it not a genuine TiAL spring? If not that's likely your problem.

What color paint is on the spring?

I have a few TiAL 35/38 springs I'm not using, can't remember what color they are but I can dig them up and look. If one is low enough you're welcome to use it.

 

Your air compressor *should* already have a regulator on the output.

 

This

 

Found my springs. That didn't take long lol.

I have a small green and a small red, here's the old chart for the F38. I'm assuming whoever you got the springs from went off this.



If you have a set of calipers compare your spring measurements with mine.

Small Red

1.875" (47.6mm) O.D.
1.57" (40mm) I.D.
3.20" (81mm) or so free height
.14" (3.6mm) wire diameter

Small Green

1.875" (47.6mm) O.D.
1.57" (40mm) I.D.
3.38" (85-86mm) or so free height
.15" (3.9-4.0mm) wire diameter

At least one or both of these are genuine TiAL springs, actual operating pressure known to match the chart specifications

 

I hate to admit. But yes my 4psi spring is a shitty cheap eBay spring. But my .5 bar spring was sold to me by a local tuning shop and they claimed it was a 5psi spring.
It looks just like a tial and the way they kind of paint it red.
That being said the "tial" spring hits .5 bar on the money and holds it like a champ so I just chalked that up to them selling me the wrong spring.

I may just buy a new 4psi genuine tial spring after I test both of these on the compressor.

Thanks again guys

 

All they do is just hit the spring with some spray paint.

What color paint is on your spring?
If you measure the free length and wire diameter of your 4psi spring and compare it to my measurements you'll get a good idea of if the spring rate is in the ballpark.

The lower psi spring should be shorter than 3.25" and have a wire diameter smaller than .14"

 

Really, this is not going to allow you to really enjoy the benefits of this boost controller even if you're using a proper TiAL 4psi (.27Bar) spring to get to 7psi. The reason is that unless the turbocharger is VERY small, you're not even at effective compressor/turbine wheel speed and pressures to make use of any of the boost response and other features.

The boost pressure limiters can be used, but unless you're starting to increase boost pressures, (you didn't state which turbocharger or even size you're using) you won't see a bit difference.

 

My tial is just a normal looking spring hit with a streak of red. Looks just like a tial. But it's hitting 7.5 psi, it looks like it should be a 5psi spring according to their chart.


i have a t3/4 57 trim.

I guess that makes when you talk about the spin of the turbo.
Really I just want to be able to select my boost and control it and enjoy some of the cool features. Even if I don't get it to its potential it'll still get the job done. Disappointing but it'll still work, I'll play with that once I get the wastegate spring issue figured out