Compressor wheel nut -Keeps coming off
Well this one has me a little baffled -
2 turbos same failure within 25 miles
Compressor nut comes off and catastrophic failure
setup - t3/t4
non intercooled
7 psi boost
stock LS
-3 an oil feed line
Nothing out of the ordinary
1st turbo was an e-bay one (assumed that was the problem)
2nd was a garett
1st one was took apart and shaft was blue and broken - sign of oil starvation
oil is feeding through line and seems fine, is it possible the 3an line is too small?
Has anyone else seen the compressor nut back off like this and what caused it?
need some help here dont want to toast another one
2 turbos same failure within 25 miles
Compressor nut comes off and catastrophic failure
setup - t3/t4
non intercooled
7 psi boost
stock LS
-3 an oil feed line
Nothing out of the ordinary
1st turbo was an e-bay one (assumed that was the problem)
2nd was a garett
1st one was took apart and shaft was blue and broken - sign of oil starvation
oil is feeding through line and seems fine, is it possible the 3an line is too small?
Has anyone else seen the compressor nut back off like this and what caused it?
need some help here dont want to toast another one
Not on a Garrett, especially since they are reverse-threaded. No one is molesting the turbocharger before installation are they? Are you sure there are no contaminates in the oil, or that the oil sending unit isn't obstructed in some way
both were reverse threaded - oil feed line seems fine - I usually put 4an lines on them with no restrictor - this customer supplied the lines and they were 3an - i am wondering if its not an oil problem and it it locking the turbine up at high speeds and causing it to spin the shaft in the compressor wheel - the garett was new out of the box too.
Thoughts - ideas????
Thoughts - ideas????
For Hondas, -3AN w/ no restrictor is fine. are I/C pipes poping off while driving at higher pressures? This is a leading cause of instant failure. It could also be that the engine is trying to save itself with his "high speeds" and is not getting oil to certain areas. The turbo will be first to be sacrificed. Make sure there is clean oil at the correct levels, the oil pump is operating correctly, and any oil relocation kits are circulating oil correctly. Sounds like something is wrong in this equation. Your oil system needs to be inspected.
On the turbo, ensure that no loctite or contaminants have entered the oil feed. Eliminate all oil feed line "filters", so that the oil is straight from the oil sending unit. Is this where the oil feed line is connected?
On the turbo, ensure that no loctite or contaminants have entered the oil feed. Eliminate all oil feed line "filters", so that the oil is straight from the oil sending unit. Is this where the oil feed line is connected?
yeah its straight off the sending unit - Pipes are not blowing off holding around 7psi and wastegate is actuating properly. Its a non-intercooled setup so there is a sort run on the piping and the blowoff is working properly too. after cranking the engine over the feed line does not really flow very much oil volume (the 4 an ones i have done will dump a quart in no time) at starter rpms it barely would do a pimt in 30 sec (estimated) -seems very slow - oil pump is working fine everywhere else - honestly could it be a defective/too restrictive line. locking the turbine shaft down at high speeds and just letting the compressor wheel continue to spin thus spinning the nut off
This ones got me and i really am not sure - i am thinking about just putting the 4 an lines on it - i really dont want to kill another charger - there has to be a reason
This ones got me and i really am not sure - i am thinking about just putting the 4 an lines on it - i really dont want to kill another charger - there has to be a reason
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Sounds like it could be compressor surge that turns the compressor wheel on the shaft and thus the bolt manages to turn open and game over. I saw pictures of this happening to a turbocharger made in belarus...but that was running way more than 7psi boost.
gtfo if your not going to help, nothing funny about this situation.
EDIT: nevermind i misread, sorry
wow, you clown on the one guy who is actually trying to help, i am sure you know more than shodan, so please, bless us with your interpretation of the problem.
EDIT: nevermind i misread, sorry

wow, you clown on the one guy who is actually trying to help, i am sure you know more than shodan, so please, bless us with your interpretation of the problem.
Last edited by blinx9900; Feb 22, 2009 at 04:08 PM.
First question, are you drunk? Hahaha....
The guy you just told off, also happens to be the thread starter and is also the guy asking for help.
"rfl", is referring to the TurboXS RFL BOV... He was answering Shodan's question..... Just pointing that out for you; I knew it was a misunderstanding.
The guy you just told off, also happens to be the thread starter and is also the guy asking for help.
"rfl", is referring to the TurboXS RFL BOV... He was answering Shodan's question..... Just pointing that out for you; I knew it was a misunderstanding.
First question, are you drunk? Hahaha....
The guy you just told off, also happens to be the thread starter and is also the guy asking for help.
"rfl", is referring to the TurboXS RFL BOV... He was answering Shodan's question..... Just pointing that out for you; I knew it was a misunderstanding.
The guy you just told off, also happens to be the thread starter and is also the guy asking for help.
"rfl", is referring to the TurboXS RFL BOV... He was answering Shodan's question..... Just pointing that out for you; I knew it was a misunderstanding.




on me...
ok update:
Customer had supplied oil lines for this job. After inspection of everything and it looking ok - took line off again and took a closer look - i took a peice of plastic tubing typically used on boost gauges, the OD of it is .125" - thats -2an - it should slide right into a -3an with noooo problem - WRONG - it would go up to the crimp and stop - so i cut the line and the id of the hose is only about 3/32 inside - not even -2an.
with that being said tell me if this sounds correct:
at high speeds the shaft was locking up(due oil starvation) and the wheel kept turning enough to back the nut off - turbo 1 had the shaft broken too and it def was blued inside badly.
Opinions on this please.
Customer had supplied oil lines for this job. After inspection of everything and it looking ok - took line off again and took a closer look - i took a peice of plastic tubing typically used on boost gauges, the OD of it is .125" - thats -2an - it should slide right into a -3an with noooo problem - WRONG - it would go up to the crimp and stop - so i cut the line and the id of the hose is only about 3/32 inside - not even -2an.
with that being said tell me if this sounds correct:
at high speeds the shaft was locking up(due oil starvation) and the wheel kept turning enough to back the nut off - turbo 1 had the shaft broken too and it def was blued inside badly.
Opinions on this please.
What you're describing there is something clogged in there. It should be pouring a good amount of oil out of a 3AN line.
Looks like the oil line is the culprit - luckily this one didnt kill the garret it just spun off and that was it - i will inspect it and make sure its fine - anything else i should look for to possibly cause this situation?
oh - rfl - easily confused with rofl - i rofl'd when i read that - actually broke up some of the tension lol
oh - rfl - easily confused with rofl - i rofl'd when i read that - actually broke up some of the tension lol
I would switch the line to a true -3AN SS line, and appropriately charge your customer the cost as opposed to just an inspection of the same crap lines.. This way the problem is actually solved, and your customer can concentrate on other areas of the car.
Rule of thumb. If a customer supplies parts that are not of typical standard for them, check these parts thoroughly prior to installation. That way you can help nip some of these problems in the bud, from the beginning.
Rule of thumb. If a customer supplies parts that are not of typical standard for them, check these parts thoroughly prior to installation. That way you can help nip some of these problems in the bud, from the beginning.
I would switch the line to a true -3AN SS line, and appropriately charge your customer the cost as opposed to just an inspection of the same crap lines.. This way the problem is actually solved, and your customer can concentrate on other areas of the car.
Rule of thumb. If a customer supplies parts that are not of typical standard for them, check these parts thoroughly prior to installation. That way you can help nip some of these problems in the bud, from the beginning.
Rule of thumb. If a customer supplies parts that are not of typical standard for them, check these parts thoroughly prior to installation. That way you can help nip some of these problems in the bud, from the beginning.
Yes Valuable lesson learned and thanks very much for all of the help/advice - everyone was very helpful on this!!
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